|
|
Mydans
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2014
· Points: 70
Jim Turner wrote: They require you to pass a Grigri TR belay test, and probably offer paid instruction. Free self-instruction also available with framed posters. Any time a company is bought by another company with “Capital” in their name, expect some changes good and bad. I get it. I'm sure in reality it is more about satisfying the insurance company than anything else. As other posters have said though this doesn't really prepare people well to climb outside. ATC style devices are much more versatile in terms of rappelling, multi pitch and a litany of other things you are likely to do climbing outside, but then again I'm probably out of touch thinking that a lot of these folks will do anything other than maybe sport climb or TR outside.
|
|
|
Stagg54 Taggart
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 10
curt86iroc wrote: you could ask the people who work at ET. probably would get a faster answer than posting to an online forum. I did. The lady working the desk had no clue and thought it was just as stupid as I did.
|
|
|
curt86iroc
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Lakewood, CO
· Joined Dec 2014
· Points: 274
Jim Turner wrote: They require you to pass a Grigri TR belay test they definitely do not require this. they require you to pass a belay test with an approved device. does not have to be a gri gri.
|
|
|
Stagg54 Taggart
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2006
· Points: 10
Tim Lutz wrote: yes. as they should. If that is the case, isn't one of their jobs to teach people how to belay. Isn't that what their belay class is for? Maybe they should work on their teaching skills, instead of just finding the lowest common denominator.
|
|
|
Jim T
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Colorado
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 469
curt86iroc wrote: they definitely do not require this. they require you to pass a belay test with an approved device. does not have to be a gri gri. Englewood requires TR belay test with the Gri. I assume they require the test in Golden as well, now that they started using Grigri a couple weeks ago. But maybe not.
|
|
|
Mike D
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 845
I was one of the first 50 members at Planet Granite when they opened in 1994.
Planet Granite has had fixed GriGris for years... I never had a problem with it, though I do like being able to use whatever device I like now.PG also used to actually have staff members walking around checking that belayers weren’t doing stupid shit. I wish all gyms did that.
|
|
|
Leliko Mana
·
Dec 17, 2018
·
On the road in US
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 45
Josh wrote: Speaking of auto-belays, my memory is that ET had a policy against installing those when they first opened ET Golden. Anyone know where Planet Granite stands on this? Now that the companies have merged, any changes coming regarding those? I'm currently Planet Granite member here in California and I've asked this question at one of three PG gyms here before but was told they were not considering installing autobelays. And frankly, all three gyms here get so crowded after working hours that I don't think auto-belay is even possible to consider. Truth to be told, Earth Treks (the one in Rockville which is my first climbing gym and where I still climb every 4-6 months when I'm visiting Maryland) also gets very crowded but at least they have dedicated spaces there (one for birthday parties and three for instructional classes) where they would be able to install auto-belays if they wanted to. Nothing like that exists in Planet Granite gyms in California due to limited space here...
|
|
|
Jack Sparrow
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
denver, co
· Joined Jun 2010
· Points: 1,560
As background i ve been an atc belayer for the first seven years of my climbing and have caught tons of falls and never had an issue, the device works great with proper use( like anything). I’ve worked in climbing gyms for the past few years including one that had the gri gri top rope policy in the Midwest and at first I thought it was a bad idea, but after witnessing so many brake hands coming off (multiple times a day) I know the policy has prevented accidents. Now I’m at a gym with lots of experienced climbers in Colorado (no gri gri policy) the gym allows guests to teach how to belay then take the test. I know just about anyone can pass the test by presenting a decent belaying technique. Even though it’s rule number one not to take your hand off the brake, you see it multiple times a day on the atc ( from people who pass the test) and it’s just a matter of time before someone falls and the belayer lets go. Just yesterday I witnessed this exact thing, brake hand blatantly off the rope on an atc, as soon as I noticed I went to alert the staff, when the climbers then packed up and left immediately. This happens all the time when a new belayer goes, to take up there climber, and I’ve seen it to many times the brake hand comes off. I think switching to a gri gri top rope belay system is a good day idea for any gym but especially ones that encourages you to teach your friend how to belay in fifteen minutes before the test. Also if your an atc belayer and upset about the policy ( like I was) I encourage you to take note of the belaying habits of the atc climbers around you during peak gym hours. And remember it’s an easy adjustment especially for top rope ( the only difference is the lower, but it ain’t rocket science.) My last gym just expanded the policy to lead climbing as well ( any assisted braking device is fine) I don’t know how I feel about that yet, but I’ll say this within the past week I witnessed a forty foot ground fall that would have been prevented by an assisted braking device. Food for thought, I just want to reiterate there is nothing wrong with an atc when used correctly, unfortunately we are humans and humans make mistakes ( especially ones that are taught how to belay in ten minutes). As climbing continues to grow ( like it or not) we need to recognize that something like gri gri’s on a top rope is an easy way to protect newer gym climbers from making a preventable stupid mistake.
