New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #6

As an alternative to getting frustrated in the climbing gym. consider 2 days/week at a gym with free weights and circuit machines focusing on upper body and core strength exercises specific to climbing (lots of info on the internet about which exercises) and another 2 days a week with hang board exercises (get one for your home so you wont have to go to the climbing gym.  If you do those two routines, then you only need to go to the climbing gym to practice footwork and you can ignore everything else. Oh, and get some light weights for home use doing rotator cuff exercises, EVERY DAY!   

Lori Milas wrote:

Does this mean that if I make it to Oklahoma there are rocks like these to climb?  

And then some.......That little canyon is a place called "40' hole" named for a pool just up steam that's actually (you guessed it) 40' deep.

That beautiful little place is "chump change" compared to other parts of the WMWR but it was a perfect choice for a day out with 26 kids.

With all the rain we've had we were pretty limited on options Sat. Creeks that are normally crossable were impassable, cutting off access to a lot of crags that were higher on our list.

The road to the top of mount Scott has been closed due to wash out for a while and our group was too big for the Charon's gardens wilderness area (15 person group limit, and almost half of the public access part of refuge) but we made due.

Constine-style top-of-the-rock Gameface pic...... ;)

I’m hoping someone here can help with a question on guided climbing in Patagonia. A little background first.  Last year we took a trip to Italy to climb in the Dolomites, and since we are fairly new to the ‘climbing scene’ we looked for a mountain guide service that could set up our entire trip including lodging and a guide for climbing. It worked out great, and we had a ball. And we did confirm a few things; we need a bed to sleep in (our lower backs are well past hiking in with a backpack and sleeping on the ground), we love having a guide since we are not particularly strong leaders, especially on unfamiliar rock and routes; and we don’t speak any foreign languages (well...Freda speaks Swedish, but that isn’t helpful outside of Sweden).

So we’ve been kind of looking at Patagonia both because it has some incredible scenery and, reputedly, some fabulous multi-pitch rock climbing. We love multi-pitch trad, and Yosemite is one of our favorite places - although we can only do the easier stuff, I’m afraid. 

My research into Patagonia shows 1) there are a ton of Cerro this and Cerro that with climbing, but 2) it seems most of it is focused on the dirtbag climber, i.e. not much in the way of lodging, and guide services that are basically just ‘day’ guides.

So, my question is, does anyone know of a great place to climb in Patagonia with nearby comfortable lodging and supported by a bilingual guide service?

Bariloche is very close to Frey, and has daily flights from Buenos Aires and Santiago. Bariloche has all the amenities you could ever possibly need, and I'm sure that you can find a guide there. Although it is a good hike to Frey, there is a Refugio there, right at the base of the climbing. Most of the routes are in the 10 range, but go as low as 5.8.

Lori, what were you doing in Grove, OK?
My family roots go back to the Sooners in Grove.
Cool little town for OK.

Lori Milas wrote:

What is BHS-style?  

I'll be at my gym today again... just resigned to let this go.  We do have a chimney in the gym across town... and that requires very similar moves and exertion to get through.  But otherwise, there is nothing in my indoor gym that has what I ever encounter outdoors.  

But what's Plan B?  

On my last trip to Josh I noticed a distinct change in comments and coaching to me.  I suddenly have acquired some upper body strength.  There were comments about my pull-strength, and ability on vertical walls that I didn't have before.  So... maybe for this kind of climbing, some indoor work has helped.

  

Black Hills Style granite.Rushmore and Custer State Park to be exact. Spearfish Canyon (Also in the Black Hills is different—steep limestone. The foot chips on  near vertical slab wall approximate the former well.

Chris and Freda wrote: I’m hoping someone here can help with a question on guided climbing in Patagonia. A little background first.  Last year we took a trip to Italy to climb in the Dolomites, and since we are fairly new to the ‘climbing scene’ we looked for a mountain guide service that could set up our entire trip including lodging and a guide for climbing. It worked out great, and we had a ball. And we did confirm a few things; we need a bed to sleep in (our lower backs are well past hiking in with a backpack and sleeping on the ground), we love having a guide since we are not particularly strong leaders, especially on unfamiliar rock and routes; and we don’t speak any foreign languages (well...Freda speaks Swedish, but that isn’t helpful outside of Sweden).

So we’ve been kind of looking at Patagonia both because it has some incredible scenery and, reputedly, some fabulous multi-pitch rock climbing. We love multi-pitch trad, and Yosemite is one of our favorite places - although we can only do the easier stuff, I’m afraid. 

My research into Patagonia shows 1) there are a ton of Cerro this and Cerro that with climbing, but 2) it seems most of it is focused on the dirtbag climber, i.e. not much in the way of lodging, and guide services that are basically just ‘day’ guides.

So, my question is, does anyone know of a great place to climb in Patagonia with nearby comfortable lodging and supported by a bilingual guide service?

Contact legend Donini on supertopo. He knows all there is to know about Patagonia. 

Top Raven wrote: Lori, what were you doing in Grove, OK?
My family roots go back to the Sooners in Grove.
Cool little town for OK.

