Bouldering in the low 20s, no sun: snow boots (for bare feet), underarmour bottoms, goretex pants, R1 hoody, mammut puffy, mountain hardwear belay jacket, beanie, gloves, and miscellany like a pad and climbing shoes.
For the record, it was warmer when I ice climbed last year.
Señor Arroz wrote: If there's ever been a sport where you advance through failure, it's this one. All my advances as a climber have come from pushing through comfort, failing, and then learning from it.
Such is life. Supposedly I am in my Golden Years, the span of time between retirement and the beginning of age-imposed physical, emotional, and cognitive limitations. I have participated in many activities in the outdoors. Some I did pretty good, some not so good. I will never be on TV, or write a book. I will never be famous. Nor do I seek these things. Of the people that I know few have obtained my abilities in the outdoors, mostly they have never attempted such things. Many have excelled beyond anything that I could do.
But here's the thing. Fulfillment, contentment, happiness, aren't always about what we have accomplished, but more about what we have attempted. It's the journey that's important, after all, the ending is the same for all of us. I am just happy to be here, and very happy to be able to use a grigri.
Such is life. Supposedly I am in my Golden Years, the span of time between retirement and the beginning of age-imposed physical, emotional, and cognitive limitations. I have participated in many activities in the outdoors. Some I did pretty good, some not so good. I will never be on TV, or write a book. I will never be famous. Nor do I seek these things. Of the people that I know few have obtained my abilities in the outdoors, mostly they have never attempted such things. Many have excelled beyond anything that I could do.
But here's the thing. Fulfillment, contentment, happiness, aren't always about what we have accomplished, but more about what we have attempted. It's the journey that's important, after all, the ending is the same for all of us. I am just happy to be here, and very happy to be able to use a grigri.
I still live and climb for roofs and am never happier in climbing than when my feet are higher than my hands. Russ has similar proclivities, but I just can't relate to harsh, scraping falls out of coarse offwidths (he's an actual master, I am clearly not worthy).
I guess this is a whole new world for those of us who have never had feet higher than hands. I am so glad you guys are sharing all this... I've certainly never seen it before. You guys are the pros and from another whole world of climbing. I know it has taken time to scan and post older pictures, but thank you for doing so. This is a really fun education.
There's a regional bouldering competition at our gym today, and I'm looking forward to watching the kids strut their stuff. Meanwhile, I'm daydreaming about the next slab project at Joshua Tree... (feet BELOW head) ... and finally finally making an attempt on Sexy Grandma. I always have to do a disclaimer on my projects, because I can hear the "that's easy" comments. We'll see how easy it is when I finally get to it. Bob is not so certain, either, but finally put out the bait--and he did the FA. In fact, he seems downright chipper about it this time, and I can't figure out why. Maybe because the weather is right for it? Maybe to get me off his back about this? If I don't make it, I'll learn something, right? And I'm anxious to get back to SW Corner, to do it again without fear and trembling... to actually enjoy the ride, and then work on the other routes while I'm there (Cryptic and South Face Center). There are some other routes that I might want to project, which would be a new thing for me in outdoor climbing. A few that are at or just above my limit, and I'd like to be able to come back to them on successive days and see how far I can get. But I'm concerned that my slab skills will far outpace other skills (like the above roofs)... and cracks... but hoping to eventually be an all round climber. (except speed climbing. NO).
Dallas, I'm so proud of you! Your life seems to be one of generosity and humility... and you have reached out here to this community to offer your skills and knowledge--and certainly helped me organize my navigational challenges. It's a nice mental picture of you, on that mountain, skiing. Way to go!
Oh! BTW. Eddie Bauer having 50% off everything sale... and there is a rechargeable handwarmer for $25 with a low, medium, high setting. Will test it out today, in case anyone wants a feedback report.
Lori Milas wrote: Oh! BTW. Eddie Bauer having 50% off everything sale... and there is a rechargeable handwarmer for $25 with a low, medium, high setting. Will test it out today, in case anyone wants a feedback report.
That brings back memories of the first hand warmers I saw, a little metal case that you drop some slow burning material in, light it with a lighter or match (pretty much everyone smoked back then), close the case, and drop it into your glove.
below double-digit climbs in Jtree? oops let me translate 3rd classing is going cordless, soloing, we could change it "Honnolding" (if they had not given that name to facing outward away from the wall & holds, hands at sides or crossed across one's chest)
5.0 thru 5.9, single-digit climbs all day fun in the sun, Where the "Honey spots*" are. ( *misogynist pig comment, meaning where we tuff boys took the gurlz to have a good day of it)
5.10 climbs & above, double-digit, where all the kids play today You should try some but not get hurt or defeated forgetaboutit
There is one climb, I don't know why I remember it? so be careful, Ask "Big Gained" (maybe don't call him that) if he knows It & why I would recall it. I know it was a 5.7 named Windy or Wendy? (if you can find it you can post it to the database) I'm sorry, I won't admit to when I clambered that.
but hey, I do have some credit on a climb there, I haven't looked it up for years.
