Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

At least he acknowledges in the vid description that he made alot of mistakes that he now knows better on.

when i hear "climber dies at local crag" this is pretty much what I think is going on.

Unfortunately, it seems more often to be experienced climbers rapping off the ends of their ropes....

JRZane wrote: when i hear "climber dies at local crag" this is pretty much what I think is going on.

Unfortunately, it seems more often to be experienced climbers rapping off the ends of their ropes....

More than often enough it's people getting killed by the grigri death machine. Next would be the rope ends thing. Why people just don't have 80-100m ropes I'll never understand.

You routinely carry around a 100m rope?  An 80m?  

If you're going to all that trouble, why not just use 4 ropes for every lead?  Clearly safer. 

Or maybe you're trolling.  

Christopher Smith wrote:

As soon as he saw that block I knew he was going to put a piece behind it.....fuck me that's some nasty cringe.

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

Mark Andes wrote:

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

What was so off about that placement? Seems in good range and rock flaring the right direction for a downward force. Is it because it'll walk when moving past and warrants a larger piece?

Mark Andes wrote:

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

Holy shit bro you watched past 1:10???

zoso wrote: You routinely carry around a 100m rope?  An 80m?  

If you're going to all that trouble, why not just use 4 ropes for every lead?  Clearly safer. 

Or maybe you're trolling.  

2 80m halfies and 2 sts of tri-cams minimum or go home

greggrylls wrote:

I sweat more watching videos like this than actually climbing.   That first piece.... cringe   

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

ViperScale . wrote:

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

Yeah I dunno man - I see the same thing and am just as confused.  Must be GoPro magic...

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Does anybody have a link to that video where the guy finishes the climb, walks around for a full minute at the top of the cliff, passing multiple large trees while looking for a spot to build a belay, and then inexplicably begins downclimbing and falls?

That was a guy in Arkansas!  Oh man, I couldn't believe that.  While I was living in the area, I reached out to him and offered to show him some quick tricks for setting elevated tree anchors but we never ended meeting up.  What blew my mind, was that he was so proud of what happened, like yah, you're a badass alright.

ViperScale . wrote:

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

I went and did this climb after seeing this video.  A friend sent it to me after suggesting we check out that crag.   There is a good left food he is standing on.  It's definitely not vertical but not low angle slab whatever that means (it's 5.9)  Quartzite so surprisingly some positive edges bring the grade down.

To update that flake is worse in person and there is a splitter .4 crack I used next to it.  Also, that first nut he placed is pretty parallel I couldn't find anything better but I think it could shear through.  Have a friend who broke his ankle on this climb falling off pulling up above the jugs.  Glad this guy made it out alive. Frankly, this strategy of hanging on blindly placed nuts above ledges will bite him in that ass eventually.

SmithVentures wrote:
That was a guy in Arkansas!  Oh man, I couldn't believe that.  While I was living in the area, I reached out to him and offered to show him some quick tricks for setting elevated tree anchors but we never ended meeting up.  What blew my mind, was that he was so proud of what happened, like yah, you're a badass alright.

I still can't believe that tipped out number 3 caught him.  I remember that video perfectly

Here's my housemate and I being fairly pedestrian

Same:

Does this count?

bkozak wrote: https://youtu.be/7uaOkZBfg9s
Does this count?

“how to trad gear”

The example is with a tricam! That falls into the awesome category 

Mark O'Neal wrote: The example is with a tricam! That falls into the awesome category 

and with the white tricam that is for Aid Only....

Dead Head wrote:

I thought this was gonna turn into some kind of porn

Nah, acting quality wasn't good enough.

holy shit the ice holdz video has to be a spoof right?