Some easy / moderate sport climbing in Yosemite?

Hope this finds you well and you guys are having an amazing season (if you are Yosemite based)

You might be able to help me.

Basically looking for one or two steers for routes in Yosemite. We're still fairly new to this and we're not placing gear so we're looking for :

- single pitch only
- sport climbing only
- up to 5.10

I've done a little research and see that there might be some suitable routes at:

- Five and Dime Cliff
- Schulz Ridge (Hooter Alert....might be too tricky but we'll have a look!)
- Pat and Jack Pinnacle area
- If there is anything suitable bolted on El Cap please do let us know

If you guys had anything to add or recommend I'd hugely appreciate it...just the name of a wall / location even and then I'm sure I can research what suitable route there may be on it.

We'll be flying in next week (the trip was in jeopardy until this morning hence some last minute planning...). Coming from Ireland, can't wait to see the place again. Last time I was only hiking so doubly excited this time.

Thanks very much in advance for any help.
Gar

If only there was a community based website with a search feature where you could search for routes by area, grade and type. 

OK....Where do you think I found out about the areas / routes that I mentioned?

I've been through Supertopo with a fine tooth comb and it was great, hence the places I mentioned, but I came on here wondering if anyone might have some personal recommendations. That can be invaluable. I saw one other thread up on here but it was someone looking for slightly more serious climbing than us.

Cheers for welcome though!

There is very little of what you're looking for in the Valley.

There's an old Supertopo "Yosemite Topropes" book that has some stuff.

Beware that parts of Shultz's ridge are in the blast zone from last year's big El Cap rockfall. There's still some hangfire waiting to go in the rock scar. I wouldn't want to spend a day there, but maybe you have a higher risk tolerance.

At 5&Dime there are two sport routes in your grades-  a 5.8 and a 10c; they're both fun. Expect a line.

You may want enjoy the Valley for its wondrous beauty and then maybe go check out Shuteye and Fresno Dome an hour or 2 to the south; there's much much much more moderate bolted climbing. The guidebook for shuteye should be available locally. Fresno dome beta is available on MP with some squinting. 

There is a Super Topo guide to sport routes in the Valley. I'd pick that up.

Don't go to Yosemite Valley for sport climbing.

Swan Slab and Church Bowl are the main cragging areas. On weekends you can go check out the scene and maybe work in with another teams. Somebody usually has a TR on Moby Dick at El Cap base and Jam Crack at Sunnyside Bench. Slip on Slime on Middle Cathedral is fun, and the approach trail has great El Cap views. Can also TR the 5.9 to the right. Mockery at Five and Dime is great.

Enjoy the Valley!

Unk is talking about MP rather than Supertopo.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105833388&type=rock&diffMinrock=1600&diffMinboulder=20000&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=3500&diffMaxboulder=21400&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_sport_climb=1&stars=0&pitches=0&sort1=area&sort2=rating

If you add in topropes are significantly more.

If you can afford a set of nuts, go to Toe-Jo, there are sport routes, but a few of the first bolts have been chopped because they can be naturally protected

Thanks a mill for the replies:

(I think I can only post twice a day with forum-noob status)
 
 I probably should have said at the start that I'd checked out all the places I'd mentioned AND THE CLIMBS IN THEM to see what was suitable. I wasn't clear about that. I did a fair bit of research. I was just looking for some sneaky local steers on top of it :) Peoples' favs etc.
 
 @NKane - awesome, thanks.
 @Harumpfster - cheers yeah, as soon as we hit Yosemite we'll pick up what we can in that regard. We have plenty of time after we get there to study up and possibly harangue fellow Half Dome Village campers about climbing spots :) This trip was in jeopardy right up to Thurs, and I genuinely thought I would not make it, so I'm less organised than usual.
 @Frank...thankfully we didn't. We booked the trip mainly to hike and sight see but I got really into climbing in the meantime (she had climbed before). Any climbing we do is a bonus.But we're determined to find some at least...its Yosemite...
 @Ed, Brandon, John. Great stuff. Appreciate it. Toe-Jo sounds interesting but we'll probably not risk it. We're pushing it a little as is.
 
