Ridiculous Climbing Gym Policies...Let's Hear Them

Zachary Ott wrote: Vertical Endeavors in the Minneapolis area has a whole set of silly rules.

• No headphones
• No bare feet anywhere unless you are changing in the locker room
• No climbing instruction whatsoever except by staff
• No taking off your shirt
• Everything MUST be stored in a locker or cubby
• No auto-belaying cracks
• "the Boulderer’s feet shall not pass above a height on the wall that is equivalent to the height of the shoulders of the Boulderer when standing on the floor"
• You've gotta be certified and over 18 to top out boulders

There are probably some more that I skimmed over or don't remember from the time that I climbed at their facilities.

Why are those "silly"? Some are really good.

enlighten me. 

Marc801 C wrote:

Why are those "silly"? Some are really good.

Which ones do you think are really good? In my opinion, the rules I listed are either ridiculous or just unnecessary rules in general.

Does nats off mean I can't smear on the face?

So much nuance!

Zachary Ott wrote: Which ones do you think are really good? In my opinion, the rules I listed are either ridiculous or just unnecessary rules in general.

• No taking off your shirt. That's a great one 

Zachary Ott wrote: Which ones do you think are really good? In my opinion, the rules I listed are either ridiculous or just unnecessary rules in general.

Disclaimer: the rules *should* be common sense and not need to be codified, but... 

I've bolded the ones I agree with:

• No headphones - distraction and can prevent good communication, the source of many accidents
• No bare feet anywhere unless you are changing in the locker room - toenail fungus and athlete's foot are very easily passed just by stepping in the same spot an infected person used
• No climbing instruction whatsoever except by staff - mixed feelings on this one, but I don't like noobs teaching noobs so I can see their point.
• No taking off your shirt - yeah, silly, but preferable for most people! Especially the ones that usually want to take off their shirt!
• Everything MUST be stored in a locker or cubby - sure, prevents yard sale clutter. My pilates studio has the same rule.
• No auto-belaying cracks - this doesn't make a lot of sense
• "the Boulderer’s feet shall not pass above a height on the wall that is equivalent to the height of the shoulders of the Boulderer when standing on the floor" - aka, don't go too high. A lot of other gyms have a similar rule, implemented by a painted line. It's very awkwardly worded but does make sense. I once saw someone land on their face from the top of the bouldering wall.
• You've gotta be certified and over 18 to top out boulders  - the intent is obvious, esp when the gym is hosting children's birthday parties, although 18 seems arbitrary.

Sloppy Second wrote: Does nats off mean I can't smear on the face?

So much nuance!

Monoing bolt holes will result in a ban

Are there others out there who started climbing in the '60s and are reading this thread shaking their heads in disbelief?

I hope the no shirt rule only applies to the guys,..

Zachary Ott wrote: Vertical Endeavors in the Minneapolis area has a whole set of silly rules.

• No headphones-- People with headphones or earbuds are often oblivious to surroundings, which can be a safety issue.
• No bare feet anywhere unless you are changing in the locker room-- Helps prevents injuries and the spreading of contagions.
• No climbing instruction whatsoever except by staff-- Liability issue. Frustrating, maybe, but makes sense from that perspective.
• No taking off your shirt-- Yeah, kinda silly, though maybe it's a fairness issue with women in mind. I doubt many women want to climb topless indoors, but more and more women are protesting rules and laws that allow men to go topless and women not to. See the recent complaints about Adam Levine vs. Janet Jackson. Anyway, I don't know who would be bothered by this other than male indoor boulderers 25 and under. ;-)
• Everything MUST be stored in a locker or cubby-- For cleanliness and for reduced risk of accidents and theft.
• No auto-belaying cracks-- Not sure why this is particular to cracks, but I think no autobelaying on anything but the set route makes sense because of swing risks and possibilities of collisions with other climbers.
• "the Boulderer’s feet shall not pass above a height on the wall that is equivalent to the height of the shoulders of the Boulderer when standing on the floor"-- My gym has that rule, too, though it rarely gets enforced. Again, it's a safety issue; shorter unprotected falls are usually safer.
• You've gotta be certified and over 18 to top out boulders-- To be fair, that doesn't make much sense to me, but it's probably an insurance/liability thing based on the notion that a juvenile cannot judge risk the way an adult can. I don't know.

There are probably some more that I skimmed over or don't remember from the time that I climbed at their facilities.

Most of those seem reasonable or good to me. I added my take in bold to share my perspective.

Robert S wrote: 

Most of those seem reasonable or good to me. 

Zachary Ott wrote:

• No taking off your shirt-- Yeah, kinda silly, though maybe it's a fairness issue with women in mind. I doubt many women want to climb topless indoors, but more and more women are protesting rules and laws that allow men to go topless and women not to. See the recent complaints about Adam Levine vs. Janet Jackson. Anyway, I don't know who would be bothered by this other than male indoor boulderers 25 and under. ;-)

Note that Zachary's profile says he's 24.   

Marc801 C wrote: 

Disclaimer: the rules *should* be common sense and not need to be codified, but....

