New and experienced climbers over 50 #4

Google says the driving time from North Conway to Chattanooga is 18 hours, a bit of a ride but if you are looking for something drive-able the southeast may have something to offer.

Oldtradguy wrote: I found some old photos of my wife and I doing Edwards Crack in Vedauwoo. There is a off-width crack at the start and an overhanging off-width at the top of the 2nd pitch.

Start

Jean out of the off-width crack start

Me at the off-width overhang

Started going up with my right side and realized I needed to lead with my left. All my gear was on the wrong side as I went through.

 

Jean coming through the top

Finishing

Yo John! Great to see pics of you and Jean.  Miss the early days at Stover, The Gunks, Seneca, and The New.  Please tell Miss Jean I said hello.  Bud

Bud

Nice to hear from you again. I have scanned over 5400 pictures of family and climbing. Hope to be done in this year.

I did find a couple of pictures of you leading an off-width on Potash Road back in 2000. I TR the route with Jean belaying me. All I remember is that it was extremely hard climbing. I believe it is Walk on the Wide Side. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105718267/walk-on-the-wide-side

Jean and I are working on fixing up a van and heading out west next month. Maybe we can make it to Moab and climb together again.

By the way, Jean can still cling onto 2 day old bird shit.

Bud leading the off-width

Me following with Jean belaying.

Lori Milas wrote:

I love these photos!!!  Thank you for posting them!  How great that you and your wife did these climbs together. 

I've heard the top of the chimney on The Flake oftentimes referred to as an off-width.  

But I have to take a minute here to tease Jeffrey Constine.  I didn't label my pictures on purpose.  How in HELL could you recognize these as the chimney on the Flake... after how many years?  You've done thousands of climbs, in probably hundreds of places... and yet you manage to identify every picture i post... even the obscure ones.    

There is a certain kind of memory some climbers have. Maybe some of these climbs are so classic that everyone knows them.(?)  But I think Constine has a magic memory... so far. he has not failed me once.

   If I climb a route once, I never forget it. Photographic memory deal, nor do I forget the moves. I still can repeat most of the 5.12s I did in the past to this day. 28 years of climbing in the 12 zone now.

Jeffrey Constine wrote:    If I climb a route once, I never forget it. Photographic memory deal, nor do I forget the moves. I still can repeat most of the 5.12s I did in the past to this day. 28 years of climbing in the 12 zone now.

Now I'm not nearly close to being in Medusa's league, but for me after 5 years of not doing a climb, it feels like another onsight. I think I know what's being thrown at me, but I'm way off after a period of time.

Haha, I remember the moves on a huge number of climbs, but the fact that I'm now two inches shorter has a way of rendering those memories worse than useless for revisits.

Dragons, I've gone the camper van route and the hotel route in Vegas and, honestly, the hotel worked much better.  (Air B&B was not yet an option for us).  Hotels can be very cheap, especially during the week if there isn't some big convention or sporting event going on.  You want to get something out close to RR like the Suncoast or Arizona Charlies.  (I know nothing about them currently.)  Our strategy was to get a minifridge which we stocked with breakfast foods.  Lunch of course was whatever portable climbing food we chose, and we went out for dinner.

The RR campground is a windswept wasteland.  Cold and windy mornings can make it really hard to get going.  Every single day we got to long climbs before anyone in the campground, because we were able to get going earlier.  You come back to the hotel, sort your gear and get everything ready for the next day in a warm room with plenty of space to spread out and light to see with, enjoy a nice long hot shower and a good nights rest without your vehicle or tent being buffeted by wind all night, and get up early enough to beat all the suffering campground folk to the climbs.  At least that's how it worked for us once we ditched the camper van approach.

Something I recommend to you as Easterners is to just stay on Eastern Standard Time.  You think you're getting up at 7 or 8 in the morning but its really 4 or 5 Vegas time.  Of course, you'll want to be going to be at 9 pm Vegas time so there is that...

Since you are used to our humid East Coast environments and aren't exactly young from what I can tell, I think it useful to warn you about trashing your hands.  Your body just isn't going to be adapted to the dryness.  The rock isn't sharp but is abrasive, and I've ended up with splits in all my fingers and fingernails pulled away from the pads after four or five days of climbing.  Oddly, it didn't interfere with my actual climbing, but various ordinary things like manipulating buttons and zippers could be excruciating.  I'd recommend over-hydration and the liberal use of some kind of moisturizing cream.  I eventually went so far as to put it on at night under cotton gloves, and wear my belay gloves while hiking in to climbs in order to hold as much moisture in as possible.  These are measures you have to take before the splits happen; they won't be going away once you get them!

