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Gopro-bro rips a bad piece and whips in Squamish

Original Post
Pugnacious Slab · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 371
See 12:50 . Some quality Sunday night entertainment ... "The thing i did not really inspect was the wiring on the top two lobes..you can see pretty obviously that it needs to be re-placed"
Cron · · Maine / NH · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 60

Gopro. Check.
Garbage placement. Check.
Pumped out on 5.8. Check.

It’s got all the ingredients boys.

alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

looks to me like the trigger is hung up... most obvious to me was direction of pull on the cam was not as down as it should be
 
seems to me there were other options for a placement as you know..but your gear  and belayer did catch you

extend those slings!

levered out?

the rope around the neck was the most disturbing to me...
 TFPU

very glad you are OK!

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
alpinist 47 wrote: looks to me like the trigger is hung up... most obvious to me was direction of pull on the cam was not as down as it should be
 
seems to me there were other options for a placement as you know..but your gear  and belayer did catch you

extend those slings!

levered out?

the rope around the neck was the most disturbing to me...
 TFPU

very glad you are OK!

MP user who thinks a video posted is made by and of the user that posted it... Check. 

chris blatchley · · woodinville, wa · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 6

i had to dig up the roadside attraction whipper video after this one. both are pretty great.

Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain · · Las Vegas, Nevada and Apple… · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 146

A lot of nit picking can be done on that video.
And, he sure needs to work on his jamming techniques.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5

I’ve always found the “red black diamond #2 camalot” to be a notoriously untrustworthy piece, I don’t even rack one anymore.

​Serious question: am I alone in cringing at the immediate batmanning back up the rope? It seems like a bad idea to put extra force on the top piece that just caught your fall without being able to check it first, especially knowing you’ve already had one piece pull?

Matt Simon · · Black Rock City · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 203
Em Cos wrote: I’ve always found the “red black diamond #2 camalot” to be a notoriously untrustworthy piece, I don’t even rack one anymore.

Serious question: am I alone in cringing at the immediate batmanning back up the rope? It seems like a bad idea to put extra force on the top piece that just caught your fall without being able to check it first, especially knowing you’ve already had one piece pull?

He did it because the rope was around his neck.

Em Cos · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 5
Matt Simon wrote:

He did it because the rope was around his neck.

Still wondering about it in a general sense. 

Fredrik Ehne · · Stockholm, Sweden · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

On the other hand, it evidently just held a much bigger load. 

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Cosmiccragsman AKA Dwain wrote: A lot of nit picking can be done on that video.
And, he sure needs to work on his jamming techniques.

Especially his finger jams.  I think that one section would have given him way less trouble if he’d tried thumbs down.

Roadside dude was way worse.  Guy legitimately almost died and high fived his partner. 
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

I've done Calculus Direct-- kind of surprising he made it through the tricky bit right at the start and then kept right on struggling through all of the easy parts afterwards. Am I not remembering it right? GoPro footage can be misleading, makes things look steeper than they are. As I recall, after the first bit up the corner to the right of the bolt, you can stand over your feet the whole time and rest and make good decisions, and the climbing is cruiser. Seems to me that nerves and lack of experience are the real culprits here. He places marginal micros when he can get bomber nuts, fumbles with his slings (!) constantly.... and in his post-mortem voice-over still doesn't seem to have any understanding of why his cam (which he mistakenly calls a Number Two) failed.

M Mobley · · Bar Harbor, ME · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 911

Go-bro vids are the best!

Gumby boy king · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2019 · Points: 547
Cron wrote: Gopro. Check.
Garbage placement. Check.
Pumped out on 5.8. Check.

It’s got all the ingredients boys.

Tye die shirt. Check.

Under armor muscle shirt. Check

Looking super sketchy. Check

Yep they are all here 
alpinist 47 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 0

I got trolled!

I’m good face to face ....

Forum posting not so much

Self confessed Dumb Dumb

Carry on

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5
Em Cos wrote:

Still wondering about it in a general sense. 

I wouldn't worry about it much, the forces of pulling up the rope should be much lower than the fall it already caught.  Definitely would inspect/ back it up as soon as possible though. 

I am more interested in the rope wrapping around his neck than the blown cam,  how the hell did that happen?? That is the stuff of nightmares.
IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

one positive about go pro bros is that the go pro encourages helmet use

Connor Dobson · · Louisville, CO · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 253
Em Cos wrote:
Serious question: am I alone in cringing at the immediate batmanning back up the rope? It seems like a bad idea to put extra force on the top piece that just caught your fall without being able to check it first, especially knowing you’ve already had one piece pull?

Always lower immediately, yo yo ethics are ruining climbing

Thomas Gilmore · · Where the climate suits my… · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 1,059
chris blatchley wrote: i had to dig up the roadside attraction whipper video after this one. both are pretty great.

If you haven't seen this do yourself a favor and watch now. Turn volume up and listen carefully. 

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669
IJMayer wrote: one positive about go pro bros is that the go pro encourages helmet use

I kinda didn't mind this - at least they were a bit introspective on what probably happened wrong rather than just spraying about a fall. I think the batmanning up  was partly from feeling choked by the rope, and partly just nerves at 11 - like some automatic thing. Kinda weird though having all that slack in the system while holding onto a piece. I feel they'll be back at it again a little more wiser. 

Wolf Eilers · · North Vancouver · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 0

I don’t think the OP was on Calculus Direct (5.9) when he fell. If I recall the route correctly he should of transitioned right at 11:55 to reach a ledge and gear belay. Continuing up enters a new route called Start From Scratch (10b). By the way, by Squamish standards, Calculus Direct is a stiff 5.9. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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