Truly great climbing destinations...for those who suck at climbing

This picture came up on the front page, today. I am sooooo jealous, in every possible way, lol! But, nothing to do about me being me, except to make the best of it. What grade is this roof, anyway, meaning, is it all V5? I'm always wanting what the body just can't do. Inverted, bat hangs, wide stuff, mixed ice, DWS into warm, swimable water. Sheesh. You people have so ruined me for "normal". Thank you, by the way. 

So? DWS would definitely be on my list, for a once before I die kinda trip. But, where? And I'd want more than that, of course, if I'm putting out the bucks. Someplace worth going to even without climbing. Australia has been on my list all my life, but that truly would be a huge big deal to accomplish.

Where would you send a 5.6ish climber with shit for knees? A packaged trip? Guide? Any hope getting partners for this sort of thing, when you can't do big ticket stuff, or even moderate stuff "average" climbers climb? Anywhere is fair game, although I don't have a passport.

Yet.

Best, Helen

What you see in glossy magazines and social media doesn't represent the majority of climbers, but better climbers make for better/prettier photos, so that's what you see. Doesn't mean that there aren't some V0- nearby, allowing you to experience the same thrill.

DWS was on my bucket list, too, LOL. Having done it... I discovered that I'm really not into it. It may have been the water that was dripping out of my nasal cavities every time I tilted my head forward, for solid two days, or the saltwater sloshing in my stomach, but it is now firmly crossed off my bucket list with a big fat sharpie, as "not-to-repeat".

If you specifically want DWS, and are willing to travel internationally, Thailand has a lot of it. At popular climbing destinations, e.g. Tonsai, there are DWS trips pretty much every day, there would be couple guys with a boat taking out a group. And when I went on one such DWS day trip, they took the group to a location with 5.6-5.7 scrambles for the first half of the day.  I would say that most people who went on that tour were barely 5.10 climbers. The second half of the day was at a location that had some 5.10-5.12 DWS options, but honestly, most people just wanted the thrill of jumping into water a few times, and not so much climbing.

And sure, there is also non-DWS easy climbing there, too. 5.6-and-under are not going to be common at sport climbing destinations, but they certainly exist. I do think that it is much harder to find partners, if you are traveling solo, and only climbing 5.6, but such is life. If you go to Thailand though, there are a lot of guides that would happily take you out for a day or toproping, no need for partners, and the cost is very low, from a $ cost perspective. Also, as far as lifetime bucket list destination goes, South-East Asia is pretty awesome. 

Old lady H wrote:

This picture came up on the front page, today. I am sooooo jealous, in every possible way, lol! But, nothing to do about me being me, except to make the best of it. What grade is this roof, anyway, meaning, is it all V5? I'm always wanting what the body just can't do. Inverted, bat hangs, wide stuff, mixed ice, DWS into warm, swimable water. Sheesh. You people have so ruined me for "normal". Thank you, by the way. 

So? DWS would definitely be on my list, for a once before I die kinda trip. But, where? And I'd want more than that, of course, if I'm putting out the bucks. Someplace worth going to even without climbing. Australia has been on my list all my life, but that truly would be a huge big deal to accomplish.

Where would you send a 5.6ish climber with shit for knees? A packaged trip? Guide? Any hope getting partners for this sort of thing, when you can't do big ticket stuff, or even moderate stuff "average" climbers climb? Anywhere is fair game, although I don't have a passport.

Yet.

Best, Helen

Helen,

Your knees and climbing grade will greatly limit what you can climb, but there's still lots of single-pitch, easy approach climbing available to you. I think going out with a guide would be a great experience for you. And since Joshua Tree season has just started, it's just waiting for you!

And if you were looking specifically for DWS, I apologize for the off-topic suggestion.

Old lady H wrote
This picture came up on the front page, today. I am sooooo jealous, in every possible way, lol! But, nothing to do about me being me, except to make the best of it. What grade is this roof, anyway, meaning, is it all V5? I'm always wanting what the body just can't do. Inverted, bat hangs, wide stuff, mixed ice, DWS into warm, swimable water. Sheesh. You people have so ruined me for "normal". Thank you, by the way.

So? DWS would definitely be on my list, for a once before I die kinda trip. But, where? And I'd want more than that, of course, if I'm putting out the bucks. Someplace worth going to even without climbing. Australia has been on my list all my life, but that truly would be a huge big deal to accomplish.