• No headphones - distraction and can prevent good communication, the source of many accidents

While actually belaying/climbing with your partner, I agree. But while bouldering and autobelaying? Sometimes I don't want to listen to kids screaming and beta-sprayers.

• No bare feet anywhere unless you are changing in the locker room - toenail fungus and athlete's foot are very easily passed just by stepping in the same spot an infected person used

I'm gonna slip my shoes off in between bouldering attempts and while belaying. Sure I'll wear sanuks on their gross shredded tire rubber floor because it's disgusting but otherwise I'd disagree. People are gonna have germs on their hands and spread them to the holds, and if they are sick, I think that's way more likely to spread than minor foot fungus.

• No climbing instruction whatsoever except by staff - not necessarily good or bad, but it's their call

I've seen cases why this is the case, and for multi-pitch/anchor stuff sure, but I'd rather my friend not spend however much to simply learn how to belay from someone who isn't anymore qualified than the rest of the general climbing community.

• No taking off your shirt - yeah, silly, but preferable for most people!

I don't think taking the shirt off is ever necessary, but a rule for it? People are that offended? It's an athletic sport

• "the Boulderer’s feet shall not pass above a height on the wall that is equivalent to the height of the shoulders of the Boulderer when standing on the floor" - a lot of other gyms have a similar rule, implemented by a painted lines

I was thinking more of actual bouldering areas when calling this one out, especially when it's saying a kid isn't actually allowed to climb to the top of the boulder. It seems arbitrary to make it double one's height. Plenty of gyms have bouldering walls that reach 12ft.

Marc801 C wrote:

Disclaimer: the rules *should* be common sense and not need to be codified, but... 

I've bolded the ones I agree with:

• No headphones - distraction and can prevent good communication, the source of many accidents

X2. i can't tell you how many people have walked under me while bouldering

After a couple incidents of climbers falling from the top of the wall after forgetting to clip into autobelays, they installed belay gates AND you are now required to check with staff each time you clip in to climb.

Marc801 C wrote: Note that Zachary's profile says he's 24.   

Luckily I wouldn't call myself a boulderer.   

Zachary Ott wrote: While actually belaying/climbing with your partner, I agree. But while bouldering and autobelaying? Sometimes I don't want to listen to kids screaming and beta-sprayers.

See the comment below about people wearing headphones walking under boulderers.
 

I'm gonna slip my shoes off in between bouldering attempts and while belaying. Sure I'll wear sanuks on their gross shredded tire rubber floor because it's disgusting but otherwise I'd disagree. People are gonna have germs on their hands and spread them to the holds, and if they are sick, I think that's way more likely to spread than minor foot fungus.

That's not true. Foot fungus can last for days in a dry environment and be contagious that entire time. Toenail fungus can be passed from one person to another just by sleeping in the same bed.

I've seen cases why this is the case, and for multi-pitch/anchor stuff sure, but I'd rather my friend not spend however much to simply learn how to belay from someone who isn't anymore qualified than the rest of the general climbing community.

The gym is concerned about consistency of instruction.

I was thinking more of actual bouldering areas when calling this one out, especially when it's saying a kid isn't actually allowed to climb to the top of the boulder. It seems arbitrary to make it double one's height. Plenty of gyms have bouldering walls that reach 12ft.

Think about the fall from 12' for a 4'6" eight year old, not a 6' tall 24 year old.

Marc801 C wrote: See the comment below about people wearing headphones walking under boulderers.

I think I've just come to the conclusion that I'm salty about oblivious people and idiots and think they should do better.

 
That's not true. Foot fungus can last for days in a dry environment and be contagious that entire time. Toenail fungus can be passed from one person to another just by sleeping in the same bed.

Your point is valid, but I'm still more grossed out by grabbing a hold somebody sneezed on as I've yet to get foot fungus from a public place.

Think about the fall from 12' for a 4'6" eight year old, not a 6' tall 24 year old.

Most people, including myself, are not 6'. Think about the 5' 0" female climber. Plus kids are bouncy and flexible. They haven't torn both their ACLs like I have. 

Zachary Ott wrote: Plenty of gyms have bouldering walls that reach 12ft.

SCC in CSprings is 15ft at the tallest prow. (23' long with the overhang.

Edit: the person in the photo is the owner at over 6'

Of course I know you can climb whatever and don't have to follow the holds if you wish. I also know the point of route setting which is why I try to climb routes as the setter intends . My complaint is that the abundance of cracks and features is poorly utilized.

Marc801 C wrote: .Think about the fall from 12' for a 4'6" eight year old, not a 6' tall 24 year old.

It's a bigger fall, but their smaller mass makes a big difference, not to mention their springier young bodies. My 9yo has no qualms blowing the last move at 12' or 13', because the fall isn't a big deal to him.

Loyd Wofford III wrote: I agree with the rule of no auto belaying cracks, especially deep fingers or anywhere a foot could get caught in the crack, can you imagine falling on an auto Belay and had your foot jam stick as your hands pop out of the crack? We never set the auto Belay where our natural cracks are 

That's funny - I think the auto belays in Ascent in Fort Collins are set mostly where the cracks are.