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Where do you tie your stopper knot?

North Col · · Toronto, CA · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 0
Tradiban wrote:

False. Seen this happen with noobs in the gym. That's why gyms require a stopper knot. Easier to check of a distance as well.

Yes this makes so mich sence, someone ties fig 8 wrong second time at yhe gym, and this “backup” could stop the possible fall. 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276
Paul Hutton · · Nephi, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 740

This barrel knot does nothing to "back up" a figure eight.  If you're worried about too much excess rope on your tail--industrial rope access standard is at least a fist width of tail from your knot, but not so much that an exorbitant amount can be mistaken for a working line-- shorten it and trace the excess back through the figure 8, or use a Yosemite finish--which both makes untying the knot a little easier, and directs the rope away from moving parts.  An exorbitant amount of tail can accidentally be clipped into fall protection, which would fall out of any carabiner when the end of your excess tail reaches the 'biner while you're lead climbing past pro.  Furthermore, this barrel knot, when placed at a distance from your figure 8, can be a "stopper" for your lead climbing when you clip your lead rope into pro inbetween the figure 8 and your stopper knot.  

I use the double bowline to tie-in for single pitch climbing, never for multipitch climbing.  The bowline would have zero redundancy without a backup barrel knot.  The bowline is one of those knots that can come untied if load doesn't remain consistent on it.  I've been whipping on the double bowline, while facing criticism for it, for over 2 years.

JF M · · NoCo · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,823

"if you can't tie knots, tie lots" - anonymous / old adage

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276
JFM wrote: "if you can't tie knots, tie lots" - anonymous / old adage

"Frantically adds more half hitches"

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,039
North Col wrote: Out of curiosity, is there any alternatives for tying into the rope that are currently accepted or used besides the fig 8 and/or bowline with yosemite finish?

I only use a figure 8, just curious what else others may use

Eli . wrote: I met a Canuck that ties in with an overhand follow through or a water knot. Can’t remember which. Saw him whip and not die. Your mileage may vary.

Likely the water knot as opposed to overhand follow-through. This is called the "Brotherhood Knot" or "bro knot" for short. It's a bit easier to untie after repeated loading than a figure 8. Works fine. Occasionally makes appearances in AMGA/ACMG course work.

See: https://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/rewovenoverhand.jpg

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Beginning Climbers
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