Dropped Gear Protocol

I think that the test referenced above Ska's post is a good start but not entirely the situation you would find while climbing...depends, right?

But to think a carabiner needs to be replaced because it was dropped from the waist at 3' (or less) seems like an easy myth to bust. I do like that they dropped them from up to 100'. However a straight drop to a flat surface just isn't enough for me to dismiss an "old wive's tale". I'll continue to communicate to a new partner that wants to use my gear of my rules. If they don't like it, they can rack up with their gear.

For the same reason this thread exists, I do not buy used gear for me to climb with. I do sell my used gear that I feel confident using and it seems to make people happy to be able to buy it, but for me no chance. 

Jon Frisby wrote:

this is rockclimbing not a china shop

Funny response. 

I have no problem with buying used plates, bowls, etc as my life does not depend on them. However, as you state it's rock climbing...which tends to be more dangerous and has higher consequences than eating a bowl of cereal?

Roots wrote:

Funny response. 

I have no problem with buying used plates, bowls, etc as my life does not depend on them. However, as you state it's rock climbing...which tends to be more dangerous and has higher consequences than eating a bowl of cereal?

talking about your overly dainty liability policy not your irrational fears

If it wasn't destroyed clip it back on your rack and pimp smack this "follower" and show them how to rack gear when following. 

My general set of rules:
You drop and lose it, you replace it or at least offer (new or used, its situational). Dropped but found is dependent on condition.
For stuck pieces both split it or one person usually admits they over-cammed it/messed up cleaning it.
All booty is split equally and takes into account lost gear.

Wes Turner wrote:

Sure. I wouldn't make a big deal about it.... But no one would have to ask me to do it. It'd be the first thing outta my mouth is my real point. " hey man, my bad on that. I'll spring for a new one" or I'd say... "my bad, I'll send you one of mine asap."... 

I would do the same, always offer to pay or buy a new piece of gear.   I just don't expect it from others, I guess it's just lowering expectations so I don't get tweaked when they don't offer.   And as i said, most of the guys I climb with are younger and still hurting for cash so I just decided to let it go.

Mark Andes wrote:

You're telling me that I bought a scanning electron microscope for NOTHING?

Of course it's not for nothing! Scan those gym shoes after they've walked through the bathroom!

:-)

Wait, junkies in Boulder have cams?

Russ Keane wrote: Wait, junkies in Boulder have cams?

Who did you think was breaking into all those cars?

Russ Keane wrote: Wait, junkies in Boulder have cams?

That's where I buy all my gear.  Mike out on 11th and Pearl has the good shit.

Roy Suggett wrote: Off the topic a bit...or not, but I thought that if a piece of gear (cam, biner, belay device) was dropped from some distance, said piece might have developed micro cracks that could lead to failure.  If in fact this is true, total replacement with a new piece would seem prudent.

Both BD AND Petzl have shown (ie tested) that this is false.

Ska Ggs wrote:

Studies have debunked this ... like an old wives tale about warts coming from frogs ... no truth but everyone hears it. 

Obviously look at your gear, but no ‘under the surface lurks danger’ issues

I used to believe this. I once dropped my partner’s #3 100’ and watched as it bounced off the cliff multiple times on the way down. I was insistent on buying her a new one until a friend offered to scan it for us. Not a micro fracture to be found! She happily re-racked it. 

Roots wrote:

Tim - they were ex-guides from a period in time where people had integrity and understood accountability.

You drop it - you bought it.

Your ex-guide mentors were and still are goofs and poltroons! Bring them into this, your century, and allow them to let go of ridiculous superstitions. I suppose they still hip belay with coils of hemp, too? Dunderheads!

So here’s the cam in question

It will be replace with a similar cam, same size, lightly used


Do the strangers on MP approve?

Can I have the old one...? you know... for testing and proper disposal

Upon reading this tread and some reflection, I think it’s time for us to start seeing other people Hugh. Your obsession with your goods made me realize that it was never about us, I was just another tool that you used to feed your addiction. I’ve spent so many hours giving you attentive belays, encouraging you when occasion arose, sacrificing my family time so you can yet again fail on one of your projects. After the judgement in this thread I’m not sure I’ll be able to handle your nuts like before. I made but one mistake, fumbled with your cam and let it slide down the coarse granite and instead of words of comfort you immediately judged me. I was hurt, still am. How can we stay together if I’m not able to handle your goods anymore? Since you always looked up to the older gents (Scarpelli, Donini, Stone Masters), maybe it’s time for you to explore this alley. I’ll always cherish the moments we had, knowing even though our journey had to end it was a magical experience. Here’s few memories dear to my heart:

You’ll receive your replacement cam in mail (what’s your address again)

Wait a minute, you have the cam that's being discussed? This whole thread I was thinking "dropped" as in, dropped out of sight, whereabouts unknown, lost and gone forever. Why do you need to replace something that you still have?

Em Cos wrote: Wait a minute, you have the cam that's being discussed? This whole thread I was thinking "dropped" as in, dropped out of sight, whereabouts unknown, lost and gone forever. Why do you need to replace something that you still have?

Because it was dropped. You know, micro fractures and unsightly scratches, making the cam practically useless (that’s what I’m told at least)

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

Because it was dropped. You know, micro fractures and unsightly scratches, making the cam practically useless (that’s what I’m told at least)

Only as useless as your partner (anyone partner).

Climbing with a rope and gear is lame. Send themTo me and take up freesoloing. When you fallmake sure to blame Phish and Ales Honnold and never let anyone blame you.
P.s. will also accept partner that doesn’t drop gear (to often) and showers on a regular basis. 

Fehim Hasecic wrote:

Because it was dropped. You know, micro fractures and unsightly scratches, making the cam practically useless (that’s what I’m told at least)

Unsightly is in the eye of the beholder... but as was mentioned earlier in this thread, cams can have fragile egos and it may be traumatized. Since the damage is aesthetic, perhaps you can offer to spring for some nice nail polish in a few bright colors, and pretty up that cam a bit, or even the whole rack?