Best 5.12 to put on my vision board
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I've climbed 10d trad in Yosemite, back in my heyday. I'm a dad of 3 now, and all but stopped climbing these past few years. What should I aspire to do? I did red dihedral on the Hulk, so Venturi Effect comes to mind? I'd like something longer, I suppose the Mtn. West of the US is most convenient, though since this is a big someday goal, I am open to international. Any thoughts on a progression or ticklist would be appreciated as well, Astroman should probably be on there. Something something about those cliffs in Venezuela? Not really into pocked limestone in Spain and typically not a fan of overhanging and kneebars and other shit that sport climbers do. I like longer stuff in Black Velvet, but RR and JTree are my only desert experiences. Long splitters in IC sound appealing, albeit different from what I'm used to. Hand and finger cracks are great. Fek out of here with OW |
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Original Route on the Rainbow Wall at RR seems like it would fit the bill. |
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Haven't done a single one of these, but the 5.11+/5.12- routes I find most dreamy/inspiring would include (by area): |
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On my imaginary 5.12 vision board, the big two dream routes are the Rostrum (with the roof finish if you’re ambitious) and Romantic Warrior. |
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The U-Wall in squamish, Romulan Warbird in Yosemite, Wayward Son Yosemite are all awesome. I cant comment on the Hulk, as I have yet to go, but I hear Venturi effect is RAD! |
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Moonlight Buttress. If you're remotely into crack climbing, it's hands down one of the best 5.12s on the planet. Rainbow Wall is also quite good, but maybe a little mellower than you're looking for? A fun way to add some difficulty would be to tack Cloud Tower onto it. Then you'd get two routes in one day. Romantic Warrior would also fit the bill: beautiful, difficult, heady, and relatively long. I'd agree with Kerwin about Romulan. It's super memorable with very little choss and zero offwidths. I've been up both Venturi and Solar Flare and would say if you like tech face climbing, do Solar Flare and if you like crack-feature climbing, do Venturi. (tho there's still relatively little actual jamming) Honestly though, both are awesome, so you should probably just do them both. |
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Some great suggestions on this thread. Basically, all of the ones mentioned are going to be awesome. In particular, listen to the last two posters (Kerwin, Max). They both know what they're talking about hand have done some rad stuff. |
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Tague yer Time |
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Heart of Stone
is a great, inspiring line. The crux corner is among the best corners I've ever seen. It would be a more approachable tick on your road to 5.12 glory. |




