Meltdown 5.14c curiosity

ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

"I don't climb 5.14 but let me tell you how i would climb this unrepeated 5.14c". Got it, makes sense. Thanks for the reply.

ViperScale . wrote:

As a guy with tiny hands a womens small hands would would make this route alot easier. I don't climb 5.14 but looking at alot of the video it looks like a jug haul alot of the way up for my hands. Alot of my friends probably would be lucky to get 1 full finger on some of the holds. Common for my friends to climb a problem using big reaches and pitches that my hand would not be able to do and I fall back to tiny foot holds to crimp and make my own path to the top.

Lets face it so few routes at this level get climbed you can't really grade them outside a personal how hard is it to me because you can't really average out a grade from 10 people or less.

Yeah my shoes are so small that the polished non-existent feet actually seem like ledges. It looks kind of heady because every time I (would) make a move I'm scared I'll break my ankle on those ledges if I were to take a whipper off the jugs.

Not to mention the fact that she's wasting all this effort pinching and laybacking off the crack flare and not even getting her whole hand jams in [i could for sure with my baby jug hands]. For my hands, the crux I think would be how I should sling my gear for the wide sections (ie. all of it until the top out). Gear over the shoulder? Left side in when stacking my fists or right? 

If this climb wasn't so season dependent when I'm working on my real projects I'd be stoked to get my first 14 (tho looks maybe 12 for me).

Big B wrote:

He said he’s only TR'd it once. mentioned that the crux is pure glass. But that he might give it a go soon

Rad. Has anything that LK has set himself to shut him down? Not that I'm aware of but I guess that wouldn't be in the news. I hope he goes for it.

The Enormocast with Carlos Traversi had him trying the elder Kauks Magic Line IIRC, not meltdown. Magic Line certainly in the mix for hard Crack as well. Lonnie the only repeat?

Story I got is that besides Kauk's efforts back in the late 90's when he bolted it, Traversi is the one who has put the most work into it, and that he got maybe close on TR, but never TR'd it clean, and never really moved into the phase of trying to lead or rp it.

Good to remember that Kauk first bolted and worked this line on TR back when he was a badass mf'r in the Valley, shortly after his send of the Magic Line, or maybe even the same season that he sent the ML? If he could do Magic Line, but got shut down by this one...

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web08s/newswire-rodden-yosemite-hard-trad

That's sick, congrats.

From Traversi's post:

All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in.

Whoa!  That one looks intense.  I wonder why it hasn’t gotten as much attention as Meltdown or Recovery Drink.  Also...Pringle climbs trad??