Skills to know before climbing long routes

Inspired by a recent rescue thread, what are skills that should be mastered prior to climbing a long multipitch traditional route (Red Rocks, Squamish, Yosemite etc.), or an alpine rock climb (Bugaboos, Sierra, Winds etc.)?

I think team members should practice the following skills on single-pitch cliffs prior to heading out on a long climbs:
1) Hip belay follower
2) Belay leader or second with Munter hitch
3) Rappel with Munter hitch and 'biner break
4) Improvise rappel anchors from gear on hand (and be willing to sacrifice rack to get down safely)
5) Descend in high winds (rappel while controlling rope ends, or lower a partner to the next anchor)
6) Ascend a fixed rope with material normally on hand (cord, slings, autoblocking belay device)
7) Assisted/buddy rappel with injured climber
8) Safely lower a second with an autoblocked belay device like reverso/atc-guide
9) Communication system that doesn't rely on being able to hear or see partner
10) Knowledge or tools to cut stuck rope and old webbing

What other skills do you think should be mastered prior to transitioning to longer climbs? Are any of the ones I listed overkill?

How to climb

11) escape the belay and transfer loads onto and off an anchor - munter mule etc

I’m curious why you suggest to be practiced with hip belaying a follower. I feel like any situation where you choose to hip belay, a munter would be a better choice.

I’ll add to your list: how to retreat off a pitch, mid lead, when the pitch is longer than half the rope length and the leader can’t just lower down to the belay. 

J B wrote: I’m curious why you suggest to be practiced with hip belaying a follower. I feel like any situation where you choose to hip belay, a munter would be a better choice.

Not always true.  Sometimes the terrain is more suited to using a hip belay, especially if you can incorporate the terrain to add friction.  Bottom line is any belay must be sufficient enough to manage the potential load.  Sometimes a munter is too slow to manage the slack.  Keep in mind we are talking about belays that could work for 3rd, 4th, and low 5th class.  

• Know yourself, your limits, and your competence.  Be honest.  
• Choose appropriate routes and terrain that match your competence 
• Time / Tour Plan
• Build strong anchors 
• Transitions, transitions, transitions
• Short Pitching techniques

J B wrote: I’m curious why you suggest to be practiced with hip belaying a follower. I feel like any situation where you choose to hip belay, a munter would be a better choice.

Mostly because a hip belay works well when the second is moving quickly on easy terrain, but also because a hip belay doesn't require an HMS biner.

1a. Read "Climbing Self Rescue"
1b. Or, VDiff's guide is pretty good too.
2. Practice those skills. A lot. Bonus points for taking an actual course.

Done.

For Red Rocks in particular, extensive experience route finding. Didn't realize how much of a crux this is for people until this past season where I saw many an off route shit show.  

Also, don't climb as a party of 3 if you can't do it efficiently. And for fucks sake don't hop on the most popular route in an area as a party of 3 if you plan on belaying each follower individually. Seriously, are parties of 3 the new norm? I saw so many new leaders with 2 followers this year in RR. Don't come from the east coast, having never done multi, and think you're gonna do epinephrine. It's only 5.9, ahahaha....

More than basic first aid, and some basic meteorological knowledge.

Andy Nelson wrote:

Not always true.  Sometimes the terrain is more suited to using a hip belay, especially if you can incorporate the terrain to add friction.  Bottom line is any belay must be sufficient enough to manage the potential load.  Sometimes a munter is too slow to manage the slack.  Keep in mind we are talking about belays that could work for 3rd, 4th, and low 5th class.  

That’s fair. I wasn’t thinking about low 5th class terrain when I posted. 

A willingness to grovel . Suffer. Suck it up. Deal with it. 

0) Press button on Spot

Knowing where, and where not, to pee.

How to solo, saves you from having to know all this bothersome list.

Attentive Follower wrote: Knowing where, and where not, to pee.

Knowing how to poop in a bag while anchored in

Jonathan Awerbuch wrote:

Knowing how to poop in a bag while anchored in

Is there a reasonable way to poop in a bag at a hanging belay? Discuss.

Crotch Robbins wrote: Inspired by a recent rescue thread, what are skills that should be mastered prior to climbing a long multipitch traditional route (Red Rocks, Squamish, Yosemite etc.), or an alpine rock climb (Bugaboos, Sierra, Winds etc.)?

I think team members should practice the following skills on single-pitch cliffs prior to heading out on a long climbs:
1) Hip belay follower
2) Belay leader or second with Munter hitch
3) Rappel with Munter hitch and 'biner break
4) Improvise rappel anchors from gear on hand (and be willing to sacrifice rack to get down safely)
5) Descend in high winds (rappel while controlling rope ends, or lower a partner to the next anchor)
6) Ascend a fixed rope with material normally on hand (cord, slings, autoblocking belay device)
7) Assisted/buddy rappel with injured climber
8) Safely lower a second with an autoblocked belay device like reverso/atc-guide
9) Communication system that doesn't rely on being able to hear or see partner
10) Knowledge or tools to cut stuck rope and old webbing

What other skills do you think should be mastered prior to transitioning to longer climbs? Are any of the ones I listed overkill?

How to keep a cool head when the shit hits the fan. All the knowledge in the world will be useless if you are freaking out.

asked: What other skills do you think should be mastered prior to transitioning to longer climbs? Are any of the ones I listed overkill?

Perhaps:  How to pass a knot when lowering an injured climber ( who can be lowered relatively safely; i.e. without further injury).  If you have 2 ropes, and can lower 300, 400, or more feet  there are a lot of 2, 3, and 4  pitch climbs where the two ropes can reach from top to bottom.  
 
 

Robert Hall wrote: Magpie79 asked: What other skills do you think should be mastered prior to transitioning to longer climbs? Are any of the ones I listed overkill?

Perhaps:  How to pass a knot when lowering an injured climber ( who can be lowered relatively safely; i.e. without further injury).  If you have 2 ropes, and can lower 300, 400, or more feet  there are a lot of 2, 3, and 4  pitch climbs where the two ropes can reach from top to bottom.  
 
 

What device are you using to post on MP? I didn't ask that question; I quoted and then replied to it. 

Ah you're correct...my mistake, the question was asked by the originator whom you quoted.

BTW your advice was "right on'...cool head(s) are key in any "bad" situation.

Robert Hall wrote: Ah you're correct...my mistake, the question was asked by the originator whom you quoted.

BTW your advice was "right on'...cool head(s) are key in any "bad" situation.

No worries. I like clear heads and precise language. But yer (not) gonna die if you make mistakes like this. Cheers!