New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #5

Lori Milas wrote: Apparently Bob Gaines was William Shatner's climbing double in Star Trek V.

You saw the Alex Honnold talks about movie climbing, thing, right? He was most complimentary about the climbing in the Star Trek movie. Funny that Bob was the stunt double. 

This morning I woke up thinking about a climb in Josh that was beyond me because I didn't have the body-knowledge to get up and over a lip.  I keep forgetting that J Tree does have climbs other than sheer slab.  I floundered a long time before I was up and over it.

So... working on the same type of climbs over and over and using the same muscles has its limits... it's time to change it up.  It's clear to me that there's no way around solid workouts now.  A few days on the 45 degree wall at PW used muscles in my back I never knew I had.  So what can I (we) do in the gym between now and March (and on into the climbing season) to gain the most increase in strength and endurance to be ready to kick it up a notch?  The next time I greet this climb I'd like to sail over that lip. (roof, ceiling... whatever).

For sure bouldering (safely, low to the ground) is back in.  Is there any way around it?  

'Just when I thought I was out they pull me back in.'     (my thoughts on the bouldering situation)
The lip...

I know I'm a broken record about this, but the trick to getting over roofs is almost never brute force. Typically, finding the right foot placement in just the perfect spot to create a fulcrum is key. Good news is that your work on overhanging boulder routes will really help your footwork.

Randy wrote:

Coming from the near Paleolithic era, for a long time, I found it possible to continue to improve my climbing. Climbing gyms and regular training were a big part of that. In my mid 50s, I was climbing harder than ever. It really wasn't until I hit my 60s that I noticed that the slow decline in power (and some other disabilities) probably put a cap on how hard I could climb. Technique and slight of hand make it possible to still climb at a respectable level, but routes I might project ten years ago are probably permanently out of reach.

Paleolithic! Ha I like that..... I figure if you climbed with a rope tied around your waist you qualify for this title. 

I’m like Randy and for me keeping up with the hardest grades ( really the best climbs) was a matter of using new gear and shoes and doing regular training. I hit my personal zenith at 52 then physical injuries kicked in. Now at 66 I have no need to climb if I don’t choose to. I was out with E last week, it was 42f with very gusty winds, he fed his rat,  but I was content to sit and belay him and look at the fresh snow piled up at the base of the turbines and marvel at the approach of the black snow clouds.... i now must be warm to really enjoy climbing. 
Lori might see you in March at JT, I have Karting almost every weekend and will be returning from Tucson, passing through Josh about then. 
This amazing journey- life- continues to roll along at an amazing pace! 

null

E one of my climbing heroes. He leads the life and has never looked back. A friend of 46 years now. 

Looking at climbing in Robinson Park in Minnesota, This was posted on a climb description: "Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes."  ​13 Quantum Order​​​

Anybody know what "Drytooling" is?

Señor Arroz wrote: I know I'm a broken record about this, but the trick to getting over roofs is almost never brute force. Typically, finding the right foot placement in just the perfect spot to create a fulcrum is key. Good news is that your work on overhanging boulder routes will really help your footwork.

Not a broken record at all Senor. I do recall some hanging on this edge while trying to get a leg up and over.  In a detached way, it’s just a curiosity to me what an older body needs to acquire to begin a completely new physical endeavor.  I think I’m on top of it, and then there’s more.    

“Lori might see you in March at JT, I have Karting almost every weekend and will be returning from Tucson, passing through Josh about then.” 
Guy, it would be a pleasure. 

Dallas R wrote: Looking at climbing in Robinson Park in Minnesota, This was posted on a climb description: "Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes."  13 Quantum Order

Anybody know what "Drytooling" is?

Climbing a rock climb with ice tools.

Dallas R wrote: Looking at climbing in Robinson Park in Minnesota, This was posted on a climb description: "Prefer no drytooling here. Drytooling destroys routes."  13 Quantum Order

Anybody know what "Drytooling" is?

Drytooling is a method to make rock of dubious quality even sketchier, while hanging upside down executing impossibly athletic moves with sharp pointy things in both hands. 

I haven't had a chance to try it....yet....

But I'd like to.

:-)

Dallas R wrote:

Anybody know what "Drytooling" is?

Mike Pence is a closet Dry Tooler

Old lady H wrote:

Drytooling is a method to make rock of dubious quality even sketchier, while hanging upside down executing impossibly athletic moves with sharp pointy things in both hands. 

I haven't had a chance to try it....yet....

But I'd like to.

:-)

H... you forgot to add.... and everything is covered in a thin layer of crappy ice, and ice water is dripping on your head! 

Guy Keesee wrote:

null

E one of my climbing heroes. He leads the life and has never looked back. A friend of 46 years now. 

E is the Man (the Dude, or whatever superlative you wish to anoint).

Jeffrey Constine wrote:

Really? On that pretty rock? That's just nasty...

Guy Keesee wrote:

H... you forgot to add.... and everything is covered in a thin layer of crappy ice, and ice water is dripping on your head! 

No, no, no, my dear sir...you are describing mixed climbing, an even higher level of masochistic bliss. 

Haven't done that yet, either.

EDIT to add:

:-)

Lori Milas wrote:

Carl... I like everyone's response. I'll add mine.  I've already had some slumps in climbing when I wonder if I'm losing interest.  But I think that happens when I feel stuck and think I won't improve.

Amazing how one small victory can change your whole mindset.  All I needed was to get my confidence back.  

Before Christmas I was working too hard, trying too hard, and realized I was still climbing 10b's and c's.  (I don't know what that is in Australia where everything is whonky).  I just thought, this is it. This is all I'll ever do, so why try?  One day I just had a great day, realized progress was/is happening, and it got me back in the game.  So, maybe you need a good win.  AND... to remember why it is you climb.  All the workouts are so you can have a great day outside, right?

Thanks for that.  Yes, everything down here is wonky.  10b, c is about grade 19 to 20 I reckon.  I'm generally at that level or a tad higher (23).  I'm not massively fussed about not progressing anymore, as long as I can have fun.  That's not to say I don't WANT to progress, but I think I need to be realistic.  In the last few weeks I've gained two kilos.  So I'm up from a low of 62.9 kilos to 64.8 at the moment.  That makes me nowhere near FAT at 169cm but I do feel I was too skinny before and had lost some power...

Old lady H wrote: EDIT to add:

:-)

LOL, back in our early days we played with a lot of gear, even bought some hooks. 

But when Barb got her hands on the Ice axe she got kind of a weird gleam in her eye, similar to Helen's.  I told her we had already spent to much money and had to put them back, it was touch and go there for a few seconds, but she reluctantly put them back, I did catch looking over her shoulder as we left the store.  

We will not be drytooling….

Healyje, The place is an old Quarry in Japan, this wall is devoted to Dry tooling. So get over it.

 E is the Best all around climber in CA. 8000m mountains Ice Rock Trad Sport, no gyms. Tons of FA's/
 no gyms. Friend for over 30 years.

Just to resume discussion of something integral to climbing... these are porcupettes ie. baby porcupines.  Not for soup or stew.