I actually didn't realise you mainly climb in the gym. I was tslking about if you top rope a particular grade outdoors you might be close to sports leading it. And yes, as was said, be careful of z clipping etc. As was said it's a common error for beginners and fixing that error drains your strength. I think endurance is often a key thing too, either working it by doing a lot of laps on top rope, (no rest between climbs) or even bouldering 4x4s, just laps of boulder roblems indoors (climb the problem, down climb it (reverse it) climb it again and repeat) or do a lot of traversing in the gym if you can...
I mainly climb wherever I can climb. When I'm home in Sacramento, it's the gym. Whenever I can get to the desert (like next week), it's outdoors. And this summer it will be in the Sierra/Truckee area. So it's way more outdoor climbing than a lot of people get... but it's still limited.
It has rained here for almost six months. I'm done with it. How's the weather in Australia?
Lori Milas wrote: ...No gym, no climbing! How's it going for everyone else???
After about 3 weeks away from the gym, I "onsight flashed" a new-to-me 10a this week:
It wasn't done with great style, but that was my first attempt. I kept expecting to fall off, so I think it's kind of soft for a 10a at Salt Pump. I also fell all over the 10d again, just before it was taken down.
Went out to Longstack this week to take a look at conditions - they're promising. We're hoping to get out there or over to Rumney next week, if it just stays dry for a couple of days. Can't wait!
After about 3 weeks away from the gym, I "onsight flashed" a new-to-me 10a this week:
It wasn't done with great style, but that was my first attempt. I kept expecting to fall off, so I think it's kind of soft for a 10a at Salt Pump. I also fell all over the 10d again, just before it was taken down.
Went out to Longstack this week to take a look at conditions - they're promising. We're hoping to get out there or over to Rumney next week, if it just stays dry for a couple of days. Can't wait!
Dragons
You are looking good on that climb. High steps, side pulls, shaking hands out, etc. Nice job.
Wendy and John, thanks. But: poor footwork at 25 s, foot slips off a hold at 2 minutes, followed by tap-tap-tapping. I cringed when I watched it. It should improve over time.
Hey dragons...way to go! You look beautiful on that wall! I love videos and pictures... they are such great learning tools. did you have a friend do this? --------------
I got an email this morning telling me that my little buddy (who doesn't know he's a buddy) Jeremy can climb with me on Easter Sunday. What I REALLY wish he would do is just walk me out to his favorite routes, and let me watch him climb. This probably isn't what he has in mind. What can I possibly ask during this time that will be of real value to me? I thought of asking him to take me to SW Corner... see if he let's on that there is ANOTHER side to that rock.
But just to be prepared... and as my contribution to this thread... there are a few slangisms that we should all know and be using when out climbing. (as per the conversations flying currently.... )
Pitched = tossed off rock The Nuts = a great photo shot Gnarl = Gnarly, of course Raw Dog = Not taping hands Spray me = hell, I don't know. Perhaps 'call' or 'text' me. Sick = Not sick (good) Dude = who is NOT "dude"? My son calls his three daughter's 'dude'. It's an honor. Bone broth = I TOLD YOU SO! That's their secret. I'm making a fresh batch of bone soup today. Seems to heal everything overnight.
climb 2 smile wrote: Wendy, Here is some research to support the benefits of beet juice. https://nutritionfacts.org/video/doping-with-beet-juice/
The book "How Not to Die" by Dr. Greger who founded the nutritionfacts.org site also includes that info and is just loaded with research facts about diet.
Oh dear, I just looked at a summary of his recommended diet. Afraid I'm eating to die. No question that eating what I like often isn't the healthiest choice.
Lori Milas wrote: Hey dragons...way to go! You look beautiful on that wall! I love videos and pictures... they are such great learning tools. did you have a friend do this?
Lori, I do this myself. When I start climbing, I mount up my cell phone on a tripod, and just point it at whatever I'm planning to climb. When I get home, I trim the video file so it's just showing the climbing, overlay it with appropriately licensed music, and then upload to YouTube.
I was a little afraid to set up my tripod at the gym at first, but the people at Salt Pump have been super encouraging. It's been eye-opening to see myself climb - very instructive. It gives me ideas for what I can do to improve. I plan to keep filming myself, and hope I'll see progression. You should do it too if you can - I highly recommend it! I'm going to try filming some outdoor climbing this year, too, but that'll be a lot more difficult.
I mainly climb wherever I can climb. When I'm home in Sacramento, it's the gym. Whenever I can get to the desert (like next week), it's outdoors. And this summer it will be in the Sierra/Truckee area. So it's way more outdoor climbing than a lot of people get... but it's still limited.
It has rained here for almost six months. I'm done with it. How's the weather in Australia?
Weather is great. Starting to get 'cold' (down to 18 degrees Celsius) next few weeks will be sunny and on the range of 18 - 25.
I'm all packed and off to The Gramps/Araps this morning, every I need for three weeks is in my little car.
Lori, I do this myself. When I start climbing, I mount up my cell phone on a tripod, and just point it at whatever I'm planning to climb. When I get home, I trim the video file so it's just showing the climbing, overlay it with appropriately licensed music, and then upload to YouTube.
