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Best Moab Area Crack/Trad Crags (that are not Indian Creek)

Original Post
Timothy Carlson · · NorCal · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

Hey Ya'll,

I'll be headed up to the Moab area later this month for some cragging. My partner and I love crack climbing, but we don't have the rack needed to climb at the Creek (i.e. 12 pieces of the same size.). Instead, we're looking for some shorter, single pitch crags with routes that can be climbed with a standard double rack. Neither of us have ever climbed in the Moab area, and the sheer amount of routes on MP are a little daunting to sort through. Any help to narrow down our search would be much appreciated!

For reference, our rack will be sized fingers to a #4 BD, along with plenty of passive pro. In terms of difficulty, we're looking for a large concentration of moderates up to 5.10. We are not ruling out multipitch routes.

Thanks in Advance!

Edit: I'm not ruling out Indian Creek entirely. Rather, any long, uniform splitter cracks that we are not equipped to climb. If there are crags in IC that fit the profile, then we're all game. 

Zachary Winters · · Winthrop, WA · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 430

Having only a double rack isn't reason alone to avoid the Creek. It's a busy place with lots of folks in the same boat, so if you're friendly you can easily team up with others. That said, if solitude is your style, you do need a pretty big rack to head to obscure walls on your own.
I like splitters so I'm not much help I know, but if I wanted to climb in the desert with tons of options for a double rack I'd probably head to Red Rock. Have fun!!

nw coast · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

Hey Timothy, my partner and I rolled into Moab tonight and are in the same boat. Wanting to check out the Creek but have only 2.5 racks between us with triples up to #2. You still in town? We're from Squamish and have never climbed on sandstone, and hoping to meet some new people to get up some easy classics.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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