Help me decide where to climb (road trip from Wisconsin to Portland, OR)

Backstory:
My dad passed away fairly suddenly a few years back and left me his old sports car – a 2002 Z3 convertible 6-speed. It's been siting in my mom's garage for awhile collecting dust, so I've finally decided to drive it out to Portland (where I live) from Wisconsin (where I grew up). I guess I could do it in about 3x10 hour days of just driving, or I could take 5-6 days and stop at a few places along the way to climb.

So, Mountain Project. Help me out. Where should I go?

For reference, I climb sport in the low 11s and trad in the low-mid 10s. I'm thinking of making the trip sometime in May.

Potential route(s):

You MUST go to the Black Hills if you are taking I-90, you will go right by it.

Magical place, full of mystery and history. If you need a partner, I'll be there May 18-21....I could extend on the back end a couple days. I have all the guidebooks, and there is a ton of clip ups in Mt Rushmore. I have a full trad rack as well, but I generally won't climb trad with a complete stranger.

Sylvan Lake has many climbs that top out on very prominent formations.

Jaren Watson wrote: One of those routes takes you quite near the City of Rocks, which is usually quite lovely in May. That same route puts you in the neighborhood of the Fins.

Awesome. Thanks, Jaren!

Jaren Watson wrote: One of those routes takes you quite near the City of Rocks, which is usually quite lovely in May. That same route puts you in the neighborhood of the Fins.

Oooo! Yes! With your abilities, the Fins would be very worthwhile, if you've not been there. It's a helluva long way from everywhere, even by Idaho standards, so watch the weather and do consider it. 

Best, Helen

Buck Rio wrote: You MUST go to the Black Hills if you are taking I-90, you will go right by it.

Magical place, full of mystery and history. If you need a partner, I'll be there May 18-21....I could extend on the back end a couple days. I have all the guidebooks, and there is a ton of clip ups in Mt Rushmore. I have a full trad rack as well, but I generally won't climb trad with a complete stranger.

Sylvan Lake has many climbs that top out on very prominent formations.

Hi Buck! Thanks for the suggestion and offer. If I happen to be by there around that time I'll definitely let you know, and if we get the chance to climb together, I'm more than happy to just follow you on any trad route if you'd prefer not to rely on my gear placement/knowledge (which I totally understand). 

Old lady H wrote:

Oooo! Yes! With your abilities, the Fins would be very worthwhile, if you've not been there. It's a helluva long way from everywhere, even by Idaho standards, so watch the weather and do consider it. 

Best, Helen

Thanks, Helen. I keep hearing about The Fins and am super curious. 

Chris Fedorczak wrote:

Hi Buck! Thanks for the suggestion and offer. If I happen to be by there around that time I'll definitely let you know, and if we get the chance to climb together, I'm more than happy to just follow you on any trad route if you'd prefer not to rely on my gear placement/knowledge (which I totally understand). 

The northern route you have highlighted is empty through ND and eastern MT, I have taken it many times to Glacier Park. The southern route through SD and Wyoming is a much nicer drive, and you end up in the same spot in Billings I think. You will also pass right by Sundance WY, which is where devils tower is. So my advice would be take I-90 through the Black Hills and Devil's Tower. 

All great suggestions so far. I think you could make a reasonable route that would take you through the Black hills, devil's tower, lander (sport climbing at wild Iris or sinks), city of rocks, and the fins. Check out some pictures/routes and pick your favorite 3. I doubt you would be disappointed with any of those places.

dang, I've done this route a couple of times now. Definitely blitz the first part, and hit Lander (there's so much good climbing here it's unreal). Otherwise, it's about what you want to climb.

Sport: lots of time in Lander, City of Rocks, then cut south and catch Smith on your way home if you've got anything left in the tank. It's longer than taking 84 through Oregon but the drive is so much nicer.

Trad: Vedawoo in eastern Wyoming (mostly shorter, demanding routes), dip down to SLC for Little Cottonwood (way more climbing and way cooler than I thought it would be), City of Rocks, and maybe pluck an odd odd route near Baker City on your way home.