I was a little afraid to set up my tripod at the gym at first, but the people at Salt Pump have been super encouraging. It's been eye-opening to see myself climb - very instructive. It gives me ideas for what I can do to improve. I plan to keep filming myself, and hope I'll see progression. You should do it too if you can - I highly recommend it! I'm going to try filming some outdoor climbing this year, too, but that'll be a lot more difficult.
Dragons can you tell me what kind of tripod you use? I would love to do this. I had someone who used to take a lot of pictures of me climbing and every one of them was so helpful and I miss that. I just don’t want it to look like vanity but you put so much darned effort into sending a route it would be nice to watch the technique that makes or breaks the climb.
I have so much fun watching kids boulder and I always offer to video and send it to them.
Set up camp for three weeks, walked to Trackside boulders and did the easiest V4 in the country, someone moved the "getting down off the boulder tree branch log thingy" so I had to shimmy down a tree like a koala to get down.
Back at camp now and young fellow I met a few years ago and have bouldered with a few times has rocked up with his father who I also met, cool guys. The son has his eye on a grade 31 sports climb on Taipan wall. Fuck!
Now I'm eating a weird meal I cooked (dried tofu, bok choy, dried mushrooms, turmeric, vegetable stock and a small tin of salmon) drinking 2006 Australian Chardonnay, listening to Iggy Pop and chilin'
Lori Milas wrote: Bone broth = I TOLD YOU SO! That's their secret. I'm making a fresh batch of bone soup today. Seems to heal everything overnight.
Love bone broth. Replaced my morning cup of black coffee with it about 6 months ago and never looked back. its my favorite part of breakfast!
Recent X-rays confirmed I have early osteo in several fingers, not sure if it will make any impact there, but certainly can’t hurt. Willing to try anything to slow the pace of it at this point.
I've been wondering what this kid Jeremy can teach me on Easter... obviously a little worried that I shouldn't have asked and it will all go south. But this video puts it all together for me. This precision footwork, attention to exact placement. So THAT'S where the gym coaching merges with the outdoor climbing--that's what we've been working on at PW for the season, choosing a spot and committing, watching my feet, moving feet up before reaching for next hold or engaging... that's what I can ask for and learn from Jeremy to take this a little further.
Who would have thought rock climbing would be such precision work? I may never come close to this kind of strength, but I CAN work on being precise and intentional. I would have thought climbing would be all muscle and brawn and bravado. What I'd like to ask climbers here is whether this 'style' is more a thing for Josh type granite... or is this just good climbing everywhere?
And while I get the value of exacting foot placement... could the same attention to hands make some of the impossible slopers and pinches more doable?
Dragons can you tell me what kind of tripod you use? I would love to do this. I had someone who used to take a lot of pictures of me climbing and every one of them was so helpful and I miss that. I just don’t want it to look like vanity but you put so much darned effort into sending a route it would be nice to watch the technique that makes or breaks the climb.
I have so much fun watching kids boulder and I always offer to video and send it to them.
Lori, My tripod setup is a hybrid. I have a Joby GorillaPod: https://www.amazon.com/GripTight-GorillaPod-Stand-PRO-Compatibility/dp/B01C7UYCWW/ - $41 It has a clamping mount which fits my cell phone. You'd have to check to make sure it fits yours. This works pretty well by itself. However, when you sit it on the ground, it's kind of low. My boyfriend already had an ancient camera tripod. It has the brand "Trikon" on it but I bet they don't make it anymore. Here's something comparable: https://www.amazon.com/Vanguard-Aluminum-Fujifilm-Mirrorless-Spotting/dp/B0132GJ9IW - $100 Our tripod is actually broken (the legs no longer lock), but it's still usable. It has extensible legs, so you can sit it down and get the camera up higher than just with the Joby. So I pulled the clamping mount off the Joby, and mounted it on the tripod. The mount screws match perfectly to the tripod.
You can get something cheaper than this setup, though; I'm just using it because it's what I've got already. For example, Amazon is selling a selfie stick with a tripod for $24: https://www.amazon.com/Fugetek-Integrated-Professional-Lightweight-Bluetooth/dp/B075WQYN3B/ I don't have one of those, so I can't recommend it either way. Just make sure the tripod setup is very stable so it doesn't easily fall over if someone taps it accidentally. Also, make sure your phone is in a protective case so that if it does fall over, it doesn't easily break.
So I'm starting to pack and a little worried because this is the third post I've seen this week of rattlesnakes out and about... in the very places we were just climbing. I'm wondering what I can pack in case of a bite. Would it help to bring a walking stick? This guy kind of concerns me...
I've had a few close encounters with them over the years.
Your best bet is to just watch out for them. Their first line of defense is their camo. Stay out of brush, grassy areas or any where you think looks like mice or lizards would hang out.
Second line of defense is the rattle, if they are buzzing vacate the area quickly.
If annoyed long enough they strike. Third person on the trail usually gets bitten.
Always take point..... ;)
If bitten get to the hospital, rattlesnake bites can be fatal but seldom are.
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