More Autobelays bite the dust.

My gym stopped selling hot coffee and nitro cold brew coffee. But they installed an auto belay on the 15 meter speed wall. So there's balance in the universe.

JFM wrote: Also I’m sad that we need those stupid triangle things at the bottoms of the autobelays. 

this makes them legal if you want to take em for a ride down the highway

I didn’t read the whole thread, but I don’t think rockre costa Mesa has gear loops on their rental harnesses. Not sure about Santa Monica.

I loved the auto belays, without them I’m thinking of switching to sender. I don’t see an advantage to staying at rockre aside from my friends climb there. 

Danny Sandoval wrote: I didn’t read the whole thread, but I don’t think rockre costa Mesa has gear loops on their rental harnesses. Not sure about Santa Monica.

I loved the auto belays, without them I’m thinking of switching to sender. I don’t see an advantage to staying at rockre aside from my friends climb there. 

Sender doesn't have autos either. So, autos are the only reason you have stayed with Rockre?

I think autobelays are a big deal if you're climbing to train, as opposed to social gym climbing.

Tradiban wrote:

Sender doesn't have autos either. So, autos are the only reason you have stayed with Rockre?

They have them now on the speed walls.

One of the scariest things I saw at S1 were a couple of kids who escaped from the kids area and decided to clip into the top ropes as if they were autobelays.  I saw them, stopped them before they got too high up on the wall and sent them back to their area.  Those could have been bad accidents.

Matt Himmelstein wrote:

They have them now on the speed walls.

One of the scariest things I saw at S1 were a couple of kids who escaped from the kids area and decided to clip into the top ropes as if they were autobelays.  I saw them, stopped them before they got too high up on the wall and sent them back to their area.  Those could have been bad accidents.

Yikes! That seems like one good benefit of gyms that require people to tie into the top ropes, rather than having fixed biners and grigris. No way to mistake a TR for an autobelay since there’s no biner to just clip into

Autobelays just seem like wasted space (speed walls too). There's never any routes where they are, just a smattering of holds.

Don't get me started on how dumb speed climbing is.

Tradiban wrote: Autobelays just seem like wasted space (speed walls too). There's never any routes where they are, just a smattering of holds.

That makes 0 sense. Routes on the wall is a function of the setters, not the existence of autobelays. I personally enjoy taking laps on autobelays. You just can't turn the brain off.

Not really related, but noticed this is what the tope rope setup at my gym consists of:

Super burly closed loop. Beer is sold on premise, and there isn't any belay tests. Just a funny video playing on repeat that shows a wincing time traveler correcting belay technique after witnessing multiple gruesome accidents.

I trust a human with experience and morals over an auto belay

Phil Lauffen wrote: That makes 0 sense. Routes on the wall is a function of the setters, not the existence of autobelays. I personally enjoy taking laps on autobelays. You just can't turn the brain off.

Not really related, but noticed this is what the tope rope setup at my gym consists of:

Super burly closed loop. Beer is sold on premise, and there isn't any belay tests. Just a funny video playing on repeat that shows a wincing time traveler correcting belay technique after witnessing multiple gruesome accidents.

Use yer brain. The existence of autobelays is mostly used for laps, most gyms don't set routes for autobelay sections, they just throw a bunch of holds up.

Speed climbing sections typically have the speed route and nothing else, which serves like 1% of the community.

Ryan Pfleger wrote: I think autobelays are a big deal if you're climbing to train, as opposed to social gym climbing.

I don't know what kind of routes/setting you have on autobelays at your gym, but around here autobelays are on vertical walls, with easy juggy routes, so not much use for ARCing at all.

Eric wrote: I had this image of Fat Dad as that smug kid in just about every law school class who's convinced he's smarter than everyone else.

Every kid in every law school class is convinced he's smarter than everyone else. The point of law school is teaching them they're not.

Lena chita wrote:

I don't know what kind of routes/setting you have on autobelays at your gym, but around here autobelays are on vertical walls, with easy juggy routes, so not much use for ARCing at all.

It sounds like a lot of gyms autobelays suck.  The gyms I go to set good routes on the autobelauy, typically each autobelay has 3 or 4 routes, one easy juggy route, one 5.10, one 5.11, and one 5.12, so it ends up working really well for ARCing.  I do wish the routes could be a bit steeper, but unfortunately, you can't have an autobelay on anything much beyond vertical.

Tradiban wrote: 
Don't get me started on how dumb speed climbing is.

Just how dumb is speed climbing?

Lena chita wrote:

I don't know what kind of routes/setting you have on autobelays at your gym, but around here autobelays are on vertical walls, with easy juggy routes, so not much use for ARCing at all.

Out of 6 autobelays here, I think only 1 is on a vertical or less than vertical wall. We don't have huge roofs or anything, but everything else is at least a little overhanging with a couple sections having legit steep sections. I don't think I've ever seen anything harder than a 5.12+, but there are lots of 9s 10s and 11s. This is good for me, as I can't really ARC train on anything harder than easy 5.10 anyway, unless it really is vertical or less. 

Tradiban wrote:

Use yer brain. The existence of autobelays is mostly used for laps, most gyms don't set routes for autobelay sections, they just throw a bunch of holds up.

Lazy.

Thankfully, this gym does set their autobelay areas with routes, and praise be all the gods, there are no damn gym cracks wasting real estate! Those are such a terrible idea. They serve like 0.9% of the community.

Has anyone seen the giant hydrualic autobelays at Lifetime Athletic? They have about 30 lbs of pull haha

Tradiban wrote:Don't get me started on how dumb speed climbing is.

Your head is going to explode in about 2 years. You might want to talk to your doctor about that Valium prescription sooner rather than later.

Phil Lauffen wrote: Thankfully, this gym does set their autobelay areas with routes, and praise be all the gods, there are no damn gym cracks wasting real estate! Those are such a terrible idea. They serve like 0.9% of the community.

I like the gym cracks, keep my ankles limber over the long winter.