The end all, be all onsight trad rack

Pretty self-explanatory. Let's say you don't know anything about the gear, other than what you can see from the ground and it's not an obvious, continuous thin seam/wide crack. Do you go with more is better? Go lean & run it out?

For me, something like:

• Double 0.2 or 0.3 to #1
• Single #2
• Would consider #3 or #4 if there's an obvious section where I would be able to get ride of them
• single nuts
• 12 alpines

I'd go doubles to #3, but I'm a wuss with gear and tend to find wide stuff in my usual areas.  Also, add tricams for weird placements and anchor building, they're pretty light anyway.

Also, is this for single or multi pitch? For multi, there's anchor gear to worry about too!

This is just the standard rack I carry around, normally climbing stuff onsight or just reading the description from the guidebook.

• Single rack of C4s from 0.3 - 2 or 3
• Doubles in the sizes I think I'll need (depends on length of pitch and what placements I can see from the ground)
• Full set of DMM Wallnuts + Peenuts (if things look thin)
• Black totem and a pink tricam

I'd go doubles to 4, a 5, 6, VG9.  I always have a blue ballnut and a pecker for when shit needs to get done.

Black Totem and pink Tricam.

(Someone had to.)

Single rack of C4s .1-2
Link cams .5 and 2
Red C3
Black, pink, red tricams
Set and a half of nuts with doubles on the smaller stuff.
11 slings with biners
2 double length slings with biners
5loose biners

7mm cord and locker

caughtinside wrote: It’s what is generally called the standard rack. Which sounds like what you described. 

I thought the standard was pretty much a single rack - I carry a double, almost....

2 sets of camalot ultralights .75 to 2. A single 3 and 4.
1 set of X4s .2 to .5 (or probably Z4s when you can get them)
1 set of Totems .5 to 1
1 set of Metolius ultralight curve nuts

Would it ever help to add link cams?

Nathan Hui wrote: Would it ever help to add link cams?

I'm not a fan. Heavy. You can't pull the trigger more on one side to easily place it in a flared placement. 

Usually there's enough variability in the placements available that you can find something on your rack that will work. The added weight for the added range doesn't seem worth it to me. I'd rather have 4 lighter cams than 3 link cams.

To linked or not to linked.

A .5  and 2 pretty much cover the full range of a standard rack.

They are heavy. They do walk easily. Ive seen many a stuck one although havent any. I have heard they explode in severe falls when in horizontal cracks.

I usually save them for the anchor or when nothing else will work. 

Doubles up to 3, will usually bring a 4 because I’m a pansy, then I end up placing like 3 or 4 pieces the whole pitch. 

Doubles and Generally triples in standard finger sizes. I always have a .75 and #2 link cams.  They go in where absolutely nothing else will and I've never had one explode, break or get stuck. 1 or two #3s depending on the looks from the ground and I also second peanuts.  Love em!

six or seven fist sized cams, maybe some carabiners. Throw in a tricam if you are new.

Kind of depends on how long the pitch is but my standard is the following kit: 
If it’s on the shorter side:

Singles bd .5-3, #4-#10 dmm offsets, #1-#7 wallnuts, tricam evos, totems black, yellow, and blue, green c3’s, red c3, 12 alpines, 1 double length, 2 loose biners

Longer routes: same but with x4’s .1-.4, c4 .5-1 and 3-4 shoulder lengths with single biner over shoulder
If it’s wider I’ll bring more pieces and if I see it’s thin, I’ll sometimes bring a couple extra c3’s. I think the key to any kit is having versatile gear like a couple totems, tricams, or link cams in order to keep it light but still have the placement options of a standard double 

A full set of IMP brass nuts, yellow totem, gold ball nut, and a whistle.

Doubles from .2-3, mix of WC friends, C4s, totems, and metolius UL. Sometimes a single #4. If in vedauwoo, pretty much always a 4,5, and 6.

3 smallest ball nuts, don't always use them, but when I do, it's because nothing else works.

Set of medium offsets nuts

Full set of regular nuts

10 alpine draws, a few regular draws, 2 double length slings around the shoulder

Cordalette, 3 spare lockers, reverso, helmet, 2 prussiks.

I carry this even on shorter routes cause I'm a pussy. And I still run out of runners every once in a while creating horrible rope drag.

Interesting how many people specifically bring a red C3.  Only one I didn’t get before they disappeared...yellow and green usually are on the rack though, purple and grey if I’m worried about pro options.

Ted Pinson wrote: Interesting how many people specifically bring a red C3.  Only one I didn’t get before they disappeared...yellow and green usually are on the rack though, purple and grey if I’m worried about pro options.

It’s the only one I own.  Fits nicely between a .2 and .3 sometimes.  

Quadruples of sizes .1-4, single 5, single 6, three knifeblades, two angles, a RURP, three micronuts and a bolt kit.

man really suprised to have not seen purple and grey (0/00) metolious yet.  Love those cams.