Does twisting a dyneema sling weaken it?

Hey Everyone just wondering if I would die if I used a dyneema sling like this. Thanks for the advice!

why?

+1 to why?

It's  probably fine. It's not creating weird angles and you havent added a knot. You're probably getting the same strength as a folded sling, which should be far stronger than the fully extended sling but I cant find science to support that notion.

Even with a knot in, you would have to have a super shitty fall for the sling to fail. https://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/June-2010/How-to-Break-Nylon-Dyneema%C2%AE-Slings

Found science: https://www.dsm.com/content/dam/dsm/dyneema/en_GB/Downloads/Science_Centre/Lecture%20Residual%20Strength%20Testing%20on%20Dyneema%20Fiber%20Tug%20Lines_MAY2002.pdf

Unnecessary twists results in uneven wear.  YGD.

Eugenel Espiritu wrote: +1 to why?

It's  probably fine. It's not creating weird angles and you havent added a knot. You're probably getting the same strength as a folded sling, which should be far stronger than the fully extended sling but I cant find science to support that notion.

Even with a knot in, you would have to have a super shitty fall for the sling to fail. https://dmmclimbing.com/Knowledge/June-2010/How-to-Break-Nylon-Dyneema%C2%AE-Slings

Sure thing it isn't getting stronger! With the sling lying over itself at the biner the outer layer will cut the inner through, doubled like that they are usually weaker than extended.

One thing is for certain; you are going to die.

I’m wondering if talking a fall on such a setup would be fine. I am trying to use them as QuickDraws for sport climbing as I only have alpine draws. I see this as a better alternative to not twisting the dyneema as it seems to keep the carabiners in the right orientation.

Emil Tjonneland wrote: I’m wondering if talking a fall on such a setup would be fine. I am trying to use them as QuickDraws for sport climbing as I only have alpine draws. I see this as a better alternative to not twisting the dyneema as it seems to keep the carabiners in the right orientation.

Why not just put them in a normal, non-extended orientation?

Also, they should retain plenty of strength in your twisted configuration

Adding the twists creates a nice tight loop at both ends. In theory this tight loop prevents the carabiners from moving into an unfavorable orientation from rope drag. I played around with twisted and untwisted slings and found this to be the case. I could be wrong and I wasn’t certain if the twists would reduce the overall strength which is why I’m asking.

If you want to sports climb on your alpine draws a wrap tape is going to keep things oriented better. For the rope end biner at least.

Ill be the 1st to say it... just buy some sport draws. Your trad draws are going to be shitty for sport climbing. If you look around you can get draws for 8-9bucks each new. Camp orbit,  cypher anything, climb tech anjeo, somtimes petzl djinn, sometimes bd newbtrino or hawtwires.

There is no reason i can think of to spend 30 bucks a draw for sports draws.

Shit i went through my collection of bail biners over the last 10years and made 30+ decent quickdraws that i leave on a project. Cost 1-2 dollars per dogbone on mega sale.(mammut or climbtech rated and new)

Overwhelmingly if i am sportclinging somthing i just fix the warmup i prefer and the route i am climbing and call it good. I have had some of my draws stolen but at these costs... i just don't care.

I think maybe 8 of the cheap draws dissapeared over the last 3 years.

Look around on here for cheap draws too

Based on zero science; I'd feel better buying some dog bones than using those. 

Adding the twists is locking the biners on both ends. You want the bolt end carabiner to be completely free, attach the "rigid" biner of a draw to the bolt and your greatly increase the risk of getting the gate opened on the bolt hanger by odd draw movement.

Listen to what Rob said, spend a couple bucks. 

Don’t know why you would do it. But you are talking about multiple strands. Magnifying the strength. Take care to assess wear falls will be rubbing the material against each other with possible burn. But it’s fine. If a bit over thought

Thanks for the advice everyone. I’m just gonna have to bite the bullet and get some cheap dogbones. 

YGD, but not because you twisted your dyneema slings.

Safe = yes
Sport draws better for sport climbing = yes