Where would you send a 5.6ish climber with shit for knees? A packaged trip? Guide? Any hope getting partners for this sort of thing, when you can't do big ticket stuff, or even moderate stuff "average" climbers climb? Anywhere is fair game, although I don't have a passport.

Yet.

Best, Helen

I'm going to lean away from the focus of the question (where to go) and talk about how to get there cheaply and make the most of your trip.  Why would going to Australia be a huge thing to accomplish?  If cost is the issue, packaged trips and guides are not the answer.  International travel can actually be quite cheap depending on where you go (3rd world countries are cheaper than 1st world countries).  How you travel is as important as where you go.  The lower your standard for accommodation and food, the less you'll spend on them.
 
I work seasonally in Yosemite and usually make enough over the summer season to take some time off.  A couple of years ago I spent six months in India and spent around $4500.  The ticket cost ~$1200, but once I was there I was living quite comfortably on $500 per month.  I spent most of my time in relatively few locations, and found that spending more time in one area meant that I had time to find cheaper food and accommodation, and in addition got to know the area  was visiting  better.  I planned for the trip for quite a while, budgeted for my expected daily expenses, and left myself a good buffer for emergencies and the time I'd spend before working when I got back.

When I spent a summer in squamish, the cost of getting there was lower, but the cost of accommodation was prohibitively high, so I spent my time in a tent on what was then public land free to camping.  The cost of food and other expenses was an order of magnitude higher than in India, so my cost of living was closer to $1000 / month.  The cost of living in a hostel in India was half of the cost of living in the dirt in Canada!

TL;DR, international travel is cheaper than it's ever been.  If you want to make it happen, make it happen!

Mallorca. Best DWS in the world, and a few nice crags with nothing over 5.8 (though there is a ton of wonderful harder stuff). Get a passport.

Thanks, all!

A really big part of this is head game, I freely admit it. My circumstances changed pretty dramatically only half a year ago, so I am moving forward, slowly, but forward nonetheless. Half a year ago, a great deal was problematic. Two years ago, even day trips. Hard, when you have no car and very little income.

Anyway, that was then, this is now.

Lena, yeah, salt water ear to ear, I dunno. But, I don't know. So why not? I swim otherwise, a pool I admit.

Frank, CA will happen, maybe next year? Consider yourself warned! Joshua tree tops the list. Well, people top all of my lists, but Joshua tree just really appeals. I think I'm drawn to old school areas, go figure!

The Maple Canyon trip this season got me into a plane and renting a car. Many, many trips to City of Rocks got my camping really dialed. And, I learned a lot on this last two week trip. Two weeks was doable, longer should be too.

However, I also discovered the difficulty of lining up partners. Don't get me wrong, I had lots of offers, but it still left lots of gaps without, for weekdays in particular. I also didn't realize, until I got there, that neither SLC nor Denver were places I could just sleep in my car. That's a "duh" for most and simply bad homework on my part. Which means a base to have covered, and plans in place, a very specific schedule, a budget....all of it. New skills, for me!

I will be getting a passport. I've not done a bit of it yet, except I got my photos!

Another plus, "5.6" is what I can [likely] claim, onsite sport lead. With lots of fine print, lol! Not at my home crap, not if a normal reach is mandatory, not if the anchors are out of reach. Aw, geez, it's a long list, but HTFU, eh?

And? I'm going to buy a Kong panic. That, might be a real game changer. I'm fine with jumping for it, but not when the "it" is the anchor. Just above the ledge that should be the last stance.

India, probably not. But I get the point.

Mallorca, geez, I'm embarrassed to admit, I don't remember just where it is, even though I know it is a climbing destination, lol!

Best, Helen

One of the great things about the gunks is the number of fantastic climbs under 5.7.

mbk wrote: One of the great things about the gunks is the number of fantastic climbs under 5.7.

Except aren't they sandbagged, like, 10 number grades? And sorta mandatory to be taller than a fourth grader?

Old lady H wrote:

Mallorca, geez, I'm embarrassed to admit, I don't remember just where it is, even though I know it is a climbing destination, lol!

Best, Helen

Off the coast of Cataluña. Really, check this place out. It is safe, affordable, easy, and more than just about the climbing, though the climbing is fantastic. 

