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The latest, greatest 2:1 hauling kit

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

I’m asking why that piece is in the system at all.  Regardless of what material it is made of.

Jon Rhoderick · · OR · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 966

Mikey I think the idea is that the steel draw keeps the microtrax in line with the rest of the system, if the draw isn’t there, the system isn’t in line and you’d loose some efficiency there 

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
Mikey Schaefer wrote: I’m asking why that piece is in the system at all.  Regardless of what material it is made of.

The micro trax needs to hang somewhere,  commonly it’s hung or attached to some doubled up cordlette, allowing some rotational movement while minimizing stretch and loss of efficiency.  The doubled cordlette is bulky,  my custom wire draw takes up minimum space has maximum strength and zero stretch.  

Mikey Schaefer · · Reno, NV · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 233

Have you messed around with the Pezl Jag Traxion? Seems like it could be interesting to see how it works with the ratchet system.  

Dave Vaughn · · Simi Valley CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 10

Is that a hole drilled in the black biner?

Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
Mikey Schaefer wrote: Have you messed around with the Pezl Jag Traxion? Seems like it could be interesting to see how it works with the ratchet system.  

Looks like this could be used to combine the micro Trax for progress capture with the upper pulley for the zed cord, cutting 2 pcs from the system.  Not sure what the impact would be in use though.


Edit - 3 pcs, not 2: the cable draw, 1 pulley, and 1 carabiner.

Robert Rowsam · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 230

I haven't set up a 2:1 yet, but this looks interesting. Is anyone willing to give a more detailed breakdown on how this system works? Or point me in the right direction to learn more?

Andrew Poet · · Central AZ · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 161
Robert Rowsam wrote: I haven't set up a 2:1 yet, but this looks interesting. Is anyone willing to give a more detailed breakdown on how this system works? Or point me in the right direction to learn more?

Plenty of discussions about this in the last few years, but here is a thread worth reading: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/107577488/21-haul-setup-rate-my-rigging

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
Dave Vaughn wrote: Is that a hole drilled in the black biner?

It’s a petzl biner that comes with the hole in it,  it’s commonly used with a triblock.  

Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
Larry S wrote:

Looks like this could be used to combine the micro Trax for progress capture with the upper pulley for the zed cord, cutting 2 pcs from the system.  Not sure what the impact would be in use though.


Edit - 3 pcs, not 2: the cable draw, 1 pulley, and 1 carabiner.

I have considered using this, but the top pulley being offset will cause the pulley to cant as you weight the zed cord,  could cause excessive rubbing on the side plate as well as wear on the zed cord from rubbing.   

PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40
Dave Vaughn wrote: Is that a hole drilled in the black biner?

It’s a petzl SM’d. They make non locking, screw locking, and auto locking variations. You can just barely get 3mm cord through the hole. 2.5mm is happiest.


Also, I wanna follow this thread.
Skot Richards · · Lakewood · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 100
PatMas wrote:

It’s a petzl SM’d. They make non locking, screw locking, and auto locking variations. You can just barely get 3mm cord through the hole. 2.5mm is happiest.


Also, I wanna follow this thread.

That the name I couldn’t think of. Thanks man   


Petzl SM’d. 

The components are Black Diamond Rock Locker biner 
CMC rescue Omni block 1.1 swivel biner 
Custom Wire Draw (I can make you one) 
Petzl SM’d non locking biner
Petzl Micro Trax 
Petzl Rescue Pulley
Small biner (any one would work) 
Petzl Basic rope grab 
Zed cord (any no strech, dynemma core ) 
Fish Beef Bag (to store it all in) 
PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40

Also not sure if anyone else has used this, but for attaching the Zed to your harness to haul I was a big fan of a Garda knot (I think a lot of people call it an alpine clutch?) it was more easily adjustable than the clove hitch, and just as secure, at least on Sterling 6mm power cord.

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,198
Skot Richards wrote:

The micro trax needs to hang somewhere,  commonly it’s hung or attached to some doubled up cordlette, allowing some rotational movement while minimizing stretch and loss of efficiency.  The doubled cordlette is bulky,  my custom wire draw takes up minimum space has maximum strength and zero stretch.  

