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Anchor failure at Leonidio

Original Post
Larry Rossi · · Colorado Springs · Joined May 2008 · Points: 66

Does anyone have any more information about how this anchor failure occurred? I couldn't find much via Google.

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/deeply-inspired-remembering-kyle-roseborrough/

My condolences to Kyle's friends and family.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,852

From the limited info (he'd either threaded or clipped the anchor and was lowering off) why didn't any of the bolts below him hold?  or was this a 2nd lap and he'd cleaned the pitch already?

I couldn't find the "Clash of the Titans" (climb or sub-area?) in the Theodorpoulos guidebook in the section on Leonido, if it was new you'd expect the anchors to be good.

Very sad.  Condolences to the family.

Tao Techakanon · · Bangkok, Thighland · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,302

Subscribed.

I am very interested on hearing the report (if there's any) regarding the anchor's condition/material used, etc.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

So sad to hear, condolences to family and friends.

Total anchor failure is so rare. But if it’s a anchor failure while he’s cleaning the route, decking is totally possible if your anchor fails after you’ve cleaned the top few draws.

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Robert Hall wrote: 
I couldn't find the "Clash of the Titans" (climb or sub-area?) in the Theodorpoulos guidebook in the section on Leonido, if it was new you'd expect the anchors to be good.

Appears to be a sector "CRASH of the Titans" -

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=20187

http://wap.plezanje.net/climbing/wap/showCrag.asp?crag=1895§or=1560Lykeio (5c, 20 m)
Soul Sacrifice (6b+, 18 m)
Moonage Daydream (6c+, 15 m)
Child in time (7a+, 15 m)
Working class hero (7c, 15 m)
Beefcake (7a+, 20 m)
Contenance (7b+, 18 m)
Laissez faire (7b, 18 m)
Gykouli (6b, 12 m)
Gykouli Ext (7b, 35 m)
Helter skelter (6b+, 15 m)
Helter skelter ekt (7c, 38 m)
White Tufa (7c, 15 m)
White Tufa Roof Crack Ext (7c+, 21 m)
White Tua to Helter Skelter ext (P, 35 m)
Owl flash! (6c+, 12 m)
Owl flash! Ext (7b, 15 m)
Ex utero (6b, 15 m)
Inner smile into ex utero (6c+, 15 m)
Inner smile left roof Ext (7b, 20 m)
Serendipidy (7c, 16 m)
Perseus Ext (8a, 35 m)
Trash of the Titans (6b, 25 m)
Mnemosyne (6b, 25 m)
Titans in Tights (6c, 25 m)
Spartacus (7a+, 25 m)
Minka (7a, 25 m)
Choukaton (6b, 30 m)
Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

Ex Utero 5.10d is a sport route that ends inside of a damp hole, so the page on MP says. Possible risk, placing hardware in a wet spot that's not the best selection when being wet a lot? 

Larry Rossi · · Colorado Springs · Joined May 2008 · Points: 66
Paul Hutton wrote: Ex Utero 5.10d is a sport route that ends inside of a damp hole, so the page on MP says. Possible risk, placing hardware in a wet spot that's not the best selection when being wet a lot? 

Is that the climb he was on or is this just speculation?

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842

Such a tragedy! I've never met Kyle, but we have a lot of friends in common. It is heartbreaking to think of what his family is going through.

Leonidio being a relatively new climbing area, I would not have expected to hear of a total anchor failure. But things happen. :(

Brandon Fields · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

Following. Any details will help inform me for route development and spreading awareness.
Condolences to friends and family. This is the absolute saddest news..

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610

I'm surprised we don't see more bolt failures out there. Just think about what is actually holding them in, especially on an overhang. There's not alot of surface area taking alot of force. Not to mention there are going into an inconsistent medium that you can't see inside of.

I've seen bolts do all sorts of shit, from popping out of their holes because water gets behind them and freezes, to fall completely out because the installer didn't set them properly or their bit was old.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695
Tradiban wrote: I'm surprised we don't see more bolt failures out there. Just think about what is actually holding them in, especially on an overhang. There's not alot of surface area taking alot of force. Not to mention there are going into an inconsistent medium that you can't see inside of.

