Self Rescue when using the climbing rope as your anchor
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Alright, I’ve built my anchor out of bomber pieces and used the climbing rope to connect them, let’s say two cams equalized on each other and a third separate, all connected with a bunny eared figure-eight for the sake of a specific situation. Now my leader gets domed by a big rock and is unconscious and probably having a bad time. What do? |
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Other than the small amount of rope used up, I'm not sure why you think there's a difference between whether the climbing rope, that's tied to you, connects you to the 3 pieces or whether you are connected to them with a sling or PAS. |
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Couldn't you just escape the belay the way you normally would tie off the climber and prussik up/down to them just like you would with an anchor using cord? |
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If it helps you to wrap your head around it, imagine cutting the rope off just past the section you built an anchor with. You have an anchor, and a slightly shorter rope. (Actually cutting the rope is not necessary). What do you have to gain from building a new anchor, and transferring your partner to it, then breaking down the old anchor? You still have an anchor with a rope attached to it ... |
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Liam Hoefer wrote: Alright, I’ve built my anchor out of bomber pieces and used the climbing rope to connect them, let’s say two cams equalized on each other and a third separate, all connected with a bunny eared figure-eight for the sake of a specific situation. Now my leader gets domed by a big rock and is unconscious and probably having a bad time. What do?Less than half rope out: Lower her, stabilize, call for help. More than half rope out: Why!? Lock her off, call for help. Or, my follower gets into the same situation because I dropped my heavy jar of unhomogenized milk on them whilst belaying them from above.Why!? Ledge below, enough tope in: Lower him, call for help, rappel to him, call for help. ledge below, not enough rope in: Lower him, call for help. no legde, enough rope in: Lock them off, self lower, stabilize, call for help. no ledge, not enough rope in: Why!? Lock them off, call for help. |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote:why not? Sounds like a great plan to me. Specially for the OP given their question (or for myself given my skills and desire to live). |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote: In many circumstances, it might be the only feasible rescue plan. |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote: The main question I'm hearing is "How do I get the weighted main rope out of the anchor since I need this to get down, with a climber that can't help you at all?" You should back the friction hitch (prussic) with a knot thought. A munter-mule-overhand is ideal, since it's releasable under load, but in a bunch a figure-8 or overhand on a bight will work for the process you described. Having the injured leader rely solely on a friction hitch to keep them alive isn't ideal. I'd also be very reluctant to cut the prussic off. You can still release a prussic under load - just allow the weight to transfer to the (tied off) device or knot. |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote:agree, its a great plan. Make sure to hsve a phone or radio, know the rescue channels and let domeone know your detsiled itinerary. unrealistic. down with unconcious partner? Extremely difficult, he will probably die in the process. STsbilize, let the experts do their job. up with unconcious psrtner? Impossible big no, call for help! just call, seriously |
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Em Cos wrote: If it helps you to wrap your head around it, imagine cutting the rope off just past the section you built an anchor with. You have an anchor, and a slightly shorter rope. (Actually cutting the rope is not necessary). What do you have to gain from building a new anchor, and transferring your partner to it, then breaking down the old anchor? You still have an anchor with a rope attached to it ... if i climb a 30m pitch with a 60m rope: rope anchor: I take in shy of 30m before putting my second on belay. If i want to self lower i have 15m available because one end is coming off the anchor and the other into the belay device.non-rope anchor: I have 30m of rope available (or as much as is left over after leading the pitch) for lowering or a u drop, etc. |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote: This is complete bullshit. This idea that you can manage a completely rag doll 200# climber safely up or down off of anything by yourself is simply not in the realm of possibility for virtually any actual rock climber by themselves.There is a reason it takes about 10 trained SAR members to accomplish lowering a litter. Have you assessed spinal cord injury? How are you maintaining an airway? etc etc etc etc etc etc. Stop spreading this garbage and take responsibility for being well and truly fucked and call for help. IF you can get them lowered to any anchor and protect their airway and maintain some level of stabilization that is all that can be expected. |
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Fran M wrote: down with unconcious partner? Extremely difficult, he will probably die in the process. STsbilize, let the experts do their job. That's so overly black and white so as to be useless. I agree with the "just call". Always the first step, as part of making a plan of what the fuck you're going to do. Sometimes that's stabilize; sometimes that's go down. Sometimes it might be cry uncontrollably and do what SAR tells you to. |
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NegativeK wrote: Tell me more about the completely unconscious people you have managed on a cliff face. |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: I just escaped the belay and it was easy. |
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Liam Hoefer wrote: Alright, I’ve built my anchor out of bomber pieces and used the climbing rope to connect them, let’s say two cams equalized on each other and a third separate, all connected with a bunny eared figure-eight for the sake of a specific situation. Now my leader gets domed by a big rock and is unconscious and probably having a bad time. What do? This is the sort of thing you easily figure out while hanging at a belay for 4 hours while your partner leads some long gnar pitch. All of your options are in front of you, figure it out. Or not. Not when you are wanking at a keyboard trying to imagine a solution. Every anchor is different. Every tool kit you have on hand is gonna be a little different. |
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Bullshit. |
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Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote: Bullshit. Except it's never ideal. There is nothing about improvised rescue that is ideal and it would not be realistic to assume that it is achieved even in a professional wilderness context. Leaving your partner to hang in the rope or sit on a ledge while you wait for SAR is also not ideal - so which risks are relevant to manage to support life? |
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Tammy Gueterman wrote: I’m willing to bet that I have considerably more training and practical experience with self rescue skills than most, and if there’s one thing of which I’m certain, it’s that there are situations in which self rescue is simply not realistic, or in which the slim chance of a successful outcome doesn’t justify the risks inherent in the attempt. Anyone who claims otherwise is fooling themselves. And yet we do agree on this much at least: it is irresponsible to venture into any sort of committing terrain without a robust toolbox of self rescue skills. |
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Regarding Dana's comment, I submit that being proficient in self-rescue and first aid is not about you, it's about your partner. At a roadside crag not an issue, but in the back country could be. I personally think that every climbing team that ventures into the back country needs self-rescue and Wilderness First Responder skill. Applies not only to climbing, but other activities such as glacier travel, etc. |
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Self rescue is when you tie the unconscious partner off and GTFO real quick right? |
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Fran M wrote: why not? Sounds like a great plan to me. Specially for the OP given their question (or for myself given my skills and desire to live). You always climb somewhere with cell reception and fast EMS? |