The last time I did check it I had been given 2nd billing. No worries that is a great 'sandwich' right there
it says it has a bolt on it.(?) The name I had chosen was a bit on the blue side, and Gordo said it would 'nevha fly' with R Vogel.
So we agreed that using a term from Ronnie Ray Gun era politics was cool. then I moved back east.
Pocket Veto 5.10a no way, I don't think it is . . . but it is . . . from back in the day . . . that has to be 'soft' for realz The bolt? might also be old, old as dirt, but installed after the FA (I didn't place it),
Suburban Roadside wrote: below double-digit climbs in Jtree? oops let me translate 3rd classing is going cordless, soloing, we could change it "Honnolding" (if they had not given that name to facing outward away from the wall & holds, hands at sides or crossed across one's chest)
5.0 thru 5.9, single-digit climbs all day fun in the sun, Where the "Honey spots*" are. ( *misogynist pig comment, meaning where we tuff boys took the gurlz to have a good day of it)
5.10 climbs & above, double-digit, where all the kids play today You should try some but not get hurt or defeated forgetaboutit
There is one climb, I don't know why I remember it? so be careful, Ask "Big Gained" (maybe don't call him that) if he knows It & why I would recall it. I know it was a 5.7 named Windy or Wendy? (if you can find it you can post it to the database) I'm sorry, I won't admit to when I clambered that.
but hey, I do have some credit on a climb there, I haven't looked it up for years.
The last time I did check it I had been given 2nd billing. No worries that is a great 'sandwich' right there
it says it has a bolt on it.(?) The name I had chosen was a bit on the blue side, and Gordo said it would 'nevha fly' with R Vogel.
So we agreed that using a term from Ronnie Ray Gun era politics was cool. then I moved back east.
Pocket Veto 5.10a no way, I don't think it is . . . but it is . . . from back in the day . . . that has to be 'soft' for realz The bolt? might also be old, old as dirt, but installed after the FA (I didn't place it),
zing, I gotta go
Okay is there an interpreter in the house? I need a complete English translation before I attempt something and kill myself.
But checked out Pocket Veto 5.10a... this one could be (that means "is") just over my limit. Like being an alcoholic in a bar when you know you're going to fail the breathilizer...stop while you're ahead. But now that I know you did the FA on this one, I will check it out. However, seeing this route mentioned, now I have other questions like 1) Why is there a poodle climb in Echo Cove? I thought they were only in Hemmingway, and I have made it my life mission to climb all the poodle routes. And 2) Whoever named a route Bonzo Dog Band, I want to meet them because that is still a favorite band of mine and so I would trust that route. You moved back east... so maybe you should move back west. This sounds like a plan. And what do you call a 5.9 Honey Spot if only gurlz are climbing it?
After watching Ondra do miracles on his climbs I have been seriously wondering if yelling helps. I might try it as well, if it won't startle the children in the area or my belayer... or scare off the sheep.
PS. I might do "honnolding" but not for the same reasons as Alex. This sounds like a posture when one is terrified and can't move up or down. If that is the case, I have done this move.
Michael is saying that in sandbaggy JT low grade climbs were soloed bitd, everything from 5.7 to 5.9 can be about the same, if your goal is harder routes, above 5.10 you should be careful and not hurt yourself, he fondly remembers climbing with your friend Bob and doing easy routes to impress girls, MPs rating on a route he put up is likely incorrect so be careful, the original name was questionable but changed.
Took me a couple of days to get around to replying, but I like these for coldish days- HOTER Sports Thick Solid Color Wristband with Zipper/Wrist Wallet Then when it's truly cold, you can put hand warmers in the zipper pocket. I prefer the hand warmer on the back of my wrist, where it's more out of the way, but the front works too.
Michael is saying that in sandbaggy JT low grade climbs were soloed bitd, everything from 5.7 to 5.9 can be about the same, if your goal is harder routes, above 5.10 you should be careful and not hurt yourself, he fondly remembers climbing with your friend Bob and doing easy routes to impress girls, MPs rating on a route he put up is likely incorrect so be careful, the original name was questionable but changed.
Zing....gotta go
Think that covers it.....
Tim Lutz wrote:
Next level: yell like Ondra while Honnolding
I choked on a mouthful of dinner last night when I read these comments... I was laughing so hard. John, thank you for the proper translation. Now I understand EVERYTHING. Tim, I believe you have developed a combo-move that I can claim on my own FA and maybe even get me on the cover of Climbing "Screaming Woman Freezes Two Feet Off Ground, Requires SAR". Russ, there is no such web address, but I'm guessing you knew that.