 I was there this time last year hiking before I'd ever even seen a climbing harness, and I was transfixed by the El Cap climbers. It was one of the most inspiring things I've ever seen. For years I was saying I'd try climbing so I finally went for it late last November. And needless to say I'm regretting not doing it sooner. Enough shitetalk from me....thanks again

Alright so. I have a plan I think. Keep it simple.

Two days of climbing:

Day 1: Checking out the bolted climbs at Five and Dime & then Pat and Jack. Within walking distance of each other.

Day 2: Slip On Slime and a snoop around Middle Cathedral, which is a cracking spot, then some of the day chilling and gazing up the El Cap climbers and a snoop around Moby Dick in case a top rope opportunity happens.

If 75% of that happens I'll be happy. Cheers for the steers.

Gar McEbbs wrote: Alright so. I have a plan I think. Keep it simple.

Two days of climbing:

Day 1: Checking out the bolted climbs at Five and Dime & then Pat and Jack. Within walking distance of each other.

Day 2: Slip On Slime and a snoop around Middle Cathedral, which is a cracking spot, then some of the day chilling and gazing up the El Cap climbers and a snoop around Moby Dick in case a top rope opportunity happens.

If 75% of that happens I'll be happy. Cheers for the steers.

Good plan, but one clarification - Five and Dime and Pat and Jack's are not walking distance from each other. 

Five and Dime is approached from above via Big Oak Flat Road. Park as for Reed's Pinnacle and take care to find the right trail, which is right before the tunnel. If you take one of the janky fake trails you wind up in loose, steep poison oak hell.

Pat and Jack's is just a short drive down 140; park where there's a lot and vault toilet on the left.

Enjoy!

Thanks so much. I better stop before I make even more of a fool of myself...
Cheers

PS, anywhere is walking distance technically though isn't it? :)

The gazing up at El Cap climbers is called 'doing El Cap lieback' - fun to pick out the Nose features

Slip on Slime is not wet this time of year, so should be fun and you can TR Together Forever from same anchor (love the undercling, lieback flakes, and scary face move finish)

Middle Cathedral is home of CPOF, and you can TR the first pitch if you get someone to drag your rope up - same goes with Pee Pee Pillar - really love the right side.

Other El Cap base routes that might have a TR on them - Sacherer Cracker, Little John Right, La Cosita, Right or Left

Post up some pics!

Cookie Sheet

Agreed that Five and Dime should be your primary objective. The three sport climbs there (Mockery, Bijou, and Nickel Bag) are bolted as sport climbs. Many other areas have "bolted" climbs that are indicated as sport climbs -- but are really more like trad climbs with no natural protection, so approach them with caution. I've never climbed it, but on MP the above recommended "Cookie Sheet" says there are four bolts in the 160' P1. A good rule of thumb is if you can't see the bolts from the bottom, don't assume they'll appear as you're climbing.

If you're able to set up top rope on trees, there are more options (you can pick up the Sport Climbs and Topropes supertopo guidebook for more ideas). If you can get your hands on a crash pad, I would recommend bouldering to supplement the limited amount of moderate sport. Fun stuff scattered all around the valley.

Parkline Slab and Cookie Sheet.  Both are on the road toward El Portal.

If one wants more bolts on a climb on the Cookie Sheet, just lie down on the slab and the friction will hold you as well as a bolt.

That being said, if you want a good selection of 5.10 sport routes, leave the valley and hit Gold Wall in Jamestown.

Gar, please look at a photo of poison oak before you arrive!  It’s pretty prevalent both places. And watch for rattlesnakes. I saw a big one coiled up in the sun on the approach to five and Dime once!

Cookie Sheet is very fun - forgot about that option - nice uphill talus approach. Need 2 60Ms to rap. See topo for pro (some routes are mixed). Dark Side 5.7 and Slipstream 5.8 are fun warm ups.

@Ed Henicle - right on. Thanks

@Kevin @Brian & @Ned. Thanks fellas - more great advice. There's nothing like local knowledge.

@Phylp - long pants and sleeves for the trek for def. Poison ivy isn't indigenous to Ireland but we'll have an American in the group in case I don't spot it. I think just avoiding any vegetation is a good plan...and snakes...can do without that too!