New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5

Lori Milas wrote:

Don't challenge me on this, John.  You may be the far better climber.  But you still have me calling my banged up hands "manky"--it's stuck, and there goes the entire English language.     I think this is a general Mid-Western problem. Maybe specifically an Oakie problem?   

https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/diddly-squat

You misspelled Okie.......Cauliflonia girl..... ;)

Bonus points if you can tell what's in this Hunan-Lu'

John Barritt wrote:

You misspelled Okie.......Cauliflonia girl..... ;)

Bonus points if you can tell what's in this Hunan-Lu'

Oh god, tell me it's not... 

think i see a quill on that plate...   Actually, my guess is the meat is squirrel.  Yum

 Here is Kevin Mokracsik  having fun on a route we just put up today getting the second ascent  and whatever it is rated it doesn’t matter as long as it’s fun Arrzo You know exactly what I meant
PS Randy has said some wise words of wisdom  Lorie don’t buy anything yet  except the basic stuff needed to go with friends.

John Barritt wrote: I'm still trying to figure out who said 5.7 trad as a "limit" somehow makes you less of a climber.....

I don't think anyone said that, though.

@ dragons, I've never injured myself "pushing grades" in 40 years. I know when to quit, and or bail. At the same time there's so many routes graded to the crux that are 5.6 5.7 climbing with one .10 move if you just say "I can't do .10" you'll miss some great stuff.

I have injured myself multiple times using extreme effort on routes "above my grade". Once I get started on something, I do not know when to quit. I got fed up with being injured, and my solution has been to just climb at my grade (meaning, whatever seems doable, and doesn't require extreme effort). Downthread, cassondra long mentions "getting caught [up] in the moment". That is basically what happens to me. I started climbing again after a long layoff two years ago. This year, I started doing more serious gym training so I'd be better prepared for the outdoor season. It has been tempting to try routes that are over my head: a 10a, a 9, and the pink route (10d). I felt I was "pushing it" on those routes, and while fun at the time, that may not be a good thing for me.

And the gym? Top rope, let go anytime safe environment means you shouldn't impose grade limits on yourself. As H says cheat as needed.

The problem is that I don't let go - I exert myself to the point of failure, and then later on find I've got tendonitis or trigger points.

The pink route you were working, would you have gotten on it if the rating card was there from the start?

Knowing that I'd be unable to complete it successfully, no, I doubt I would have. I did go up a 10a that someone mentioned was soft (and sent it). However, I'm still not convinced that trying something which is that far above my level (the pink route) does me any good. I'd never attempt to lead something that far above my grade outdoors.

I've been nursing a sore elbow for 3 weeks. It's hard to tell, but I'm suspicious that this started on the pink route. I'm trying to decide whether it makes sense to return to the gym next week.

And lastly.....if you measure yourself based solely on the grade you climb, does one judge oneself by your personal best. Or what you climb currently..... ? Asking for a friend...... ;)

Personally, I don't "measure myself" by the grade that I climb, so I can't answer the question. However, I know that in my area, I can "probably" onsight lead any 5.6 that's put in front of me. Onsight leading 5.7 I'm not so sure about. If I am "measuring myself" in this respect, it's so that I have a good idea what routes I can onsight lead without getting into trouble, having to bail, or possibly injuring myself or dying. Around the Whites, the runouts are pretty severe and I wouldn't take falling lightly even if I were half my age. So in this respect, I "measure myself" according to what I can climb currently.

As a trad leader, I think grades are incredibly useful. Without grades, I'd probably be bailing off over 50% of the routes that I tried, which would get expensive (and maybe dangerous) very fast.

PS sorry if I misinterpreted your comment, Jeff.

Outstanding conversation. The one central thing I see here is each and everyone one of us likes to challenge themselves in their own environment.  Hundreds of different ways to look at technical rock climbing, thousands of ways to apply the techniques.  Summit or not, I am just happy to be here. I am even more happy about having the ability to fail safely. 

Talking of challenging ourselves, I know it seems a little bit silly to even say this but I did 21 laps of 'Extra G' (grade 21, 5.10d) today on top rope.

This has been a long term goal for me. I always thought saying I could do 21 laps of a grade 21 sounds pretty cool.

Sets went: set of 1, set of 2, set of 3, set of 4, set of 5 set of 6.

It was a great workout. 

Wow.  It's March and it feels like everyone is coming out of their hibernation!  Suddenly climbing talk, plans, travel.  Except for John... who worries me.   Probably looking for new things to shoot, and put into a salad or stew.

Just an fyi.  I'm heading for Josh March 12-24.  It could go a day or two longer, or shorter.  I am climbing a lot of those days, but could always meet up anyway.  PM me if you want my phone number to let me know you're in town.  I'm looking forward to meeting up with Senor one day. (REALLY looking forward to this!).  Going to see if I can find Jeff at his favorite spot.  

It's a huge challenge this year to be a full-time worker with home/kids... and also give myself space to be a part time bum.  Somehow, weeks roaming Josh, RR, Smith... if I can possibly do it... time to just 'be', and climb.  My heart is full thinking of hiking with my grand-daughters this summer to their 'beautiful place' in the Sierras--AND climb, AND have a semi-garden... AND spend some summer nights under a full moon where the breeze blows warm.  

I'm completely and totally frustrated by my inability to read a map and compass yet.  The Garmin is no better.  I have an issue... apparently.  So, that's on the agenda too before summer is out. I'll retake the REI navigation classes, and if necessary, hire someone to personally show me how the heck to do this.   ESPECIALLY in Josh, I get lost.  Fast.  

We've sat through months of rain, and now the snowpack is 160% of normal, and my lake and rivers are full to the brim.  So there will be some swimming this year.    No time here to shoot anything, John... so you'll have to suit up and do the hunting.  