|
|
|
Mike Lane
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
curt86iroc wrote: you could ask the people who work at ET. probably would get a faster answer than posting to an online forum. Pretty sure the point was virtue signaling his fealty to ATC's for all to see. Probably one of those old trad guys who keeps runners on his harness at the gym.
|
|
|
Mike Lane
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Tim Stich wrote: Well, I can see now how people who climb exclusively in the gym get outside for the first time and instantly die. When I see them in the parking lot, I tell them they need to just lay down right there and wait for a body retrieval crew to come pick them up. So tired of moving bodies away from my belay spots at the crag.
|
|
|
Leliko Mana
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
On the road in US
· Joined Nov 2018
· Points: 45
Brother Numsie wrote: When I see them in the parking lot, I tell them they need to just lay down right there and wait for a body retrieval crew to come pick them up. So tired of moving bodies away from my belay spots at the crag. So funny! Thanks for a good laugh this morning :););)
|
|
|
Jim Fox
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Westminster, CO
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 50
Brother Numsie wrote: Pretty sure the point was virtue signaling his fealty to ATC's for all to see. Probably one of those old trad guys who keeps runners on his harness at the gym. I did hip belays for years and they were just fine. Don't need no new fangled devices...
|
|
|
Tradiban
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Apr 2004
· Points: 11,610
Stagg54 Taggart wrote: What's with the change at ET in Golden with the gri gris fixed on the ropes? Do they just assume that their clients are too stupid to belay with an ATC (even though they have been all along up until now)? Or are they just too lazy to teach newbies how to belay?
Anyone in the know? I heard they are considering mandatory helmets for lead climbers too.
|
|
|
Jack M
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Denver
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 20
Tradiban wrote: I heard they are considering mandatory helmets for lead climbers too. Can confirm. Either BYOHelmet, or borrow theirs. Free for the first few weeks, $2 rental after that.
|
|
|
Tan B
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Chattanooga, TN
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 20
Jack Markovich wrote: Can confirm. Either BYOHelmet, or borrow theirs. Free for the first few weeks, $2 rental after that. Cannot confirm. I have a friend that’s an employee and has never heard of this.
|
|
|
Kenny Holton
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Golden, CO
· Joined Oct 2017
· Points: 5
JRZane I always lead on my own rope. I make things out of old rope and get retired ropes from ET, after cutting them up and seeing the insides of them
|
|
|
mediocre
·
Dec 18, 2018
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2013
· Points: 0
Brother Numsie wrote: When I see them in the parking lot, I tell them they need to just lay down right there and wait for a body retrieval crew to come pick them up. So tired of moving bodies away from my belay spots at the crag. You move boulders from landing spots and cut down trees too?
|
|
|
JaredG
·
Dec 19, 2018
·
Tucson, AZ
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 17
I wonder if the insurance co.'s have evidence that gri gris are safer than tube devices.
|
|
|
Chris Fedorczak
·
Dec 19, 2018
·
Portland, OR
· Joined Dec 2016
· Points: 0
Jonathan S wrote: I was surprised by this as well when I climbed there this weekend. Anyone know if they require using grigris for lead belaying as well? I might finally have to buy one :-( . I climb at PG, they do not require grigris for lead belaying. I see people using ATCs all the time.
|
|
|
Chris Fedorczak
·
Dec 19, 2018
·
Portland, OR
· Joined Dec 2016
· Points: 0
Tanner Bond wrote: Cannot confirm. I have a friend that’s an employee and has never heard of this. Never worn a helmet while leading at PG. Also never heard of this.
|