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CLIMBING IS RUINED! Thanks gym people
md3 wrote: Crowds are ruining climbing. Gyms played a role in generating the growth, but the gyms are not going away. If you want to help preserve the experience of climbing without gym like crowds at outdoor areas, stop crticizing gym climbing. We should all be doing everything we can to reinforce the idea that gym climbing is fun, challenging, good for fitness, much more convenient than going outside, really hip and an awesome activity all around. Gym climbing is for more motivated, successful people who have more to do with their day than spend hours driving and hiking in addition to getting in a few routes in. Gym climbing is a purer, distilled athletic experience that does not involve the vagaries of deteriorating rock or the compromises that must be made due to weather or safety issues when outside. Also -- we should all fight the gymnification of outdoor crags by objecting to and removing fixed draws and bolts where there is any chance of natural protection. I agree mostly. Reinforcing gym climbing being fun though, isn't somehow going to magically ensure that people stay in the gym. I think there's a direct correlation between crowds being bigger outside and there being more gyms and more climbers of any variety overall. Reinforcing climbing being awesome at all, which it is, will only amplify the issue. Criticizing gym climbing, like you said, isn't going to help. But, being constructively critical of those that are fresh out of the gym and guiding them and educating them to the fact that gym climbing and outdoor climbing are two separate entities is a good idea. Also, good luck with removing permadraws. That sounds like it'll be as successful as prying a salmon away from a grizzly. |
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Crowded crag solution: remove bolts and anchors on any route under 12c |
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Climbing is no longer a counter culture pursuit. It's main stream. I know people who voted for Trump that climb. In the early 70s I cannot imagine a climber who voted for Nixon. Gym climbing (although I have only been a couple of times) is to today what racquetball was in the 80s. |
Perry Norris wrote:In the early 70s I cannot imagine a climber who voted for Nixon. I can assure you that happened, as climbers then were all over the political map, just as they are today. Recall that Thom Scheuer, one-time Gunks head ranger and vulgarian, was a speech writer in his former life...for Nixon. |
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Aleks Zebastian's Neck Meat for President 2020 |
Marc801 C wrote: I can assure you that happened, as climbers then were all over the political map, just as they are today. Recall that Thom Scheuer, one-time Gunks head ranger and vulgarian, was a speech writer in his former life...for Nixon. So was Waterman, no? |
Perry Norris wrote: Climbing is no longer a counter culture pursuit. It's main stream. I know people who voted for Trump that climb. In the early 70s I cannot imagine a climber who voted for Nixon. Gym climbing (although I have only been a couple of times) is to today what racquetball was in the 80s. Sigh..... Are we really bringing politics into this discussion? For fucks sake...... Playing the devil's advocate* one could now argue that trump is the counter culture. He is doing thing different than his predecessors and not playing by the rules whether you like it or not. |
md3 wrote: Crowds are ruining climbing. Gyms played a role in generating the growth, but the gyms are not going away. If you want to help preserve the experience of climbing without gym like crowds at outdoor areas, stop crticizing gym climbing. We should all be doing everything we can to reinforce the idea that gym climbing is fun, challenging, good for fitness, much more convenient than going outside, really hip and an awesome activity all around. Gym climbing is for more motivated, successful people who have more to do with their day than spend hours driving and hiking in addition to getting in a few routes in. Gym climbing is a purer, distilled athletic experience that does not involve the vagaries of deteriorating rock or the compromises that must be made due to weather or safety issues when outside. Also -- we should all fight the gymnification of outdoor crags by objecting to and removing fixed draws and bolts where there is any chance of natural protection. The growth of Ninja Warrior should help divert gymbies away from outdoor climbing. Contenders will soon realize that outdoor climbing doesn't help your Ninja performance -- no need for crimping or head game. |
master gumby wrote:Trump is very much the establishment. He’s just another entitled white male who can get away with stupid shit because he’s a white male born into privilege. |
Perry Norris wrote: Climbing is no longer a counter culture pursuit. It's main stream. I know people who voted for Trump that climb. In the early 70s I cannot imagine a climber who voted for Nixon. Gym climbing (although I have only been a couple of times) is to today what racquetball was in the 80s. You can be cool and play racquetball |
master gumby wrote: Thus your comments on such are irrelevant. Nor can you complain about US policies, direction of the country, supreme court nominations, et al. |
master gumby wrote: "I am not registered to vote and hate politics." |
Brian ~+~+~+ wrote: Others who may not have started in the gym but have spent significant time climbing on plastic: Lynn Hill |
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Marketing ruined climbing. |
Marc801 C wrote:I’d guess that most of the young climbers these days started off on plastic or at least spend a lot of time on it. I know Margo Hayes is off crushing limestone in Europe right now. She got into indoor climbing after an injury sidelined her from gymnastics. I’ve seen at least ten people at the gym who have climbed 5.14 or harder outside. |
Roots wrote: Marketing ruined climbing.The need to be cool ruined climbing. |
Dog That Can Smell Bad Posts wrote:  |
Mike Deitchman wrote: The need to be cool ruined climbing. ...and parachute pants. damn those things were comfy... |
curt86iroc wrote:Or maybe if we’d stuck to colorful Lycra pants? |
Mike Deitchman wrote: I’d guess that most of the young climbers these days started off on plastic or at least spend a lot of time on it. I know Margo Hayes is off crushing limestone in Europe right now. She got into indoor climbing after an injury sidelined her from gymnastics. I started on the crib and hall walls of our house growing up. |