A 4-6" loop of cord seems better than a steel quickdraw to me. 

Even accounting for possible tiny stretch, the point of this piece is merely to allow the microtrax to rotate a few degrees into alignment with the haul. 

It is counter productive to have this piece make the haul kit hang low, and counter productive to be adding weight.

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,198
Mark Hudon wrote:  Skot Richards and I just climbed Aurora on El Cap and we used his hauling kit shown in the photo.

It is totally da bomb!

The Z cord is some beef, totally no stretch spectra type stuff that Skot found and the whole  kit is not heavy it all.

If you need to put together a 2:1 kit, simply enlarge this photo to see specifically what the units are and go buy them. Don’t try to reinvent the wheel or be cheap. Skot and I have been working on the 2:1 kit for years and you will simply not make any significant improvements to it at this point. 

"you will simply not make any significant improvements to it at this point. " - sounds like a challenge.

  • Why not use something like a KONG Duck or CAMP Lift in place of the upside down ascender, and save weight/cost? (Tibloc even more, but might chew up the rope)

  • Why is that second orange (CMC) pulley not just another lightweight/cheaper yellow pulley with a small loop of cord for allowing twisting into alignment?

  • Why not just use a small loop of cord on the Microtrax? Save the weight of the black carabiner and the steel draw.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
blakeherrington wrote:

A 4-6" loop of cord seems better than a steel quickdraw to me. 

Even accounting for possible tiny stretch, the point of this piece is merely to allow the microtrax to rotate a few degrees into alignment with the haul. 

It is counter productive to have this piece make the haul kit hang low, and counter productive to be adding weight.

You want the Micro to hang a bit below the upper pulley, even if you used a sling, you’d still want it to hang right about where the photo shows it. Once the bag is released and is hanging on the rope, the pull us straight down, the Micro doesn’t rotate or need to, you’d gain nothing as far as that goes. 

Using a sling to replace the wire and the biner is a cool idea. Better yet, use a loop of the non stretch cord Skot has. It would save a couple ounces and still be strong. 
Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Good ideas, Blake.

A Tribloc WILL chew up the rope, I’ve already tried that.
Yes, you could use a cord and a small pulley as your top pulley and save some weight. Don’t go cheap though, this is where a lot of your efficiency lies.
The Basic, it’s size, provides a good handle to push down on the Zed Cord on every stroke. You’re doing this a lot and at some point, ease and convenience trumps weight and size. The new Basic is pretty small also. 
I like the idea of putting the Micro on a cord!

At this point, we are making the system lighter, not more efficient (as I was (poorly) inferring).

I’m headed down to Skot’s place today and I’m sure we’ll play around with these ideas and get them on a scale.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
PatMas wrote: Also not sure if anyone else has used this, but for attaching the Zed to your harness to haul I was a big fan of a Garda knot (I think a lot of people call it an alpine clutch?) it was more easily adjustable than the clove hitch, and just as secure, at least on Sterling 6mm power cord.

We use a clove hitch around a biner and a descending ring so we can loosen the clove easily and quickly to adjust it. 

PatMas · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 40

The micro on the Cord makes it harder to separate your 2:1 from the Haul Line, or to install haul line in it. Also the interior of the Micro doesn't have a "partition" between the rope and the Attachment carabiner. I think you could run into issues where you have your haul line rubbing against your 'attachment cord' and you wouldn't be able to easily visually inspect.  At least that's my armchair opinion as I haven't tried that variation.

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
PatMas wrote: The micro on the Cord makes it harder to separate your 2:1 from the Haul Line, or to install haul line in it. Also the interior of the Micro doesn't have a "partition" between the rope and the Attachment carabiner. I think you could run into issues where you have your haul line rubbing against your 'attachment cord' and you wouldn't be able to easily visually inspect.  At least that's my armchair opinion as I haven't tried that variation.

You would have a loop of cord through the eye and back to the main biner. It wouldn’t be a loop tied directly into the Micro. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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