If you decide to bag it all and head down to the Gunks, let me know, as I might be able to join you for a day or two---if the weather suits my considerable restrictions.

After a period of a couple of years I actually way prefer to climb routes as if I'd never climbed them.

dragons wrote: Hm, that new rate-limiting feature makes it feel like I'm conversing via carrier pigeon.

Dragons... we have all danced around the whole issue of life-choices we are making at this stage of life. (I call it the Third Act).  When I initially started the first thread, it was because I was a new climber and everyone I met was exactly 28.  But it has rightly grown to a discussion of climbing 'at a certain age'... and all that entails.

I thought about what you have written, because we are all trying to find how to proceed at this time.  Others here know that I've really struggled with whether or not to sell my house, business, move away or glamp it ... I have a strong wanderlust.  Now I feel like those answers are going to unfold more organically... the next step, and the next step, eventually I'll have my solutions.

But I will say this.  You may find that you need to spend some time paring down, scaling back, taking small steps.  It's raining 10 straight days here, dark, wet, gloomy... and I walked around my big house that used to hold 4 kids, too many animals, and occasionally my business.... and I just felt overwhelmed.  I realized that there is so much stuff here, and so many memories, that I couldn't hit the road if I wanted to.  So, I decided to tackle my 'stuff', start getting rid of what is no longer necessary, room by room, and the garage.  And then probably swing back around and do it again, until it's small and light.  And think through the money thing, precisely... and the job thing.  I had decided that I wanted to work another five years.  But if I can only sit in front of my computer and wish for rocks and ropes (and lakes and swimming)... then my plan won't work.  I guess this is trial by doing.  There's a lot of math and figuring and 'know thyself' to be doing right now, while you are looking forward.

So, it's also helpful to try not to burn all your bridges at once.  Dallas and Barb planned and saved and knew what they wanted... and I think they went all in. (?) No looking back.  Right now I'm trying to schedule ample time to go, be a free spirit, but come back to some stability.  I found while in J Tree that I really missed my climbing gym! (go figure).  And my lake.  And for sure my grandkids.  And I can't help it, but I miss my organic garden again... and I'll have to grow enough tomatoes to make pots of sauce in the summer.  But I FELT really good in the desert air, and climbing.  So... a month or two at a time in the desert in a cheap rental?  Don't know.  But I'm only suggesting that you may feel your way to where you need to be, by taking it slow, and easing in.  

And of course, there's relationship, and love... and you have another person to consider. Helen... most here, have another person to consider.  I would LIKE to have another person to consider again... don't know how likely that is if I'm living in a tent.   

I'm surprised more is not written about this passage.  But then, that's what we're here for...  

I'm going to apologize for this in advance.  I mentioned before that I watched a kid (Jeremy) work an astonishing (to me) route on Intersection Rock.  It looked so unlikely that I thought he made it up. Bob suggested that what I saw was "Trapeze", a 5.11d route he did the FA.  In fact... I DID watch a young woman climb Trapeze but the one that captivated me is not Trapeze.  Browsing through all the possible climbs on Intersection Rock (North Face)... I can't find this one.  So, I'm going to post some of the pictures I have, to see if anyone recognizes it as a route. (Up Left Ski Track, traverse right, down Right Ski Track)  NO urgency here... it's just stayed on my mind.  And also, I'm wondering if these are skills acquired more through bouldering.  I'd REALLY love to try part of this route.  (Senor, maybe this is right up your daughter's alley?)

    

Lori Milas wrote: I'm surprised more is not written about this passage.  But then, that's what we're here for...  

I believe I will throw my 2 cents in here: In my early sixties (2015) as the continuing corporate mergers expelled one fellow employee after another, I had a plan, rent out the house move onto the boat (which I had lived on for 8 years and knew what I would be getting into) and spend my time sailing, fishing and climbing. It was a good plan and still is but I what I never saw coming was the time it would take to adjust to not working and how much I would enjoy owning a table saw, growing chili peppers or baking bread. When you took away the anchor of the job the home body in me came bubbling to the surface muddying up what should have been an easily executed plan.  Ed

beensandbagged wrote:

I believe I will throw my 2 cents in here: In my early sixties (2015) as the continuing corporate mergers expelled one fellow employee after another, I had a plan, rent out the house move onto the boat (which I had lived on for 8 years and knew what I would be getting into) and spend my time sailing, fishing and climbing. It was a good plan and still is but I what I never saw coming was the time it would take to adjust to not working and how much I would enjoy owning a table saw, growing chili peppers or baking bread. When you took away the anchor of the job the home body in me came bubbling to the surface muddying up what should have been an easily executed plan.  Ed

Oh Ed.  Exactly!  I think we can only know by trial and error... taking small steps, and seeing how it feels.  I DO think we can have it all, it may just take a minute to figure out what we want!   Thank you for sharing this!  