Old lady H wrote:

Except aren't they sandbagged, like, 10 number grades? And sorta mandatory to be taller than a fourth grader?

That depends.  If you're someone who never climbs rock, it'll feel hard.  It's not any more sandbagged than any other trad climbing area.  And there are TONS of fun climbs 5.6 or under.  Reach helps on some routes, but is irrelevant on many.  Happy climbing!

EDIT:  Also short, easy approaches on the knees for many routes!

Brian Sundermann wrote:

That depends.  If you're someone who never climbs rock, it'll feel hard.  It's not any more sandbagged than any other trad climbing area.  And there are TONS of fun climbs 5.6 or under.  Reach helps on some routes, but is irrelevant on many.  Happy climbing!

Qft, gunks is great. No more sandbagged than anywhere else in my experience and spectacularly solid rock inspires confidence in my gear. Steep cruxes make for mostly safe falls as well. 

Old lady H wrote: 
Where would you send a 5.6ish climber with shit for knees? A packaged trip? Guide? Any hope getting partners for this sort of thing, when you can't do big ticket stuff, or even moderate stuff "average" climbers climb?

I would send you to Boulder for a few months where you would employ a COACH to train your body and mind.   I don't see any real impediment to you climbing harder except for that thing between your ears.  You have time now, invest it in yourself.

P.S. Lotsa good restaurants and beer, too.

John Byrnes wrote:

I would send you to Boulder for a few months where you would employ a COACH to train your body and mind.   I don't see any real impediment to you climbing harder except for that thing between your ears.  You have time now, invest it in yourself.

P.S. Lotsa good restaurants and beer, too.

Lol! The reason I can claim 5.6 now, is because every single place I traveled to not only included easier grades (that don't exist here), they were easier at the grade, than here. For me. That's pretty damn encouraging. I still have no real limits, yet, just impediments to work with, like everyone else.

I am, after all, signed up for Bozeman in December. That, already makes me an outlier in the badassery department, dear. And, I promise I'll include Rifle if next season includes CO. Better get your game on, kid.

You can drink my beers, food is always a plus!

Truly though, climbing with very good climbers is wonderful. That's been a real treat. Also the times I've had coaches.

Being stubborn helps heaps too. I simply refuse to quit even if parts start littering the trail on the way up. ;-)

Best, Helen

Come up to Spokane next summer and we’ll do a day of sport, a day of alpine, and maybe a little DWS as well. 

Australia is a wonderful place to visit, my husband is from there and we make a trip every couple of years. Since having kids there has been no climbing there but I submitted to trip report from one of our earlier visits to Arapalies to a long lost climbing forum......  I think the link and article are still there so maybe that will wet your appetite.  But yes you do need a passport!

http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Trip_Report/Climbing_and_cricket_at_Mt_Arapiles_1079.html

Horseshoe Canyon Ranch.

5.8 all day if you want.

Just one random person's opinion, but at 5'1.5''/-4 reach I haven't found easy routes at the Gunks appreciably more likely to have reach-dependent moves than elsewhere. It's a great place to work on your head for committing moves, because at the easy grades there are jugs everywhere, but sometimes you have to "go for it" just a littttttle bit to get to them--regardless of height! :)

(That said, I've not climbed super extensively at the Gunks, so perhaps my perspective is incomplete.)

These is DWS in the states...some of it epic and plenty of easy stuff to DWS and plenty of burly. You don’t have to travel the world to DWS. 

Not sure if I’m the only one who thinks this, and I don’t mean to be plain negative, but I personally find DWS really, really, really lack luster. To begin, the first ten to twenty feet are usually wet. If you want to get any height, you’re going to have to jump/fall that same distance. Landing on water awkwardly from 60’ hurts and is scary. If you’re going on a guided tour, you will most likely be with a bunch of drunk/high tourist punters who are in it for the gram and not too concerned about safety. Also, you and your entire kit get soaked after every climb. The upside is that your knees won’t be absorbing the force from falls, but that’s about it. 

If you want world class climbing that is convenient and approachable to all people, then go to Arco, the Blue Mountains, or Arapiles. Or you could come to Chattanooga...

Couple old quarries around Knoxville tn you could dws. Climbing would be V easy. Seen it done barefoot. No sweet roof pics but easy on the knees. And you could throw back some natty ice with Muskrat and Sawmill

East clear creek canyon. Outside of Winslow, AZ