Climbing Shoes Recs

I'm starting to look for a new pair of shoes. Right now I have a pair of 5.10 Rogues that are too big (44, first pair of shoes) and a pair of Otakis (42.5) that I love. I'm looking for a moderate shoe, preferably lace, that can be my less aggressive pair for long multipitch, crack climbing, and easier stuff that I don't feel I need the more aggressive Otakis.

Keep in mind, I haven't tried any of these on, and fit will be the #1 determining factor. If you have Otakis and have suggestions on something I should look at, would love to know. Below is what I'm considering.

Sportiva (partial to Sportiva given how well the Otakis fit)
TC Pros - the obvious choice. Lace up, great for cracks, from what I've read great edging, won't be worried about slipping off smaller stuff
Kataki - lace up version of the Otaki. Only concern is might be too aggressive, but maybe I could size up a bit and give my toes some room
Katana lace - looks slightly less aggressive than Otaki/ Kataki.
Finale - not sure...doesn't look aggressive enough. My Rogues have basically gone from flat to upturned, which is what I want to avoid.

Scarpa
Vapor Lace - before I got the Otakis, I tried on the Instincts and they did not fit my foot shape. Curious if the Vapors have a different sole pattern.
Maestro - any of the models

5.10
Verdon lace - tried a pair of velcro verdons when looking to get my 2nd pair and they didn't fit. Not sure these will fit either.

Evolv
The General - looks slightly downturned, high ankles

TC Pros or Mythos will fit the bill.

Ted Pinson wrote: TC Pros or Mythos will fit the bill.

Mythos look like they fall victim to the upturned toe after some use, at least from looking at pairs in the gym...

Just get TC Pros. In your analysis you even admit they fit your needs better than any other shoe, why look elsewhere?

Yeah, i go with TC pros. The other all day crack shoe i like is boreal ballet gold, but they must be resoled immediately after purchasing. 

Depending on how different you want the shoe to be from what you have the TC Pro or Finale are a good choice for less aggressive and multi-pitch focused

The Katanas are going to be similar in aggressiveness but they are a fantastic shoe for thin cracks and steeper multi-pitch climbing.

TC Pros are the best all around option and the Finale is a good budget option.

If Otakis truly fit you well, tc pros probably won't... Too narrow/slanted of a toe box. Katana lace would fit better but you might as well just use the Otakis.  Finale is a little narrower fit but toe box isn't too slanted. Kataki is much lower volume. If you want a softer otaki, get the skwama and size up.. but they don't have much support for long multi pitch climbs. 

Scarpa vapor may fit but the toe box is a bit more slanted than otaki. Evolv general, forget about it.. they're narrow.

Took me forever to find a shoe that fit as well as my Skwamas but are less aggressive for casual climbing, vert, and long sessions. Ended up with sized up Ocun ozone plus shipped from Europe. 

km ba wrote: If Otakis truly fit you well, tc pros probably won't... Too narrow/slanted of a toe box. Katana lace would fit better but you might as well just use the Otakis.  Finale is a little narrower fit but toe box isn't too slanted. Kataki is much lower volume. If you want a softer otaki, get the skwama and size up.. but they don't have much support for long multi pitch climbs.

Scarpa vapor may fit but the toe box is a bit more slanted than otaki. Evolv general, forget about it.. they're narrow.

Took me forever to find a shoe that fit as well as my Skwamas but are less aggressive for casual climbing, vert, and long sessions. Ended up with sized up Ocun ozone plus shipped from Europe. 

Good to know on the TC's. After doing some research, Katana lace's are looking really good, but the price point hurts my soul. Not necessarily looking for softer (unless that helps with arch pain, which is usually what happens when I wear the Otakis for too long) but just something that a bit less aggressive, comfortable for long days, and I can use and abuse when I don't need the Otakis. Finale seems to fit the bill in the price dept, but the description and reviews of the Katanas seem to fit everything else. Great across the board, comfy, last seems similar to Otaki. 

Thanks everyone for their thoughts so far.

I wear Otakis and my most recent purchase was Vapor Laces.  I couldn't get happy with TCs.  I sized my vapors for nearly flat toes and I love them.

Have you looked into the 5.10 anasazi pinks? they just recently became my go-to shoe. great on slab, and for single pitch and longer multi pitch trad routes. they are lace ups, but I found, and others tend to agree, that replacing the laces would be a great idea as the stock laces to seem to break fairly easily from toe/foot jams

I too have a foot shape that seem to fit la sportiva shoes well, though the Muras fit me slightly better than the Otakis

I bought some TC pros for the same reason you're describing and the hype is real.  With the half-size increments you can really dial in the perfect size for what you want, from tight-and-aggressive to comfortable-with-socks.  For that reason I would advise trying a bunch of sizes on in a store rather than shopping online.

Tucker Mozeley wrote: I wear Otakis and my most recent purchase was Vapor Laces.  I couldn't get happy with TCs.  I sized my vapors for nearly flat toes and I love them.

Good to know, thank you! These look super similar to the Sportiva Katanas while being a bit cheaper. Any stretch to the vapors? 

I love my Otakis (women's version) but did not like the TC pro. They fit fine but its a very insensitive shoe and it feels like you're climbing with boots on. Don't get me wrong, they are awesome for cracks hand size and up but I found them to lack in the performance dept. when things get techy. Of course I think Tommy climbed the Dawn Wall in them so maybe its me.  

I also tried the Katana lace and so wanted to love them as they seem like a better performing TC Pro but they had a weird space in the front of the big toe due to how they taper. If they fit you then it'd be a great trad shoe.

You should also consider the miura lace.

Edit to add: Just go try a bunch of shoes on. Rock and Resole has a pretty killer selection last I checked.

+1 for the 5.10 Pinks. You always see high-end Brits wearing them.

The Generals are my favorite shoe. I liked a pair of Tenyas I wore once but the Generals will be the last trad shoe I ever buy. 

Again, +1 for the Anasazi pinks.  Great shoe.  I've worn out three pairs over six years.

Check out Unparallel. I like my Sirius lace ups. unparallelsports.com/produc…

5.10 Anasazi arrowhead

Freaking loved that shoe. Was my second shoe after some very tame 5.10 Newtons.

Comfy. Velcro. Great fit. Incredible edge. Just enough downturn. Was my all-day crushing shoe. Now I’m loving my moccs and actually climbing about just as hard. Funny how much technique compensates for strength :)

Yosemite bum had to tell me no more resoles on those bad boys a few years back 

Mike Palasek wrote: +1 for the 5.10 Pinks. You always see high-end Brits wearing them.

Do you wear them in street size or size down?

Chris Johnson wrote:

Good to know, thank you! These look super similar to the Sportiva Katanas while being a bit cheaper. Any stretch to the vapors? 

No, not at all.  But I did not size them tight, I have pretty flat toes in mine.

Honestly, go to a store wehre you can try on many different shoes to see what fits your feet the best for what you are looking for.   Sure, you will find out who likes what online, but your feet will be different than their feet.   I would love to buy a certain pair of shoes, but I need a larger toe box than they offer, so I settled for someone different. Try them on, especially if you are going to be in them all day climbing trad.  Having to take your shoes off at every belay to quell the pain of tight shoes is not enjoyable.