Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

You routinely carry around a 100m rope?  An 80m?  

If you're going to all that trouble, why not just use 4 ropes for every lead?  Clearly safer. 

Or maybe you're trolling.  

Christopher Smith wrote:

As soon as he saw that block I knew he was going to put a piece behind it.....fuck me that's some nasty cringe.

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

Mark Andes wrote:

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

What was so off about that placement? Seems in good range and rock flaring the right direction for a downward force. Is it because it'll walk when moving past and warrants a larger piece?

Mark Andes wrote:

How about that green cam at 11:10?  

Holy shit bro you watched past 1:10???

zoso wrote: You routinely carry around a 100m rope?  An 80m?  

If you're going to all that trouble, why not just use 4 ropes for every lead?  Clearly safer. 

Or maybe you're trolling.  

2 80m halfies and 2 sts of tri-cams minimum or go home

greggrylls wrote:

I sweat more watching videos like this than actually climbing.   That first piece.... cringe   

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

ViperScale . wrote:

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

Yeah I dunno man - I see the same thing and am just as confused.  Must be GoPro magic...

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Does anybody have a link to that video where the guy finishes the climb, walks around for a full minute at the top of the cliff, passing multiple large trees while looking for a spot to build a belay, and then inexplicably begins downclimbing and falls?

That was a guy in Arkansas!  Oh man, I couldn't believe that.  While I was living in the area, I reached out to him and offered to show him some quick tricks for setting elevated tree anchors but we never ended meeting up.  What blew my mind, was that he was so proud of what happened, like yah, you're a badass alright.

ViperScale . wrote:

Is this just extremely a slab climb or is he on top rope? I see points in the video that it looks like a small finger crack with no big holds / ledges to stand on yet I see him take both hands off the wall to pick out gear to place. This is kinda confusing and I don't see a way to take both hands off the wall with feet like that see the placing of the gear around 5:05.

I went and did this climb after seeing this video.  A friend sent it to me after suggesting we check out that crag.   There is a good left food he is standing on.  It's definitely not vertical but not low angle slab whatever that means (it's 5.9)  Quartzite so surprisingly some positive edges bring the grade down.

To update that flake is worse in person and there is a splitter .4 crack I used next to it.  Also, that first nut he placed is pretty parallel I couldn't find anything better but I think it could shear through.  Have a friend who broke his ankle on this climb falling off pulling up above the jugs.  Glad this guy made it out alive. Frankly, this strategy of hanging on blindly placed nuts above ledges will bite him in that ass eventually.

SmithVentures wrote:
That was a guy in Arkansas!  Oh man, I couldn't believe that.  While I was living in the area, I reached out to him and offered to show him some quick tricks for setting elevated tree anchors but we never ended meeting up.  What blew my mind, was that he was so proud of what happened, like yah, you're a badass alright.

I still can't believe that tipped out number 3 caught him.  I remember that video perfectly

Here's my housemate and I being fairly pedestrian

Same:

Does this count?

bkozak wrote: https://youtu.be/7uaOkZBfg9s
Does this count?

“how to trad gear”

The example is with a tricam! That falls into the awesome category 

Mark O'Neal wrote: The example is with a tricam! That falls into the awesome category 

and with the white tricam that is for Aid Only....

Dead Head wrote:

I thought this was gonna turn into some kind of porn

Nah, acting quality wasn't good enough.

holy shit the ice holdz video has to be a spoof right?

Big B wrote: holy shit the ice holdz video has to be a spoof right?

That hold appears on their site...so maybe?  Now we can learn all the trads!  I mean....if you want to learn how to place one piece in that one size....and then snake the webbing down the crack...which is sorta sexy but I am not sure what he's doing there.

Mark Andes wrote: 

That hold appears on their site...so maybe?  Now we can learn all the trads!  I mean....if you want to learn how to place one piece in that one size....and then snake the webbing down the crack...which is sorta sexy but I am not sure what he's doing there.

That size gear I don't want to fall on when the gear is on solid rock. No gym in the right mind would let someone place that kind of gear and be on lead. I think it wouldn't be terrible idea to have holds like that in a gym for placing gear but if I was a gym I would have a draw hanging right next to it so they are still clipping into something solid as they go up.

Here is what they say about the holds. They will not take a hold so you can't lead on them, purely for placing gear and they only show like 3 different ones so really pretty useless. One of the 3 is just a chicken head so kinda pointless, 1 looks like it is a wedge for taking different size nuts, and then the one from the video which would only take tiny cams. The problem with holds like their nut one is since it takes any size nut it doesn't teach you how to figure out the correct size and really would cause more damage to someone learning to lead than help.

RockHoldz were designed for instructors and rock climbers as a training aid for practice in setting anchors.  RockHoldz are great for all levels of teaching and instruction for equalizing anchors. Designed with a reinforced patent pending skeleton, RockHoldz will hold static weight to allow for testing of proper gear placement.  RockHoldz may be used for lead climbing in conjuction with an auto belay.  (RockHoldz will not take dynamic falls.) 

ViperScale . wrote:

That size gear I don't want to fall on when the gear is on solid rock. No gym in the right mind would let someone place that kind of gear and be on lead. I think it wouldn't be terrible idea to have holds like that in a gym for placing gear but if I was a gym I would have a draw hanging right next to it so they are still clipping into something solid as they go up.

(Is joke....as in I was joking).  Otherwise yes I think its clear that they did not intend anyone to be placing gear in them as protection.