New and experienced climbers over 50, #3

Russ Walling wrote: I went and saw the "Free Solo" last night.... first time in years I've gone to a movie theatre!

I thought it was really good, and a lot of his commentary and points resonated with us (we were 4 climbers, with a couple that had a pretty heavy freesolo background) and of course the footage of the climbing was spectacular.  I did not like the looks of that "boulder problem" section of the climb!  Whoo-eeee.... that is a pant shitter move right there.  Really good effort from all involved.  Go see it!

They tilted the camera to make it look steeper ;)   Agree, that boulder problem was nutz.  

Have a nice day 

Climbed today, all day.   

Notes from a beginner: I finally feel like I got this. Not that I feel like a good climber, but at least not like a poser. Learned to rappel today, learned a little better foot and hand jam technique, got my first taste of placing cams and nuts.  No problem with any route-if anything they could have been harder. But mostly I feel able to read a rock and know what to do now.

Remembered to get the Epsom salts before I climbed. I need that soak tonight before tomorrow morning...starting again bright and early. 

Sunset in Amber OK last night. Today was an interesting day to say the least. Thought I'd throw this one out there with the other scenic shots.

Lori Milas wrote: Notes from a beginner: I finally feel like I got this. Not that I feel like a good climber, but at least not like a poser. Learned to rappel today, learned a little better foot and hand jam technique, got my first taste of placing cams and nuts.  No problem with any route-if anything they could have been harder. But mostly I feel able to read a rock and know what to do now.

Remembered to get the Epsom salts before I climbed. I need that soak tonight before tomorrow morning...starting again bright and early. 

You're not a beginner any more. 

Señor Arroz wrote:

You're not a beginner any more. 

Yes, I believe you’re right, John. 

However for some reason I believed I could climb hard in the sun all day yesterday and wake up raring to go this morning.  Something went terribly wrong in the night.   So this could be a character building day. (This is how I explained childbirth to my daughters—don’t think of labor as “pain”, think of it as an opportunity to build character.   )

Kicking A$$ Lori Keep it up!

We got a good character building session.  Point of Rocks, Ft. Davis TX.  This area has not seen much climbing.  The trails are all overgrown, there is a lot of loose crumbly stuff on the routes.  We don't always appreciate well maintained climbing areas until we get to one that has not been developed to it's full potential.  

Old school slab climbing, the rock is crystal granite, good friction when it doesn't break off. There is one bolt in the middle of the 90' pitch.  Super thin flakes, thin and easily broken.  Barb was going over the crux, 20 feet above the bolt, no gear placements, the nubby she stepped up on broke off and she took a 40' slide down the 5.6-7 granite slab.  She got rolled over and was sliding down on her butt.  The granite ground through her pants, then it ground through her underwear and was starting in on her hide when she finally got stopped.  She also sprained her ankle.  I am forbidden from posting pictures of the damage.

Dallas R wrote: We got a good character building session.  Point of Rocks, Ft. Davis TX.  This area has not seen much climbing.  The trails are all overgrown, there is a lot of loose crumbly stuff on the routes.  We don't always appreciate well maintained climbing areas until we get to one that has not been developed to it's full potential.  

Old school slab climbing, the rock is crystal granite, good friction when it doesn't break off. There is one bolt in the middle of the 90' pitch.  Super thin flakes, thin and easily broken.  Barb was going over the crux, 20 feet above the bolt, no gear placements, the nubby she stepped up on broke off and she took a 40' slide down the 5.6-7 granite slab.  She got rolled over and was sliding down on her butt.  The granite ground through her pants, then it ground through her underwear and was starting in on her hide when she finally got stopped.  She also sprained her ankle.  I am forbidden from posting pictures of the damage.

Yikes! Glad it wasn't worse, Barb.

I'd sooner climb 90' of 5.10 or 11 slab with a bolt every 10' than 90' of easier slab with one bolt in 90'.

Yikes.  Glad Barb is ok.

Oh  my! So glad Barb is ok!

Wow! Glad Barb is okay! Last year at City of Rocks, I watched this young guy we met slide rather a long ways down this slabby start. First bolt was a fair piece away from where he is in this pic, hence the lackadaisical belay. The fourth in our party (behind the belayer) neatly caught him in his arms! He slid down standing up, keeping his balance, basically skiing down it on climbing shoes, backwards!

And Lori? Yay! Your trip sounds like it's going....the way a memorable trip does.

Best, Helen

went to check out another new spot today! so nice out! got up 2 new routes.

 glad Barb is gonna survive!

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Kicking A$$ Lori Keep it up!

Jeffrey is that you being encouraging and kind? I’m not sure I know how to handle this!   Maybe a stunt double? 

So I climbed all day. A little bit tired. When I first realized that we were headed to this rock my first response was ABSOLUTELY NOT. But I had no reasonable excuse so I pulled out my stash ouf chocolate and began eating it for courage. I ate it up to and through the climb (which was terrifying) and I’ll probably continue eating chocolate all night.  That’s not me rappelling-I got lowered and swung twice, once going up.)

Cryptic 5.8 a classic rt side 5.6 Lft side. You can do it~

And...once back on Mother Earth I got some basic lessons. Although it’s still new (and I was shaken from that climb), it’s starting to come together. I understood it on the spot, but decided to take pictures so I can study it more later. May (will) do more of this this week. Basic two-bolt setup with extension and rappel setup with backup sling and knots. And one more shot of the route we climbed.   

Lori Milas wrote: No problem with any route-if anything they could have been harder.  

Be careful what you wish for.   

Jeffrey Constine wrote: Cryptic 5.8 a classic rt side 5.6 Lft side. You can do it~

I did it. Do you have these routes memorized? It just looked...stark and crazy. The climbing itself was ok if I could get past the feeling of exposure. 

I thought of you Jeff. I asked if as long as I was hanging there could I invert and take a selfie?