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What does it take to become a local at your crag?

Original Post
master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262

My crag you need to have chopped through countless manzanita trees to find a 20 foot splitter, encountered a surprise poop on a scenic climbing trail, take in the oooos and ahhhs of the paparazzi as you climb a secret offwidth near the road, and confront at least one hiker.

Just curious how becoming a local varies in different crags?

Choss Connoisseur · · SLC · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 15

Steal dog

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

At my crag, yes its mine, you have to climb with the cool kids, but they won't climb with you unless you lead 5.11. I do, they still won't climb with me, go figure. That's why I prefer to climb with gumbies.

That's a phenomenon I noticed, in some cases the folks I met were a little elitest, not all but some. That changed when I got stronger, when I climbed 5.8 the locals didn't speak to me, when I lead 5.11 they would come over to invite me to climb, but by then I was climbing with a lot of gumbies who like myself weren't gumbies anymore so we didn't need to climb with the "locals".

Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110

Tie in and talk about your therapy session and hog a classic line with the squad.
Also don't forget to bring hammock and bluetooth speaker.

David Gibbs · · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2

Scrub lichen and moss from at least a 20m x 4m section of cliff, and trundle some boulders while doing so.

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,842

Bolting a route, without pissing any of the locals -- that is what truly makes you a local. 

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

I’m local everywhere. It’s a state of entitlement, bradge.

Alex Zucca · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 355

Become the route police and shout at people "that hold is OFF" as you pass top rope tough guys on the way to your super secret wall with "tons of potential" and "amazing rock quality", guarded by several hundred feet of elevation gain on a loose, steep slope covered in dense brush.

Trad Princess · · Not That Into Climbing · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 1,175

This thread has potential, nawmean?!?!

Cheers
DMT

Brandon.Phillips · · Portola, CA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 55

chopping bolts

Scurvy Dave · · Squamish · Joined May 2018 · Points: 0

Ruin a proposal topping out every couple of weeks.  Bring 10 of your gym buddies to set up a top rope on 3 climbs and claim them for the whole day.  Get your photo taken by 7 people going for a walk every time you top out if there is no proposal

BrokenChairs 88 · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 240

Living in the area, cleaning (routes and landings; we have a lot of muck to clean in the PNW.), replacement or donation to replacement of fixed hardware, attitude, ownership... anyone can be an owner (local) or steward of an area.  Just be willing to take ownership and give back to the area.  

Lastly take the sharp end at your local crag. 
master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
abandon moderation wrote:

I call fraud, there are no secret offwidths near the road. And no on ooos at offwidths, even the casual observer is more likely to vomit.

I bet this guy isn't even a local.

Have you been to woodson braj?! Apparently not. Also your technique is lacking if a casual observer vomits while you climb an offwidth. It should look like you are floating. 


Whose the local now?

Billcoe · · Pacific Northwet · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 936

I'm following with great interest. I'm a local no place, despite having climbed at one location 45 years (Beacon) and was out doing multiple laps there just Wednesday. I mean, I know a couple folks out that way and all, but "local?". Nah.

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
Nathan Doyle wrote: We have something else in store for the boys who want to become men.

The anticipation is killing me what exactly do you have in store for the boys becoming men?

Martin Harris · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 200

Don’t be a douce and take repeated 35-50 foot whips while trying to send other people’s warm ups.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

All you need to do is send the correct person a check with some money... Let me know where you want to become a local and I can send you the address to send the check.

TBlom · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2004 · Points: 360

I installed a tyrolean once, and I was like "Dayummm, today is the day!"

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

My first trip to Josh I heard someone say you need to have climbed 250 JT routes before you're a local. That intrigued me, so when I got home I made a list of all the local routes I'd done. Pfft... I had something like 150.  (I'm well over 800 now)

master gumby · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 262
Gunkiemike wrote: My first trip to Josh I heard someone say you need to have climbed 250 JT routes before you're a local. That intrigued me, so when I got home I made a list of all the local routes I'd done. Pfft... I had something like 150.  (I'm well over 800 now)

So to be a local at Josh you have to climb over 100 routes not worth doing? Sick. I heard there are only 100 worth doing out there 

Nicholas Gillman · · Las Vegas · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 327

We have a hard cap here in Red Rock. You have to kill an existing local and take their spot. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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