Lori Milas wrote:  And of course, there's relationship, and love... and you have another person to consider. Helen... most here, have another person to consider.  I would LIKE to have another person to consider again... don't know how likely that is if I'm living in a tent.   
 

A thought...

Probably way more likely to find someone of equal mindset in a tent in Josh than at a church social, bar, or party in wherever.  

Lori, I looked in the Robert Miramontes book and it lists a toprope route called Ignorant Photons From Pluto that basically follows the line from Half Track over to Left Ski Track and up from there. It doesn't go as far as R. Ski Track, however. 

Lori Milas wrote: I'm going to apologize for this in advance.  I mentioned before that I watched a kid (Jeremy) work an astonishing (to me) route on Intersection Rock.  It looked so unlikely that I thought he made it up. Bob suggested that what I saw was "Trapeze", a 5.11d route he did the FA.  In fact... I DID watch a young woman climb Trapeze but the one that captivated me is not Trapeze.  Browsing through all the possible climbs on Intersection Rock (North Face)... I can't find this one.  So, I'm going to post some of the pictures I have, to see if anyone recognizes it as a route. (Up Left Ski Track, traverse right, down Right Ski Track)  NO urgency here... it's just stayed on my mind.  And also, I'm wondering if these are skills acquired more through bouldering.  I'd REALLY love to try part of this route.  (Senor, maybe this is right up your daughter's alley?)

    

Perhaps I should add, hopefully without throwing cold water on anyone's dreams, that the itinerant climbing lifestyle isn't necessarily for everyone.  I discovered this early on, when I was just out of college and a high-school math teacher.  I climbed every weekend during the school year and then had three months in the summer to climb all the time---which I did.  And at the end of that three months, I'd find myself, often in the Needles in Custer State Park, listening to the rustling of the aspens, which somehow evoked a powerful urge to return to the deciduous East, take up the joys and travails of my job, and reconnect with friends and family left behind.  Mind you, I couldn't wait to head West when the next summer rolled around.  This pattern continued through graduate school,  my subsequent collegiate academic career, and now into retirement.  I was never cut out to be a full-time climber---I have other interests and countervailing connections.  I say this without diminishing a passion for the activity that has lasted now going on 62 years and has seen large numbers of equally enthusiastic participants fall by the wayside.

Of course, some people really do thrive on the itinerant lifestyle.  I think the trick, if you are in a position to embrace it, is to figure out whether it is really for you.  Load up the car/van for a three-month trip and see how that goes.  Maybe do that two or three times before selling the house and putting what's left in storage.  There are lots of ways to be a climber, and some things that may seem to be obstacles may in fact be important connections whose loss or diminution would impoverish your life, not enhance it.

rgold wrote: Perhaps I should add, hopefully without throwing cold water on anyone's dreams, that the itinerant climbing lifestyle isn't necessarily for everyone.  I discovered this early on, when I was just out of college and a high-school math teacher.  I climbed every weekend during the school year and then had three months in the summer to climb all the time---which I did.  And at the end of that three months, I'd find myself, often in the Needles in Custer State Park, listening to the rustling of the aspens, which somehow evoked a powerful urge to return to the deciduous East, take up the joys and travails of my job, and reconnect with friends and family left behind.  Mind you, I couldn't wait to head West when the next summer rolled around.  This pattern continued through graduate school,  my subsequent collegiate academic career, and now into retirement.  I was never cut out to be a full-time climber---I have other interests and countervailing connections.  I say this without diminishing a passion for the activity that has lasted now going on 62 years and has seen large numbers of equally enthusiastic participants fall by the wayside.

Of course, some people really do thrive on the itinerant lifestyle.  I think the trick, if you are in a position to embrace it, is to figure out whether it is really for you.  Load up the car/van for a three-month trip and see how that goes.  Maybe do that two or three times before selling the house and putting what's left in storage.  There are lots of ways to be a climber, and some things that may seem to be obstacles may in fact be important connections whose loss or diminution would impoverish your life, not enhance it.

