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Doing it in the dark...

John Ryan · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 170
https://www.twofourhell.com

Twenty four hour climbing competition = tons of night climbing.  I've done 24HHH twice and night climbing is fun.  The only other times I've done it is when I've been camping at a climbing area and felt the stoke despite the darkness 

Yannick Lockhead · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 60

I go out at night regularly during the winter ice season.  The season is short so I usually head out at least one evening a week at a local crag and keep the weekend for longer adventures.  One of the challenges of climbing at night is to be able to see your feet.  Not all headlights aim far enough down but I've had success with my Petzl and BC Icon.  I also bring one or two powerful spotlights to aim at the cliff.  The ice and snow reflect the light and it provides nice ambiance lighting.  One interesting thing about climbing ice with the headlight is you can really see how cracks propagate in the ice when you swing your tool or place a screw.  You don't see that in the daytime. 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375

Wow, thanks all!

I expect to do about as some of you have stated: simply stay on some ropes, already up, some hot evening. I won't be the only one there, probably far from it.

Or, camping somewhere, again, beating the heat, sometimes, beating the crowds. My first multi, at Smith, the last came into play. We didn't climb in the dark, but it was night still when we hiked out. Just getting light when we arrived, and had company lining up behind us by the time we were climbing.

There's an event in August I am most likely going to, assuming I'm able to nab tickets next week! That time of year? There will be plenty of people climbing by headlamp. Being a climber at all, for me, means judging what is reasonable caution (I'm pretty cautious, being both old and a noob), and, me, letting my insecure nonclimber self try to talk me out of stuff. I'm not talking bravado, here, but wearing a tank top and sport bra in public, lol! Yeah, one of my cruxes. Head game.

For the record, yes, I'm positive I have had a thread or two or three where Frank was encouraging. Don't ask me which ones, though! Come visit, sometime, Frank. I'd love to meet you, fellow curmudgeon!

Best, Helen

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,375
swaghole wrote: I go out at night regularly during the winter ice season.  The season is short so I usually head out at least one evening a week at a local crag and keep the weekend for longer adventures.  One of the challenges of climbing at night is to be able to see your feet.  Not all headlights aim far enough down but I've had success with my Petzl and BC Icon.  I also bring one or two powerful spotlights to aim at the cliff.  The ice and snow reflect the light and it provides nice ambiance lighting.  One interesting thing about climbing ice with the headlight is you can really see how cracks propagate in the ice when you swing your tool or place a screw.  You don't see that in the daytime. 

Good points! I just think of how cold it would be, not just because of cold, but conditions, ice and  in general. A Facebook friend in Bozeman did a New year's Eve climb this year. Both toe bails broke. Way sub zero....

But, she was halfway up. Managed anyway, somehow.

Ice would be beautiful at night, though.

Best, Helen

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,174
F loyd wrote: I like night climbing. It is peaceful and adds a little spice to some boring routes.
Don't use an overly bright lamp, use an adjustable one. If its too bright a lot of features disappear.

And bring an extra headlamp for backup

Andy Eiter · · Madison, WI · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 276

I climb more at night than during the day, probably once a week or so, rock and ice. In the summer, I can usually leave work and get a top-rope set up before dark; in the winter, it's dark from the get go.

Some considerations (some have already been covered):

1. Bring a headlamp with extra batteries (I usually don't lead at night, but I have had a headlamp die on me while leading).

2. Put a little more care into everything you do (including walking to and from the crag; the hike sometimes feels like the most dangerous part); it's harder to doublecheck your partner's work (or your own) at a glance or from a distance.

3. Check when the park or parking lot closes and plan on leaving earlier than you think you need to.

4. Routes can be a lot more difficult to navigate; hand- and foot-holds can get lost pretty easily

5. Climbing at night can be way more pleasant than during the day. Cooler and less buggy in the summer; just plain cool to climb ice at night (especially climbing only by moonlight, since you don't need to look for placements as you do on rock).

6. It's a great way to avoid crowds and get on what you want to get on without feeling rushed. I rarely see another party out at night, and they're usually on their way out.

7. It makes the week tolerable and gives you something to look forward to other than weekends

8. It's spooky

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Old lady H wrote: 
For the record, yes, I'm positive I have had a thread or two or three where Frank was encouraging. Don't ask me which ones, though! Come visit, sometime, Frank. I'd love to meet you, fellow curmudgeon!

Best, Helen

Thanks for coming to my defense, Helen. I'm sorry about those two or three. :) 

Big B · · Reno, NV · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 1
DanielHart wrote: I’ve found some slab climbing can be easier by headlamp than full sun. Those little dishes tend to be easier to see with a direct beam casting a shade of a shadow. 

this^

Jeffrey Constine · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2009 · Points: 674

Early start on Wet Denim Daydream Leaning tower, 2 days.

Jp Arico · · Plymouth · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 5

Aside from using a headlamp, I also prefer to have a lantern chilling at the base of the climb for extra light and comfort for the belayer. Of course I'm not sure if this is a good idea if others are around as I wouldn't want to ruin someone else's experience. Another side note, you are a lot louder in the dark than you think you are, so it's a good idea to quiet down your chatting and/or whatever music you may have brought.

Brian Cooper · · Northern California · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 369

I climbed about 2 pitches of the West Face of Leaning Tower in the dark, not really by choice. It was super cool though! Climbing moves at a slower pace compared to other adventure sports, so a headlamp lights up everything you need to see easily. (As opposed to surfing or mountain biking for example. Things move so fast in other sports that doing it in the dark is tough.)

But yeah, night climbing on a big wall made me feel like I was on a little ship in a giant ocean. Just focusing on only the 10 feet around me, and surprising new twists and turns would slowly emerge out of the darkness. Rappelling into open space in the dark was awesome/spooky/fun. The cold was also nice since I was working hard and sweating anyways.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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