Bigger Stuff: if you want an approach and some alpine objectives, hit the Tetons and the North Cascades. Either place has a lifetime of options.

I'm from Portland but in Lander for the moment. Hit me up if you need a partner on the way through here or Jackson.

-Matt

Alright all,
Thanks for the suggestions! Here's what I have so far (below).

Climbing-wise, it looks pretty bare between Milwaukee, WI and Sundance, WY (not too terribly surprising). I may opt to go further south along I-80 instead to Denver, just to see friends. but that's still TBD, and I would really like to see the Black Hills. Looks like the Fins may be out since I'll be in a tiny sports car with next to no clearance and MP says you need 4WD, true?. Also, not sure yet about what's between City of Rocks and Portland (other than Smith, which I can get to anytime :) Matt, is it worth it to swing by Baker City on the way home?

Any other thoughts?

Thanks again! I really appreciate all the help. Trying to make this trip epic for both the experience and as a tribute to my man (sorta the road trip he never got to take, you know?).

If you're looking for climbing in between the Black Hills and Milwaukee look at Blue Mounds in Minnesota and Devil's Lake in Wisconsin. Those are both right along the route you posted. 

Forget Blue Mounds, it will be tick season, and the dream isn't 40 foot tall, which is about the max for most of the climbs. DL is nice that time of year with everything blooming.

I strongly encourage you to go to Mt Rushmore for sport or Cathedral Spires for Trad in the Black Hills. Even if you don't climb, just hiking around is cooler than hell.

Sylvan Lake also has a bunch of really cool trad routes.

The answer to whats between City of Rocks and Portland is not much. You might be better off finding a good place to go hiking during that stretch.

I'll "second" (or "third") the "motions" for: Black Hills, City of Rocks, and Devil's Tower, although the first two probably deserve at least 4-5 days by themselves. Devil's Tower has a "please don't climb period (June???) for native American religous-cultural considerations.  
  At Black Hills you might want to "scale down" your Trad-lead level a bit....pro can be a bit sketchy, esp. on "face" climbs (= anything without a crack, and then some of the cracks turn out to be just "indentations" or horribly flared).  That being said, there are some really "neat" easier climbs in the Cathedral Spires group done by the Conn's in the 1940's. Just look for the 3 and 4 star climbs on MtnPrjct.    If you get to Black Hills ("BH"), you should consider "doing" the Mt Rushmore Memorial ( 1-2 hrs should do it), it's really worth it for the history-and-photos in the "museum". Go early (at opening) to avoid the crowds, then go sport climbing "up the street".

 If you decide to go for a hike up Harney Peak (now re-named) be sure to start at the Cathedral Spires trailhead and NOT at Sylvan Lake.  The ratio of hikers is probably 100:1 Sylvan Lake: Cathedral Spires; and half of the CS "hikers" will probably be climbers. Personal opinion: Don't bother with Harney Peak but unquestionably at least hike into the "valley" north of the Spires.

 Granite Mtn Sports in Custer City (?) seems to be the "Beta headquarters" for the BH's. Get the small, "paperback" 20-30 page guide....it's got better Beta and great sketch maps of the climber's approach paths in the Trad areas than does the big thick "commercial" book, although you need both since the latter covers the sport area around Mt. Rushmore.  

Enjoy !

There aren't heaps of big ticket destinations between City and Portland, but there are some interesting locales to check out, if you are going by anyway. Depends on how fast you want to move and if you'll want some breaks. If nothing else, just to scope out your own backyard in Oregon, if you take a tour farther away than Smith sometime.

Best, Helen

here's the spot near baker city: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106030207/anthony-lakes
honestly, though it's just there if you're seriously looking to break up the drive. I'd probably opt to spend more time in fewer places, climb more quality and spend less time wandering around looking for campsites. 

matt hanrahan wrote: here's the spot near baker city: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106030207/anthony-lakes
honestly, though it's just there if you're seriously looking to break up the drive. I'd probably opt to spend more time in fewer places, climb more quality and spend less time wandering around looking for campsites. 

I was thinking of a couple others. But same idea. Just to check out to break up a long trip.

Best, Helen