Scottish person looking for advice on best crampons for NE ice

Hi all,

I'm looking for advice on the best crampons to buy for waterfall ice. I'm from Scotland originally where I climbed mostly mixed and snow ice in some old BD Cyborgs. Since moving to the NE i've gotten on some more waterfall ice and have decided I have to replace my crampons - they're 8+ years old and no amount of sharpening will make them sharp again!

Since i'm willing to buy two pairs (one pair for more mountaineering-ey goals and one pair for ice), i'm looking for advice as to the best pure ice crampons. Some considerations: (1) I have smallish feet (B3s @size 41). (2) I don't particularly want another pair of cyborgs because ironically the anti-balling plates are balls. (3) I'm female and don't weight that much so would prefer something on the lighter side (foot weight to overall weight ratio being A THING). Considering Lynx/G14/G22 and anything else y'all might suggest!

Thanks!

-- Libby

The G20+ are my new favorite for anything technical. Such a good crampon.

Most of the lastest modular models (Lynx, G22+, Blade Runner, Cyborg) will do the job and weigh about the same. The Grivel may be a little lighter but we're talking a couple of ounces. Fixed points (Dartwin/Dart, G22 etc..) are lighter but you can't replace the points when they wear out or switch between mono/dual point. If weight really matters to you and you have a strong preference in terms of configuration fixed would be a good choice, just know you'll have to replace the whole unit when the points are gone.  

If you can, going into a store with your boots and seeing if one crampon works particularly well in terms of fit would be worthwhile. Otherwise I don't think any of the popular models are gonna suck. People seem to feel strongly more often about Grivels and Blade Runners than the alternatives but I've seen plenty of strong climbers in BD and Petzl too. 

I use the Rambo 4’s. I really like them, the rigid platform is nice on pure vertical ice. 

Andrewww wrote: I use the Rambo 4’s. I really like them, the rigid platform is nice on pure vertical ice. 

Rigidity probably matters less for a small/lightweight climber, plus the Rambos are heavy. 

I've been very happy with my Cassin Bladerunners paired with Scarpa Phantom Techs for climbs in the Adirondacks, New Hampshire and Baxter State Park, etc.  Bladerunners are notorious for either a good boot fit or a horrible boot fit, so you may want to try them on in shop before you buy.  I've owned Petzl Lynx & they're a great crampon, as well.

A good deal on new Bladerunners and used Grivel G20s can be found here.

Doubling down on the try them on your boots advice. I have even smaller feet, 39's, and a lot of crampons just don't fit my boots.

Libby, I have the Lynx and use them with a La Sportiva ( last gen single boot with built in gaiter... whatever that was called..) in a size 41 and they fit great and climb really well.
Lots of ability to adjust boot toe to front point position which I feel is a good thing with small feet.
Enjoy!
Z
Ps:Being a lightweight myself I also have some of the Petzl Leopard crampons for hiking etc. All aluminum so they wear but super light and functional, you can/could “ climb” a bit in them if desperate, they remind me of Salewa’s of the 70’s..... they also do a steel front , aluminum rear as well as a more durable , slightly heavier option.
The Leopards work well with my ice boots but also with my skinning boots...