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Best 5.12 to put on my vision board

Original Post
Mikey Seaman · · Boise, ID · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 5

I've climbed 10d trad in Yosemite, back in my heyday. I'm a dad of 3 now, and all but stopped climbing these past few years. What should I aspire to do? I did red dihedral on the Hulk, so Venturi Effect comes to mind? I'd like something longer, I suppose the Mtn. West of the US is most convenient, though since this is a big someday goal, I am open to international. Any thoughts on a progression or ticklist would be appreciated as well, Astroman should probably be on there. Something something about those cliffs in Venezuela? Not really into pocked limestone in Spain and typically not a fan of overhanging and kneebars and other shit that sport climbers do. I like longer stuff in Black Velvet, but RR and JTree are my only desert experiences. Long splitters in IC sound appealing, albeit different from what I'm used to. Hand and finger cracks are great. Fek out of here with OW

Mark Paulson · · Raleigh, NC · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 141

Original Route on the Rainbow Wall at RR seems like it would fit the bill.

cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5

Haven't done a single one of these, but the 5.11+/5.12- routes I find most dreamy/inspiring would include (by area):

University Wall, Squamish

Der Sportsman, Prusik Peak
Dragons of Eden, Dragontail Peak
Let It Burn, Colchuck Balanced Rock

Freedom or Death, Liberty Bell
Thin Red Line, Liberty Bell

Atlantis, Sorcerer Needle

Venturi Effect, Incredible Hulk

Cloud Tower, Red Rock
Original Route on Rainbow Wall, Red Rock

I'm sure there are more out there but those all look real good to me!

Richard Randall · · Santa Cruz · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 0

On my imaginary 5.12 vision board, the big two dream routes are the Rostrum (with the roof finish if you’re ambitious) and Romantic Warrior.

Kerwin Loukusa · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 183

The U-Wall in squamish, Romulan Warbird in Yosemite, Wayward Son Yosemite are all awesome. I cant comment on the Hulk, as I have yet to go, but I hear Venturi effect is RAD!

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,633

Moonlight Buttress.  If you're remotely into crack climbing, it's hands down one of the best 5.12s on the planet.  Rainbow Wall is also quite good, but maybe a little mellower than you're looking for?  A fun way to add some difficulty would be to tack Cloud Tower onto it.  Then you'd get two routes in one day.  Romantic Warrior would also fit the bill: beautiful, difficult, heady, and relatively long.  I'd agree with Kerwin about Romulan.  It's super memorable with very little choss and zero offwidths.  I've been up both Venturi and Solar Flare and would say if you like tech face climbing, do Solar Flare and if you like crack-feature climbing, do Venturi. (tho there's still relatively little actual jamming)  Honestly though, both are awesome, so you should probably just do them both.

One last thought about your bias against 'shit sport climbers do' is that the movement on sport climbs and trad climbs ends up feeling pretty darn similar starting at the grade your aspiring to, so the best thing you could probably do to send any of the routes listed above, (especially given that you seem to be coming from a trad background) would be to start sport climbing a bunch and try and send a 5.13.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Some great suggestions on this thread. Basically, all of the ones mentioned are going to be awesome. In particular, listen to the last two posters (Kerwin, Max). They both know what they're talking about hand have done some rad stuff.

In terms of choosing a goal, the main question is what inspires you and how lofty a goal you want.There is going to be a big gap in difficulty between something like Rainbow Wall and something like Venturi. Would you rather have a goal at the lower end of the 5.12 multipitch specturm that could be pretty attainable with a few seasons of focused progression (Rainbow), or somthing harder that is more of an aim-high reach goal? The two aren't mutually exclusive either. If you want to climb Venturi, then Rainbow Wall would be reasonable to include your progression ticklist to get there.  

Regarding that progression ticklist, you could probably keep busy for quite a few years with this list.

Andrew Reed · · CaƱon City, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 56

Tague yer Time 

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 650
Heart of Stone

is a great, inspiring line. The crux corner is among the best corners I've ever seen. It would be a more approachable tick on your road to 5.12 glory.

Scarface should be on your list as well, featuring incredible 5.12 corner and crack climbing

If you're out at the hulk you should think about also getting on Blowhard. A bit less stacked than Venturi, so perhaps more approachable. Also, the crux pitch is on Blowhard might be just as quality as anything on Venturi and possibly more unique. One of my favorite pitches ever.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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