Alpine Harness Help

Did some digging & still not really finding the answers to a few questions. Also, if anyone has suggestions for a harness that fits my needs better, lets hear it.

Looking for a very lightweight, < 8 or 9 oz. alpine/ski mountaineering harness that can also still be used for some ice climbing & moderate alpine trad. I've narrowed it down to two harnesses for the most part, and leaning towards the Mammut Zephir Altitude as its only 7.5oz, has ice clipper slots, and drop seat/leg loop clips. My only concern with this harness is the single hard point for tying into the harness on lead, should this be something to worry about? I have only owned harnesses with two hard points, so no first hand experience with this. Assuming it is a non-issue, do I tie in as normal - going through the single hard point and then behind the waist belt? Or use bowline/fig-8 on a bight to a carabiner and lock onto the belay loop?

Other harness is the BD Vision. Also very lightweight at 7.9oz, ice clipper slots, two hard-points & has 4 gear loops vs 2 on the Altitude. Only drawbacks with this harness is no drop-seat/leg loop clips, along with a price tag over twice that of the Altitude currently.

Thx!

Without leg-loop clips a harness is a pain to put on with large boots, and really a pain to put on with large boots that already have crampons on (i.e. from the approach). Basically you have to take off the crampons.   Looks like the BD Vision doesn't seem to have 'em from the BD photo on their website.  Check the Alpine Bod or even the Couloir.  I've used the Couloir both for summer alpine and easy winter ice (carrying only 4-5 screws) and it works.  Packs really small.

Don't know about Mammut's, but they make good stuff.

New blueice harnesses (addax) coming out this spring will be very light and do what you’re asking! They’re similar to the petzl sitta (light padding, full gear loops, ice clipper slots, etc...) the difference is the blue ice ones will be ~4.9oz while the petzl is 9.3oz.  For what it’s worth, I use a full harness for rock and ice but use a super light harness (camp alp racing)for alpine ice and rack on my backpack which has gear loops and clipper slots. All I need my harness for is to catch me and be low profile and comfy under my pack.  

I have eyed the BD Couloir as well & seems pretty much identical to the Mammut Altitude, just based on reviews it seems the Mammut's might be slightly more comfortable. I'll have to take a look at the Blueice harnesses as well. Rober/Porter, are you able to ease my concern with only having the 1 hard-point & how you then tie in on lead?

You might consider a Singing Rock harness.  The Flake looks like it might hit your needs with the weight.  I am not sure how the leg loops work, but the main buckle completely comes apart, making the harness very easy to put on and take off.  The other harnesses have the same feature for the leg loops, so I can take my harness off or put it on without ever lifting my leg off the ground, but they weight more that your limit.  It looks like the Flake has a generous leg loop that cinches down with quick connects.  Again, I don't have this harness, but I like the one I do have.

https://www.singingrock.com/flake?cat=2099

If you were just doing a little belaying or a rap or two skimo style than yeah get a floss diaper harness.

But since you are planning on doing actual rock/alpine/ice climbing get a real harness with leg loops and adjustable buckles.  

You can't seriously tell me that the 1.93oz weight savings (never mind the extra cost) is worth the loss of comfort and function.  1 or 2 meters of a climbing rope is the weight difference you are talking about.

Diaper style harnesses (looks like the BOD) are famous for not being comfortable to hang in and the worst case is testicular torsion (have seen this).  You fall into a crevasse and you might have some time (and weight) to think about it.  

I have an Edelrid Wing and love it for everything from sport to ice to long long routes.  It's compact and comfortable.

T A wrote: I have eyed the BD Couloir as well & seems pretty much identical to the Mammut Altitude, just based on reviews it seems the Mammut's might be slightly more comfortable. I'll have to take a look at the Blueice harnesses as well. Rober/Porter, are you able to ease my concern with only having the 1 hard-point & how you then tie in on lead?

I tie straight into the single tie in point, the only issue is that when I’m tied into twins I can’t fit my belay biner into the tie in point because it’s so small. I think the floss diaper harnesses are great for when it’s very likely you won’t weight it. Otherwise, a full harness is nice. I’ve rappelled quite a bit in the alp racing harness and it does not feel good, but the the fact that it pack around the size of a mini orange and I can’t even feel that I’m wearing it are worth the trade off given that it’s not my only harness. 

There isn't a one-shoe-fits solution.  An ultra-light alpine harness will rack like shit, regardless of gear loops.  I rack on my pack with this style harness and use a real harness when I'm not concerned with the weight or bulk (cragging).  Do not invest in a harness for the big mountains without a drop seat and adjustable leg loops.  Some sort of speed buckle helps too- you have to be able to get in and out of these things when you're damn cold, wearing gloves, and all suited-up.  Ability to remove the harness --and put it on-- when you're wearing crampons is very helpful.  

Blueice was already mentioned.  Look into their stuff when it's available, quite impressive.

check out the Petzl Altitude, it has been great for alpine climbs

I mostly like the Camp Alpine Flash. The original Air CR was more comfortable, though.