Gunks Advice

I have a half day, non-weekend, to climb in the Gunks.

Meeting a climber from NYC at 0830 and we're going to climb until ~1pm.

We both lead 5.10 easy sport and currently, at most, 5.6--maybe 5.7 trad outside of the Gunks.  

We both have done multi-pitch (but never in the Gunks) and believe that we are safe climbers that do not want to push it on R routes, etc.

What do you believe that should we climb with these constraints (5.6/5.7 lead trad-not Gunks grades, safe routes with great gear, awesome routes, 4 hours of time).

Is Madame G a good idea?  Is High E a "true" 5.6 and well protected or not so much for a first multipitch in the Gunks? Beginner Delight?  Gelsa?  Three Pines? Horseman?

Looking to stay well within our abilities but hit some classics in the time that we have.

Thanks All!

Buck Rogers Is Madame G a good idea?  Is High E a "true" 5.6 and well protected or not so much for a first multipitch in the Gunks? Beginner Delight?  Gelsa?  Three Pines? Horseman?

If you’re going on a weekday then definitely go for High E. Wrist is also a great 5.6. Something Interesting and Classic are great 5.7 climbs 

Mike S wrote: If you’re going on a weekday then definitely go for High E. Wrist is also a great 5.6. Something Interesting and Classic are great 5.7 climbs 

If your trad lead max is 5.6-5.7 outside of the Gunks, I doubt you'll be comfortable on either of these 5.7 climbs.  You may very well be maxed out on 5.6.  Unfortunately, you may really only have time for one multi pitch climb, considering you are not familiar with your partner or the location.  Otherwise, I would say try a classic 5.5 first and see how u do.  The first pitch of High E is 5.5ish.  If you find that easy, you'll probably be OK on pitch 2. Also, if you have time for one classic, Wrist is not the one to choose.

If you think you have enough time for 2 climbs, I suggest going with an easier shorter classic first, like Horseman (5.5), Bunny (5.4 or 5.6), or even Rhododendron (5.6). You could do these quickly on your way in.  All have good gear, easy/quick descents and would only take maybe 1 hour or less to do.  If u do this, you could do Madame G's instead of High E since it is closer to the parking area.

Madame G's and High E are gear-eating jug fests with obvious lines.

That said, if this is your first-ever multi-pitch in the Gunks, hit Three Pines first for a warm-up, and then pick either of the other two or do both. I prefer Madame G's over High Exposure, and I also think Madame G's is less heady.

 Bring two (60M) ropes and rap the entire length of Madame G's in one shot which is pretty gnarly for your first time out.

1st and only time in the Gunks was about this time 2 yrs ago. Did Madame G and High E both in 2 pitches. I was probably on-sighting 5.7/5.8 trad at that time (not much better nowadays) and I never felt insecure, runout, pumped on either of those 2 routes. My wife said she felt pretty exposed coming off the GT ledge (as a second), but I didn't feel that way at all on lead, and from what I remember I never felt like I was pulling a roof. That being said, I didn't look down coming off the GT ledge and my wife also thinks she had to make a couple more moves to reach some jugs to "pull the roof". She's 5'0" and I'm 5'9".

I recommend Shockley's Ceiling (5.6). I thought it was way more fun than high E..

The approach is shorter, the first two pitches are easy so if you're not used to the Gunks you still won't have any problems, there are two distinct cruxes on the third pitch and both can be soooo well protected.

Have fun!

Do Jackie

Four hours isn't a lot of time. In four hours on a weekday, I bet you could get through High Exposure, Moonlight, and Limelight, in that order. They're fairly close together as well. A lot of the climbs you're looking at are far apart, and I'd hate for you to get here and spend all of your short time hiking.

lostlazy wrote: That said, if this is your first-ever multi-pitch in the Gunks, hit Three Pines first for a warm-up, and then pick either of the other two or do both.

If I only had four hours in the Gunks and I wasted any part of it on Three Pines I'd be sad.

Don't get me wrong, it's a perfectly fine climb, but the first pitch of High E is enough warmup.

David K wrote: Four hours isn't a lot of time. In four hours on a weekday, I bet you could get through High Exposure, Moonlight, and Limelight, in that order. They're fairly close together as well. A lot of the climbs you're looking at are far apart, and I'd hate for you to get here and spend all of your short time hiking.

If it's his first time there, I bet he'll get lost finding Moonlight and probably Limelight.

For Wrist you would want a #5 if you don't climb trad all that much and Moonlight is fantastic but many people find the crux to be a little run out. For Shockley's it can be hard to hear your partner from the top. These are all great recommendations, though.

There are some 5.6 or less climbs that as a complete climb are better than High E, like Madame G, for example, but the crux + last 30 feet of High E are pretty special.

You'd have a memorable day on anything people recommended above.

If you only have time for another single pitch climb then Credibility Gap, V3, Jackie, Horseman, Laurel are all fun climbs.

Brian Shaffer wrote: For Wrist you would want a #5 if you don't climb trad all that much and Moonlight is fantastic but many people find the crux to be a little run out. For Shockley's it can be hard to hear your partner from the top. These are all great recommendations, though.

I think you only need a #4 for that crack on Wrist.

Brian Shaffer wrote: For Wrist you would want a #5 if you don't climb trad all that much and Moonlight is fantastic but many people find the crux to be a little run out. 

I first led Moonlight on-sight when I was leading 5.9+ and the occasional easy 5.10. I thought the gear on the Moonlight crux was terrifying and *might* keep you from decking on the GT ledge - assuming it held.

Disclaimer: this was in the early 80's and I haven't been climbing in the Gunks for the past 20 years - I have no idea if modern trinkets have improved the situation.

Erik B wrote:

I think you only need a #4 for that crack on Wrist.

I think you are right.

In four hours, you should do Horsemen, Rhododendron, and mayyyybe Jackie. No point in getting into an epic

Marc801 C wrote: I first led Moonlight on-sight when I was leading 5.9+ and the occasional easy 5.10. I thought the gear on the Moonlight crux was terrifying and *might* keep you from decking on the GT ledge - assuming it held.

Disclaimer: this was in the early 80's and I haven't been climbing in the Gunks for the past 20 years - I have no idea if modern trinkets have improved the situation.

This seems about right. You wouldn't deck from the crux but you would take a big swinging fall back into the corner. Definitely very PG even with modern gear.

Check out Disneyland in the Nears... "5.6" with some crazy fun moves.  Nothing absurd, but ultraclassic.  Also has a ton of pins, so you don't need that much gear.  Enjoy and have a great time no matter what!

Ross Ayer wrote: Check out Disneyland in the Nears... "5.6" with some crazy fun moves.  Nothing absurd, but ultraclassic.  Also has a ton of pins, so you don't need that much gear.  Enjoy and have a great time no matter what!

Advising a non-local to not take gear and trust 50+ year old pins is not sound advice.

Don't waste your time on Kens Crack! You have enough time to get on a 5 star 5.5 or 5.6. Park at the East traps and warm up via the stairmaster. Arch is a cool. Shockley's Ceiling is super cool and ultra classic. 

Dan.G. yorlig wrote: Don't waste your time on Kens Crack! You have enough time to get on a 5 star 5.5 or 5.6. Park at the East traps and warm up via the stairmaster. Arch is a cool. Shockley's Ceiling is super cool and ultra classic. 

There's no lot designated "East Trapps". If you're talking about what I think you are, it's the Warwarsing Entry. Enter at the Visitor Center.

OP- I suggest you bypass the single pitch options (horseman, Laurel, rhododendron, Ken's crack) and go straight for one of the three star classic multipitch routes.