When I was in 9th grade my sister and her family moved to a former resort ranch in Grove that was situated right on a lake.  I moved there with them.  It was an idyllic time... we fished or water skied every morning before school, we had horses and cows in the barn, and I learned to drive an Army Jeep in the corral. (only in reverse.   )  I do remember though the day before we were packed to move back to CA and I was swimming in the lake... some kind of large snake swam up right next to me and scared the bejeebers out of me.  He got very close. 
 
That move lasted less than a year, but enough time to attend the one big school in town, go to a highschool dance, and have a lot of fun.  I've never been back... but I've been thinking about it a lot.  Seems maybe time to make that trip.  

the schmuck wrote: Bariloche is very close to Frey, and has daily flights from Buenos Aires and Santiago. Bariloche has all the amenities you could ever possibly need, and I'm sure that you can find a guide there. Although it is a good hike to Frey, there is a Refugio there, right at the base of the climbing. Most of the routes are in the 10 range, but go as low as 5.8.

Thanks for the info, we'll check it out!

Harumpfster Boondoggle wrote:

Contact legend Donini on supertopo. He knows all there is to know about Patagonia. 

Thank you.  I wandered over to Supertopo and found his name, so I'll see if he'll chat with us.  From what I have read, though, I'm not sure he remembers what it was like to only climb 5.9 :)  He seems to be a bit of a legend...and has earned that designation.

Lori Milas wrote:

When I was in 9th grade my sister and her family moved to a former resort ranch in Grove that was situated right on a lake.  I moved there with them.  It was an idyllic time... we fished or water skied every morning before school, we had horses and cows in the barn, and I learned to drive an Army Jeep in the corral. (only in reverse.   )  I do remember though the day before we were packed to move back to CA and I was swimming in the lake... some kind of large snake swam up right next to me and scared the bejeebers out of me.  He got very close. 
 
That move lasted less than a year, but enough time to attend the one big school in town, go to a highschool dance, and have a lot of fun.  I've never been back... but I've been thinking about it a lot.  Seems maybe time to make that trip.  

That's cool Lori. I spent many summers there when I was a kid on my grandparents ranch. Papa still preferred the horse and buggy when going into town. Took longer but sure was fun. Of course that was 50 years ago. 

Many days and snakes on the lake there. Good times.
My cousins and I spent hours fishing in crappie shacks on Grand Lake. Our mom's would drop us off and go shopping or whatever sisters do when the kids aren't around :) I'm sure John knows all about crappie shacks.

Was just there a couple of years ago. The locals all talk about how much it has changed. Seemed pretty much the same to me. 

Chris and Freda wrote:

Thank you.  I wandered over to Supertopo and found his name, so I'll see if he'll chat with us.  From what I have read, though, I'm not sure he remembers what it was like to only climb 5.9 :)  He seems to be a bit of a legend...and has earned that designation.

There is no "bit of a legend" in Donini. One of the more significant American Alpinists and Rock Climbers of the last 100 years.

But very approachable and he'll know where to send you.

PS. the stoopid topo contact member feature doesn't work you have to make a thread.

Grove and Grand lake in general has changed quite a bit last few years. Lot's of money going into that general area. Shangri La, Monkey island.

Disney is where it's happening. The rockcrawler scene has exploded. Don't go much these days since I sold my K5 tho......

You fish in crappie shacks? Who knew...... ;)

John Barritt wrote: Grove and Grand lake in general has changed quite a bit last few years. Lot's of money going into that general area. Shangri La, Monkey island.

Disney is where it's happening. The rockcrawler scene has exploded. Don't go much these days since I sold my K5 tho......

You fish in crappie shacks? Who knew...... ;)

I did when I was a kid. Safer to drop us off in the vicinity of adults than randomly on the lake. 

Definitely changes around there but to me the vibe was the same.
Awesome what you are doing with the kids John!

John Barritt wrote: Grove and Grand lake in general has changed quite a bit last few years. Lot's of money going into that general area. Shangri La, Monkey island.

Disney is where it's happening. The rockcrawler scene has exploded. Don't go much these days since I sold my K5 tho......

You fish in crappie shacks? Who knew...... ;)

Because this is so important to rock climbing... wtf is a crappie shack?  We had a little well on the property where I lived, in a shed, filled with guppies.  I cannot bear to think on what we did to those poor little guppies, in order to fish for  bass--but back then we were heathens and didn't know any better.  (I think it was bass).  But every morning we would go fetch a bucket full of guppies, take them to the lake with us, and fish.  

I'm guessing this has nothing to do with crappies.

I seem also to recall a large catfish that lurked around at the bottom of the lake, which I never caught... but sure tried.  I have never eaten a catfish. 

Another thing about my snake... a quick google says most water snakes in Oklahoma are not poisonous, however the cottonmouth is.  But the way you identify a cottonmouth is when he opens his mouth wide, it's white on the interior... looks like cotton, I guess.  And so I'm just wondering if this is an Oklahoma-type practice... waiting until the snake swims close enough, and opens his mouth wide enough, that you can identify it as definitely poisonous.  This is how we Californians imagine you macho Oklahoma guys do things.  That and the rattle-snake roundup video you posted...      