I'm with you, rgold. About 2 years out of college I got a big break and was hired to write adventure travel guidebooks full time. That meant being on the road constantly, staying in lodges, climbing mountains, camping, kayaking, surfing, etc. Any possible outdoor service I wanted was mine for basically free just by calling up and asking for it because the company I worked for was so well-respected and influential that everyone wanted to be included. That was fun for about two years and after that it just became tedious. I liken it to thinking that because one likes sex the best career choice is to become a porn actor. Sometimes it's good to keep your pleasures purely recreational. 

Russ Walling wrote: That intersection route is not really a “route” as in guide book route... mostly just a fun looking romp.  Where he starts (half track) going right he hits a little known route called “ignorant photons from uranus” if memory serves... it goes straight up between half track and left ski track on some cool big plates with a tricky bulge on some slopers

wholly syncopation batboy!

 I've just been searching for the good snaps, no dice

 all I could find are these butt-shot pictures taken from way to far away to make out much
 (if you go look at them in my "gallery", you can double click them to enlarge a bit). . .

Who I called Scott, exiting up right.

(EDIT) Doh!  between 1/2 & left, so I got that all wrong - it is 'like a century ago' for me, - Still glad I stopped by to see all this.
 although, I am now convinced Russ has no idea who I am; way back in the 'hey' days of the jesters- Watusi, et:al,  - I was a recurring floor boarder at Gordo's 1st place..

Russ Walling wrote: That intersection route is not really a “route” as in guide book route... mostly just a fun looking romp.  Where he starts (half track) going right he hits a little known route called “ignorant photons from uranus” if memory serves... it goes straight up between half track and left ski track on some cool big plates with a tricky bulge on some slopers.

Senor, Russ... THANK YOU!  I really appreciate you locating this for me.  It may be a 'fun romp' for any decent climber, but it's just what I needed to energize me for the coming year, channel my inner Alex, and muscle through those V0's at the gym.    OMG, I'm just admiring that style and grace.  Mine will have to be all imaginary.

Tim: "A thought...
Probably way more likely to find someone of equal mindset in a tent in Josh than at a church social, bar, or party in wherever."  Thank you for that.  I had a long marriage, and a few loves since then... and never saw myself as alone... but i am allowing this to unfold, but more uncertainly than I expected.  

Rgold...   

Look, I'm a bad example, perhaps even a bad influence, lol?

I've spent my entire life largely answering to/taking care of other people. Ive been cooking dinners since junior high. That was fine, it was the life that I chose, mostly. But now that climbing has happened? There's a 19 year old that got awakened, lurking in there, that wants to literally run wild.... 

Lori? Your business just went through a big deal....without you right there. To me, a big part of what you face, is what all business owners face: how to transition out of it, or, transition the business away from you. A great many simply fold up, close the doors, but I sense yours could go without you. That's a plan, perhaps? Getting down to not working much?

About that route, it could also be a linkup between several routes. And yes, it looks bouldery. And dangerous, if done that way. It would be a great one to try, but you will have to do so as a leader, or a follower with a really great leader, or???? I'm not sure you could be top roped across a traverse that long. Perhaps with double ropes? (See? She pays attention!)

Anyway, surprisingly, I got outside, on rock yesterday! The gym was packed, partner said whaddya wanna do, and I merely pointed east, toward our local stuff. Cold, but sunny. Got a couple routes in, packed it up, and the rain/snow moved in as I drove home. Only us, and two rope solo guys.

Friday, I'm climbing, one way or another. Bouldering, outside, or driving to a gym two hours from here. Wednesday, regular gym.

Have fun all! Best, H.

Jeffrey Constine wrote:    If I climb a route once, I never forget it. Photographic memory deal, nor do I forget the moves. I still can repeat most of the 5.12s I did in the past to this day. 28 years of climbing in the 12 zone now.

Both of those things - the memory part and the 28 years of 5.12 part - are impressive.  It's great that you both have the desire and the physical capability to do that.

I reached my "numbers" peak in my mid-40s (I think?), and after that just got tired of the time it was taking to stay at that level of fitness, and just wanted to spend more time doing other things.  And then of course, there was the knee surgery, two shoulder surgeries, and assorted tendon things that necessitated climbing easier things for 3-6 month periods of time. Don't get me wrong, I still climb all the time and love it, but if I ever do get back to climbing the numbers I used to do, it will be more surprising happenstance than deliberate training.  And that is fine with me. I have a blast climbing whatever the grade.