Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

David K wrote: It's called a passive placement, and some cams are rated for them.

In practice, I've never seen a place where a passively placed cam was a better option than an actively placed cam or a nut, including that screenshot. Spring force keeps an actively-placed cam in place better than a passively placed cam, and wedging keeps a passively-placed nut in place better than a passively placed cam.

Look at the picture again, the cam is in a downwards flare, textbook bad placement  and absolutely will rip on any sizeable fall and not work as a passive placement. Yes c4s are rated for passive placements but that is where there is a constriction downwards and/or outwards, this placement has neither.

This placement is bad, especially with better placements all around. 

Jesus, guys, did you read my post or did you just quote it and respond without reading it? I said that in practice passively placed cams are generally a bad idea, including that screenshot. I was replying to JonReg's asking "It might hook the rock and hold that way?" That's a passive placement. And yes, obviously it's a bad placement.

I suspect the person placing the cam didn't even intend to place it passively, so even if the cam would work as a passive placement, they don't get credit for it.

Anyone else get bugged by the incessant talking?  I've got a friend that'll yak the whole time he leads something and I always tell him the goal for the day is for him to climb quietly.  He can't ever comply.

Also, once again.....DIRECTION OF PULL!!! 

zoso wrote: Anyone else get bugged by the incessant talking?  I've got a friend that'll yak the whole time he leads something and I always tell him the goal for the day is for him to climb quietly.  He can't ever comply.

Also, once again.....DIRECTION OF PULL!!! 

I wondered if he was doing that for the camera-- or if he does that all the time. The announcement that he's at a stance, going to place gear, followed by "clipping...... clipped" is like nails on a chalkboard. 

SethG wrote:

I wondered if he was doing that for the camera-- or if he does that all the time. The announcement that he's at a stance, going to place gear, followed by "clipping...... clipped" is like nails on a chalkboard. 

didn't stay for the whole show, BUT he placed that purple cam straight in but when he's above it and looking down, its placed at 45'. not sure why/how, but perhaps he actually corrects the placement before getting above it?

I feel like I've seen WAY worse out there. annoying? sure. but if everyone who annoyed me was unsafe.....id be the only climber out there.....

Eric Roe wrote:Check out how he slings his hexes @ 8:40

https://youtu.be/ixmAmiI4R94

They are slung that way so you can extend them, correct?

Also, the hex placement at 10:45, am I wrong that was super sketchy?

michael brooks wrote:

https://youtu.be/ixmAmiI4R94

They are slung that way so you can extend them, correct?

Also, the hex placement at 10:45, am I wrong that was super sketchy?

I'm a trad novice but I wouldn't have put that hex right above such a huge flare. 

Ross Goldberg wrote: youtube.com/watch?v=3OHikq7…

Quality content right here, check out the green cam in the begging

Are you talking about at 1:35 (EDIT: I just saw JohnReg and Matt B's replies below Ross')? The cam appears to be completely tipped out/umbrella-ed, this is undercammed, correct?

the only thing wrong to do on open book is to take a huge dump in your underpants on p3, only 30 feet away from the end of the climb, and then leave it there for Tradiban to have to come along and clean up 5 months later. since these guys didnt do that, they are good in my book.

also open book rulez, all other 5.9s drool

michael brooks wrote:

this is undercammed, correct?

correct

michael brooks wrote:

https://youtu.be/ixmAmiI4R94

They are slung that way so you can extend them, correct?

Also, the hex placement at 10:45, am I wrong that was super sketchy?

Those are dmm torque nuts and yes they are slung that way by the manufacturer so they can be extended.  That said most of those placements looked terrifying to me.

Already a thread on it, but it's...something else. (Fall at 14:55, bad placement at 12:49), honestly just another classic goprobro video

Totally classic vid. Engaging and suspenseful. Better than Free Solo. Two men pushed to the brink on the Regular Route of Fairview Dome (5.9).

Wow. That is pure gold. 23 hours to big wall climb, bivy, and jumar up the elusive "Fairfield" Dome. I want a feature length. Seriously the best climbing film I've ever seen.

Jesus that was painful to watch.

wow 8 hours to get to the top of pitch 4 is 2 hours a pitch with 12 to go and 5 hours of light . . . probly should've bailed especially since they had a haul line(!) the math wasn't in their favor

i mean i thought the bag was a little too big and hauling it seemed even sillier, but at their speed they should have gone for the whole 9 yards and gotten a haulbag and ledge

Abdullah M wrote: Runout not spicy enough for you? Try holding one cam in each hand for a little added flavor (@3:45).

This made my hands sweaty. How do you climb past so many good placements and settle on THAT?

Jesus, take the belay!