 

Weather has been crap here for months. Abnormally wet, and below normal temps.
 It's 32 degrees outside right now and our normal average daily high is supposed to be 60.......

I'm actually headed to an outdoor expo this afternoon to "challenge myself" not to sit in my lazy chair watching old westerns......;)

I (like Jeff) detest climbing gyms, we have one in the old grain silos downtown that offers some really tall climbing (as gyms go) so I "could" climb indoors but my wild outdoor spirt always feels somehow smothered in those places. 

I've had the bike out some post deer season (I can always do that, cold or wet) but not feelling it today. Arthritis in the thumbs flaring a bit too.

If you notice I'm not on here during the weekend you can bet I'm up to something.

When the weather breaks I've got a few climbing outings to the WMWR planned. One scout trip and some outings to mentor a young man that was one of my scouts that's gotten serious about climbing. I promised his dad I would show him the way of the Jedi.

Y'all be safe and have fun....

Lori that was beautiful, about half way through reading your post I suddenly heard Julie Andrews sing the the hills are alive...

I would like to know what type of semi's you grow in your garden. I am about due for a knew truck.

I wouldn't recommend shooting critters in the spring time, they are usually thin and scraggly from surviving the winter. 

Lori Milas wrote:
I'm completely and totally frustrated by my inability to read a map and compass yet.  The Garmin is no better.  I have an issue... apparently.  So, that's on the agenda too before summer is out. I'll retake the REI navigation classes, and if necessary, hire someone to personally show me how the heck to do this.   ESPECIALLY in Josh, I get lost.  Fast.  

 

Josh is notorious for getting people turned around and the terrain is such that unforeseen box canyons and crevices abound where you lose site of the horizon and orienting features.

Good news is that the real mountains are far, far harder to get lost in because the canyons are so much deeper and typically filled with rivers. Can't get lost when you keep the river on one side and a mountain ridge on the other etc.

We'll work on it, Lori. :)

With all that work out Carl you should be able to onsight at 5:14 D ;) Don't forget to clean your lap marks off the rock before you go home lol, you could mark a piece of paper instead.

 Have a nice day.

I think I need another pair of shoes in my quiver.   You know...the downturned pointy ones that allow you to attach to tiny holds horizontally.  Pretty sure shoes are my problem.

Hmmm. Some posts are missing.  I'm wondering if my teasing got under someone's skin... sometimes I poke in jest, out of sincere affection.  But you never know how things are taken in writing... I'm writing with smiles and winks and often laughter.  I feel nothing but friendship and admiration for everyone here.

Yesterday at the gym, admiring the guy in the above picture, I realized that this winter I've seen some real changes in my own strength and body.  Maybe what Carl has expressed... just wondering if you are at your limit, I'd been feeling that too.  But no.  Working on the 45 degree wall... doing hard pulls and traversing, I was amazed that I could move up a jug at at time...twice the distance this week than last.  I've increased resistance on the 'assisted dips', and suddenly feeling some triceps.  So I guess what I'm saying is... geez, at 'this age', to be gaining muscle, strength, flexibility, and skill... in a serious way, is a surprise.  It was all a crap shoot for me.  If I were betting, I would have bet that with a lot of hard work I might see slight changes, but also much more fatigue.  It just ain't so.  I hope some medical techie is taking notice and working our reports into their voluminous 'studies'.  

Of course, then the guy half my age worked the same wall, only moved up on PINCHES.  That won't be happening for me...     What's also not happening, intuitively, is to drop that leg...

Rgold: your very first gem on the very first iteration of this thread:  "Another feature of age is that you are never entirely sure which version of your physical self is going to show up on any given day.  Some days everything aches, other days you are, or imagine yourself to be, as bouncy as you were in your twenties. There's nothing really you can do about this, other than to be tolerant with yourself on the high-gravity days and enjoy the low-gravity days as, perhaps, something a bit more precious than you might have thought in your youth." 

Lately, a stronger version of me has been showing up.  Feels really good.  

Lori Milas wrote: Hmmm. Some posts are missing.  I'm wondering if my teasing got under someone's skin... sometimes I poke in jest, out of sincere affection.  But you never know how things are taken in writing... I'm writing with smiles and winks and often laughter.  I feel nothing but friendship and admiration for everyone here.

I'm aware of one person who recently left MP altogether. Nothing you said, Lori. I enjoyed talking to him here -- just finished reading a book he recommended -- and hope he reconsiders. But, of course, it's his call.

Good morning love all the great posts on this well-rounded

wendy weiss wrote:

I'm aware of one person who recently left MP altogether. Nothing you said, Lori. I enjoyed talking to him here -- just finished reading a book he recommended -- and hope he reconsiders. But, of course, it's his call.

I've "talked" to Steve. He said he is fine, and MP is just not good for him right now. I was very, very, relieved to hear from him. Our odd friendship, never even meeting, means a lot to me....

As do all of you.

More later. Helen

Old lady H wrote:

I've "talked" to Steve. He said he is fine, and MP is just not good for him right now. I was very, very, relieved to hear from him. Our odd friendship, never even meeting, means a lot to me....

As do all of you.

More later. Helen

Good to know he is ok. Bummer he left MP.

Wendy, what was the book?

OLH.
I watched it unfold & felt bad.
 between the "Dog thing" & the Manufacturing thread, the view of the future of 'climbing' in the PNW, could seem dismal
I like to keep the faith that the 'good youths'  do not post-up much, if at all.

 I apologize if anything I posted might have added to Steve Prices' pullin' the plug.

I will miss him here & feel your pain

Please wish him A Grateful thankyou,  Calm seas & Smooth Sailing~ from me