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Best Areas in Southeast to Train for Yosemite

Original Post
Jesse Montgomery · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 110

We currently live in Georgia, but are looking to make a trip back out to Yosemite next spring to climb some walls.  Does anyone know of good areas in the Southeast to train for Yosemite? (Long multipitch climbs, granite, cracks, etc).  My only thoughts so far are Boat Rock and Table Mountain.  

Insert name · · Harts Location · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 58
Jesse Montgomery wrote: We currently live in Georgia, but are looking to make a trip back out to Yosemite next spring to climb some walls.  Does anyone know of good areas in the Southeast to train for Yosemite? (Long multipitch climbs, granite, cracks, etc).  My only thoughts so far are Boat Rock and Table Mountain.  

North Carolina has some slabs and walls.


Not the stone/length/etc but Twall has some nice sandstone cracks.
bernard wolfe · · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 300

For Geologic similarity
N Carolina:  Looking Glass, Cedar Rock, Laurel Knob

General fitness:
Tennessee Wall.....but just about anywhere might be useful.  Consider repeating (top rope) laps on routes you decide are appropriate for training purposes.....and by lap i mean start climb, finish, lower to the ground, immediately repeat.  Another tactic might be, given a typical southeastern crag environment, strive for as many pitches in a day as possible.  Really focus your minds and effort on teamwork, gear organization, efficiency, minimizing time wasted between actual climbing-belaying.

You didn't say what your objectives were while in Yosemite or where exactly......the Valley?  Tuolumne Meadows?  Other?  .....so i assumed you mean long multi-pitch and granite geology

Chase Bowman · · Durango, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 965

Looking Glass is amazing. I hung out there for two years, before moving west.

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 726

Hey bud-
I grew up in GA and climbed a bunch in Yosemite, so hopefully this helps.

Granite cracks: N Side of Looking Glass, Cereal Buttress/the Bald. Also Hyperbola, the Odyssey, Unfinished Concerto, and all the South Side stuff like Rat’s Ass, etc. Start there if you don’t lead 5.10 yet.

Whitesides for speed and efficiency. Try 2 routes in a day once you get the logistics sorted. 

Bernard’s beta on lapping T-Wall cracks is spot on.  

Walls: the Glass. And Reflections. Also those steep things in Tallulah , big roofs up high.... playground of the old men?

Big goals are great! Have fun training, no matter what, you win.

Jesse Montgomery · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 110

Thanks so much for all the suggestions!  Looks like we better head out to NC.  We have been having a blast training on our homemade crack trainer, but nothing quite compares to getting mileage on real rock.  

We are mostly into multipitch free climbing so the Rostrum and Astroman are on our list.  We'd also like to flex our aid climbing muscles and maybe do a Grade IV or V like Washington Column (cliche I know).  The tick list still pretty undecided right now though.    

Definitely stoked to hit some of the longer routes suggested and get our systems dialed.  Thanks!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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