Pink tricam love

ebmudder wrote:

looks good, but if it's clipped to a quickdraw, be aware that it could be dislodged by rope drap. I always try to use an alpine draw or sling and extend as much as possible to prevent the tricam's sling from jostling around.

Another option if you want to keep the quickdraw instead of an alpine draw or sling (either because you want the connection short or you want an easier clip) is to use a different quickdraw that is more floppy. The trango phases or 10mm dyneema dogbone from BD are some examples of good draws for trad climbing because they are still somewhat floppy on the gear side of the dogbone, although obviously not as much as a sling would be.

I think wild country also makes some nice floppy dogbones where only a small portion of the dogbone is sewn shut and the rest of it is kept as an open loop. These make great options for when the route is fairly straight up so you don't need much extension but still want some flop to reduce jerks from rope movement. 

 wrote:

Moore's is where I fell in love with my pink.

Is this an excerpt from the Vagina Monologues?

How about a full Tricam anchor?  This is on the Petit Grepon, all those placements basically wouldn't take anything except a tricam, that bottom one mayyyybe could get a cam but was a super shallow pocket.  There were edges behind all the fulcrums so they were super bomber.

The link back a few pages didn't work, so I found an updated one :)

Wow, that's my shirt design.... I guess a Chinese company has decided to steal it. Sorry the previous link was broken, you can get the shirt here and actually support the "artist" if you want. Or here is a sticker version!

Tricam away my friends.

Lol, at least they named it the "Pink Tricam Kevin Heinrich Shirt"

Gelsa p1

I didn't notice that I had used the racking 'biner clipped directly to the loop until posting up :(

In addition: the recommendation from Camp for tricam placements in horizontal cracks is for fulcrum pointing down (provided that adequate asperities are present on the lower surface), unless placed as progression pro in a horizontal traverse, in which case, up is better.

jktinst wrote: In addition: the recommendation from Camp for tricam placements in horizontal cracks is for fulcrum pointing down (provided that adequate asperities are present on the lower surface), unless placed as progression pro in a horizontal traverse, in which case, up is better.

In this case, the placement was more solid pin-up than pin-down.

Zodiac, Black Tower pitch. C3+. Couldn’t get an offset or a totem to stick. Didn’t die. Hail Satan.

Max Rausch wrote: Zodiac, Black Tower pitch. C3+. Couldn’t get an offset or a totem to stick. Didn’t die. Hail Satan. 

I don't aid, so maybe this is normal for aid climbing, but as a free climber I would not have been in a rush to weight that.

David K wrote:

I don't aid, so maybe this is normal for aid climbing, but as a free climber I would not have been in a rush to weight that.

what pieces are you in a hurry to weight on a C3+ aid...?

joe sakelwrote:

what pieces are you in a hurry to weight on a C3+ aid...?

The bolts.  

would definitely whip.

The coolest anchor I've ever built. Pinky hanging out down low.

If all else fails, tricam it. 

Gunks anchor. Not the greatest since the pieces are all in one spot, but the rock is so bomber and I couldn't help myself.

The Zip, Squamish. Tricam only ascent.

Redacted Redactbergwrote:

The Zip, Squamish. Tricam only ascent.

I love it. I hope you bought your follower a beer.