Petzl removable bolts
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Anyone have any thoughts or experience with these? @Jim Titt and @Dave Quinn, my thoughts were these would be a great option for a temporary top anchor for Glue In routes where I didnt have the chance to set top anchors the day before bolting. I've always heard the fixe removables only work well in granite or other hard rock, and they'd get stuck in sandstone becasue of the obvious. These look like they wouldn't get stuck, but maybe I'm just being optimistic. Also, is there an issue with a smaller 12mm hole being drilled out to the 1/2" standard? Being a woodworker, I have trouble sometimes pulling this off cleanly in wood, but wasnt sure if this would be an issue in rock with a hammer drill.
I've heard a small rumor of a removable system coming from Jim, so I don't want to spend $140 on these if the next best thing is coming soon. https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Anchors/COEUR-PULSE Side question... Can I safely work off of Glue In anchors that were installed right away, using AC100 Gold or A7 glue? I've always been worried of "breaking bond" by moving around on newly placed glue ins. Is that a concern? If that's not a concern, then the removable bolts wont be needed. |
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I've never used the Petzl bolts so no help there, if I want a working bolt then it is a wedge bolt. Never drilled 12mm to 1/2" either! |
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Jim Titt wrote: I've never used the Petzl bolts so no help there, if I want a working bolt then it is a wedge bolt. Never drilled 12mm to 1/2" either! Do you use a bolt puller to get the wedge bolt out, or is there a brand that comes out easily with no extra tools needed? |
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This means that those that follow will have to carry these or other like hardware, with really good eyes, to see the holes for those that place them on route? |
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I'd use Triplex with 12mm hole hangers for temporary bolts, they're super easy to remove, just loosen the nut and yank out with a quickdraw. |
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Ma Ja wrote: It becomes part of the belay or is left for people to puzzle over! What about the Legacy bolts? |
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Roy Suggett wrote: This means that those that follow will have to carry these or other like hardware, with really good eyes, to see the holds for those that place them on route? We are talking about working bolts for the developer. |
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I use the Climb Tech 1/2" RBs |
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Classic video of the designer of the climb-tech RB taking a whipper on one. Enjoy. vimeo.com/10674868 |
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According to A7's product literature: at 60F you have 7min to play with the anchor (0% strength), between 7min-35min the cure reaction happens, at 35min (100% strength). |
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I've used the ClimbTech and Petzl removables a lot. I like them both, but the Petzl bolts are more hassle free. I have had two of the ClimbTech bolts get stuck. Recent I was able to get one out by drilling around it to finally work it out, and it is was the trigger that stopped working..........anyhow. Only issue with the Petzl is needing a specific bit size just for them, but they work great in my experience. |
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Shaniac wrote: Classic video of the designer of the climb-tech RB taking a whipper on one. Enjoy. vimeo.com/10674868 That was a 3/4" RB I believe. I tested a few falls on a 1/2" RB a while back:I've used the crap out of the RBs for many different applications on several rock types with no issues. |
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There's a local guy that was sponsored by Fixe and got the RB's at cost and ended up getting all of them stuck over a pretty short period of time. Sandstone is not what they were designed for. The grains must interfere, or at least interact in the wedge and they get permanently siezed. |
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Have you heard poor reviews of the Legacy Bolt? Odd as I have used them with great success as temporary placements. I have never used the Triplex, mainly because of the poor reviews I have read on those. |
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Luke Bertelsen wrote: Have you heard poor reviews of the Legacy Bolt? Odd as I have used them with great success as temporary placements. I have never used the Triplex, mainly because of the poor reviews I have read on those. I haven't read anything on the legacy bolt, but just assumed it isnt reusable. |
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Ma Ja wrote: It sure is. |
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I'd say they are a waste of money. |
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Simpson Titen mini HD |
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1/2 cobra bolt then 1/2 wavebolt |
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Darren Mabe wrote: I feel like we've done this thread a few times Maybe so, but it helped me a lot. I wish there was a cheap option like the Triplex that are 1/2". I hate buying two sizes of bits for .07" of difference. |
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Ma Ja wrote: See M. Hanna's post above. The Titen screws also come in 1/2". I've used many 3/8" of them, usually for permanent placement, but occasionally move one to a better location. |