I've seen bolts do all sorts of shit, from popping out of their holes because water gets behind them and freezes, to fall completely out because the installer didn't set them properly or their bit was old.

Yep, it's all on the developers to everyone safe. Most people that get into bolting don't do it lightly though and understand the high consequences. Another reason why most are pushing for glue ins only.

Eleni Danesi · · Berlin, DE · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Hi everyone, my name is Eleni Danesi, I'm a member of Panjika Cooperative in Leonidio. Whoever has already visited Leonidio probably know about us. We were all shocked with the accident and of course first word and support from all of us go the family of Kyle.
But here I enter the chat to mention that there was NO Anchor failure at the sector Crash of the Titans. The route has been officially checked by professional climbers, and all bolts and the belay station are in perfect condition.  

It's very important in any case, to bring up the topic of "safe bolting" but in this case, it's also important not to reproduce a false report. Reminding each other of the rules of safe bolting is of high priority here, cause beside our team many other people bolt and we try to make sure that they re responsible and aware of the risks. At the same time, safety in climbing is also something that the community should focus on. Sharing knowledge and reminding of the risks involved as well as checking on each other, is very important.
I'm not here to tell you about all the technicalities involved in the accident but with the occasion of this terrible accident, to bring awareness of how to keep the community safe. The responsibility is on everyone's hands.
Thank you for reading this and if you'd like to be more informed about the conditions in Leonidio feel free to contact or visit us and support the community here.

Our condolences to the Kyle's family!!!

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Eleni Danesi wrote: Hi everyone, my name is Eleni Danesi, I'm a member of Panjika Cooperative in Leonidio. Whoever has already visited Leonidio probably know about us. We were all shocked with the accident and of course first word and support from all of us go the family of Kyle.
But here I enter the chat to mention that there was NO Anchor failure at the sector Crash of the Titans. The route has been officially checked by professional climbers, and all bolts and the belay station are in perfect condition.  

It's very important in any case, to bring up the topic of "safe bolting" but in this case, it's also important not to reproduce a false report. Reminding each other of the rules of safe bolting is of high priority here, cause beside our team many other people bolt and we try to make sure that they re responsible and aware of the risks. At the same time, safety in climbing is also something that the community should focus on. Sharing knowledge and reminding of the risks involved as well as checking on each other, is very important.
I'm not here to tell you about all the technicalities involved in the accident but with the occasion of this terrible accident, to bring awareness of how to keep the community safe. The responsibility is on everyone's hands.
Thank you for reading this and if you'd like to be more informed about the conditions in Leonidio feel free to contact or visit us and support the community here.

Our condolences to the Kyle's family!!!

Ok, so what happened?

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

8a.nu published a short note which is very similar to Mr. Danesi' statement:

Rock & Ice has made a nice portrait of Kyle Roseborrough who died in Leonidio ten days ago "when an anchor failed as he lowered."

It should be mentioned that it is not clear what happened as no problem with the anchor bolts have been reported. Kyle (45) was a very experienced 8b climber.
Tao Techakanon · · Bangkok, Thighland · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 3,302
Tradiban wrote:

Ok, so what happened?

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,908

Well, report is that what did not happen was bolt failure. Speculating that there was bolt failure won’t get us anywhere my friends.

Tim Lutz · · Colo-Rado Springs · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 5

If there was no anchor failure, then R&I needs to correct their article stating as such.

Kalymnos is dependent on climbing tourism and takes bolt maintenance seriously.

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,908

 An anchor usually does not include just bolts and hangers. 

James Schroeder · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 3,171
Bill Lawry wrote:  An anchor usually does not include just bolts and hangers. 

I was just going to say this. A bolted anchor can fail without the bolts failing.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

R&I now states it as a lowering accident.
RIP dude, you were a great addition to our (climbing) family.

Robert Hall · · North Conway, NH · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 28,852
James Schroeder wrote:

I was just going to say this. A bolted anchor can fail without the bolts failing.

Yes, rap cord & slings can fail leaving two perfect bolts.  However, the couple of days I spent at Leonidio (plus other days at other Greek areas) I never saw a single sling/cord at an anchor. Everything was "steel": rings or chains. Not saying they aren't there...just I didn't see any.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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