May I ask a serious question here? Was going to direct it to the women, but probably anyone can help me out. I'm stuck on a gym route, and very frustrated. It's a long, off-balance route with small wandering holds leading up to a roof where there are maybe another 10 moves to get up, over and to the top. There is no opportunity for rest along the way. It's muscular and strenuous. The up and over (not shown here) I couldn't do it all in one shot a month ago, I couldn't do it yesterday. I need a long rest before tackling that roof. (picture here is during and after the battle ) When thinking about whatever strength training I need... I'm just wondering if I've met my limit. From the ground it looks so easy...
Thinking about it this morning, all I can come up with is to work the bottom part of that route until it is efficient and I can reserve some energy for the top... and then work the top 10 moves so that it is so dialed in there is no hesitation and I can power through it. The good news is I won't meet a route like this outdoors that needs this much strength for a long time, if ever. Maybe this is a dude thing? Or a 'get to the gym and lift weights' thing?
Thinking about it this morning, all I can come up with is to work the bottom part of that route until it is efficient and I can reserve some energy for the top... and then work the top 10 moves so that it is so dialed in there is no hesitation and I can power through it. The good news is I won't meet a route like this outdoors that needs this much strength for a long time, if ever. Maybe this is a dude thing? Or a 'get to the gym and lift weights' thing?
You have the major part correct. Work the route until there are no unneeded foot or hand shuffles and you are as efficient as you can be. As you do that and work the route, you will also find some rests the are not yet apparent but that work for you by using your body efficiently (hips in, heel hooks, toe hooks, straight arms, etc - i.e., the usual tricks). As you work the route, you will get "stronger" for the engrams required for that route and your body will figure it out. As long as you can physically do all the moves with just a few falls, you should be able to redpoint the route eventually, assuming your gym leaves the route up for a bit of time. Our gym leaves routes up for about 4 months at most. There have been routes at my limit I did not redpoint before they came down. But the does not mean I would not have climbed them eventually. One more note: I have done many, many climbs I did not think were going to go at first. If you like the route and are 1 or 2 falls away, keep at it. It will come. If you can get someone to video for you, look at the video and you'll see where you can be more efficient.
John Barritt said - let me translate that for you.....
Michael is saying that in sandbaggy JT low grade climbs were soloed bitd, everything from 5.7 to 5.9 can be about the same, if your goal is harder routes, above 5.10 you should be careful and not hurt yourself, he fondly remembers climbing with your friend Bob and doing easy routes to impress girls, MPs rating on a route he put up is likely incorrect so be careful, the original name was questionable but changed.
Zing....gotta go
Think that covers it.....
Well yes ! there are decoder rings available . . . . (It would appear)
the story of the dog & poodle show!
That is Walling territory
C'mon Mussy !
Do what you do better than anyone do & tell them a story!
I don't mean to sound cheeky, but it looks to me like if you just stemmed on opposing green holds below that little crease you could easily lean in and get a rest. Probably even a no-hands rest.
Learning how to rest on difficult climbs is a top level climbing skill. Really great climbers are resting the entire way up. Learn that, it'll serve you much better than heading to the weight room.
I don't mean to sound cheeky, but it looks to me like if you just stemmed on opposing green holds below that little crease you could easily lean in and get a rest. Probably even a no-hands rest.
Learning how to rest on difficult climbs is a top level climbing skill. Really great climbers are resting the entire way up. Learn that, it'll serve you much better than heading to the weight room.
Thank you, Tim, and thank you Senor! Not cheeky at all! That's what I asked for! Of the two pictures, which one were you referring to stemming: the top one where I had already made it over the roof, or the one where I was working on it? The only way I could imagine resting on the roof is to hang from extended arms with feet on holds... which I can do for a short minute. The entire route is overhung.
Odd what a head game climbing is, at least for me. Without even realizing it I had decided it was game-over for me with this route... I had met my Waterloo, and probably can't advance past this grade EVER. And then my bad mood just goes downhill from there...
Tim, thanks for your advice, also, and I think I'll live to try another day. My coach Ryan is such a fan of projecting, and this is a climb that would work for that. I will see if we can take this climb apart in sections, and really focus on each individual section to see where I could make some changes. If it's not in sheer brut strength, then it has to be in economy and better resting (thanks Senor). I know it's hard to tell, but those up and over moves feel like they could go right, left, right, left etc... one, two, three, if I would just do it without any pause. It's really rough on my hands and fingers, so hanging there is not a good idea. But there are two foot holds that are slippery and I think they're a trick... when tired they seem like the best option to grab, but they fail. I would be really happy to tie down one more movement anywhere on that route... even if I don't send it. I think it will be there another four weeks.
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