I'm taking a deep breath and 'goin' in' one more time this season to Josh.  Business takes me to Palm Springs... so how could I not?  

It's disorienting to think of mid-May as the 'end of the season'.  If I get the chance, I may swing through sometime during deep summer to see how the natives live, and see whether I could handle the summer heat as well.

Bob has promised to provide me with a Best Of slab hit-list for this trip... so I can train for that some day sojourn up Billabong. I don't need to ever lead Billabong... I just want to climb it.  Slab is Bob G's thing... he's the master there. I'd like to go inspect his 5.13 multi-pitch slab route (over on Saddle Rock)... one of many he discovered.    I wonder if any other slab climbers have experienced numbness around the big toes... I definitely have.  I thought it might be a diabetic thing, but my doctor dismissed that immediately.  It's just the strenuous load placed on the balls of feet and big toes in slab work.  

There's a boulder I haven't stopped thinking about.  It is over in Hall of Horrors, a huge round thing with a perfect crack from ground to top.  My fingers fit in there exactly right.  I hate to ask someone to figure out a rig for this boulder, so I can flail on it... but I'd really like the experience.  Funny when something stays on your mind so long... do we climbers bond with rocks in a personal way?  

Helen... if you're there... what are you up to?  Hope you're out having a blast...

I’m thinking if I can find him I’ll pay a visit to Todd G. He said to look him up and go climb... he seems like a cool guy. 

Lori Milas wrote:

Because this is so important to rock climbing... wtf is a crappie shack?  We had a little well on the property where I lived, in a shed, filled with guppies.  I cannot bear to think on what we did to those poor little guppies, in order to fish for  bass--but back then we were heathens and didn't know any better.  (I think it was bass).  But every morning we would go fetch a bucket full of guppies, take them to the lake with us, and fish.  

I'm guessing this has nothing to do with crappies.

I seem also to recall a large catfish that lurked around at the bottom of the lake, which I never caught... but sure tried.  I have never eaten a catfish.

Another thing about my snake... a quick google says most water snakes in Oklahoma are not poisonous, however the cottonmouth is.  But the way you identify a cottonmouth is when he opens his mouth wide, it's white on the interior... looks like cotton, I guess.  And so I'm just wondering if this is an Oklahoma-type practice... waiting until the snake swims close enough, and opens his mouth wide enough, that you can identify it as definitely poisonous.  This is how we Californians imagine you macho Oklahoma guys do things.  That and the rattle-snake roundup video you posted...      

Rofl.......crappie shacks (docks) are for fishing, but they can be a handy spot for teenagers to sneak off to for a variety of mischief ;)

I'll let you do the research, we have some pretty nice really huge heated ones here.

As for moccasins, they are black as coal to dark-dark brown. Pretty easy to separate from fun-loving harmless watersnakes with their mouths closed. They operate like sharks to some degree too. If there's splashing going on they'll head right towards it looking for fish in distress.

Occasionally we do pick them up and look in their mouths, just for fun though, not to be livin' the stereotype.... ;)

Still scared as heck of timber rattlers......

John Barritt wrote:

Rofl.......crappie shacks (docks) are for fishing, but they can be a handy spot for teenagers to sneak off to for a variety of mischief ;)

I'll let you do the research, we have some pretty nice really huge heated ones here.

As for moccasins, they are black as coal to dark-dark brown. Pretty easy to separate from fun-loving harmless watersnakes with their mouths closed. They operate like sharks to some degree too. If there's splashing going on they'll head right towards it looking for fish in distress.

Occasionally we do pick them up and look in their mouths, just for fun though, not to be livin' the stereotype.... ;)

Still scared as heck of timber rattlers......

You must be made of special stuff, John.  

One last memory of Grove.... we were the only ones on the lake who had an 'inboard' motorboat, and skied on one water ski--not two.  I was out skiing one morning, zipping along, when suddenly the fin on my ski sliced something long (like an eel) in two... both halves flew into the air, hit me hard, and drenched me in blood.  Between the water snake and the eel... the lake was less and less inviting.  You, on the other hand, would have probably considered them both 'dinner'.    

Now perhaps we can get back to the subject of 'climbing over 50'.  It's been such a long time since the subject came up...   

Lori Milas wrote:

You must be made of special stuff, John.  

One last memory of Grove.... we were the only ones on the lake who had an 'inboard' motorboat, and skied on one water ski--not two.  I was out skiing one morning, zipping along, when suddenly the fin on my ski sliced something long (like an eel) in two... both halves flew into the air, hit me hard, and drenched me in blood.  Between the water snake and the eel... the lake was less and less inviting.  You, on the other hand, would have probably considered them both 'dinner'.    

Now perhaps we can get back to the subject of 'climbing over 50'.  It's been such a long time since the subject came up...   

Probably a gar, maybe a spoonbill. Both edible, the gar being the better of the two (white flaky chicken breast-like meat)......water snakes not on the "live-off-the-land things to be eaten" list. Moccasins have a foul stench, don't think you could stand to clean one if they were edible.

Now, back on track.....this boulder of which you speak. Are you wanting to climb it alone but rope protect it. Or with a belayer?