Harding Slot sender's measurements

I am curious how small the Harding Slot on Astroman really is. So if you've sent the the Harding Slot, be a pal and post up your measurements and experience in the Slot here. Or if you know of folks who have sent the Harding Slot, how big are they? Any barrel chested or buxom ascents? I know John Long was in on the FFA. Did he lead or follow the slot? Or did he climb the outside layback? I am a pretty skinny dude, but I'm also nearly 6 foot, so not tiny. Wondering, if I get my crack climbing to that level, if I'd have a shot... 31" waist, 41" chest. 

I'm 6' and when I did that climb I was 145 lbs.  I remember at the narrowest part I couldn't quite take a full breath as my chest and back were slightly constricted by the slot. 

Hi Ryan,
      I am a bit of a punter when it comes to harder rock climbs and it has been several years since I last climbed Astroman, but judging from your body dimensions as you describe I do not think you will be unable to climb the slot.  In fact your relative tallness might be a bit of an asset in starting the slot since you will be bridging a somewhat wide gap between the left and right sides at the base of the slot to to properly get established in the slot itself.  I am 5' 10" and was okay getting into the slot itself and many shorter climbers than I do just fine, but having a few extra inches of of height does not hurt at this point in the pitch.  The slot itself tends to flair outward a bit so if you are finding it a bit too tight in your chest you can move an inch or two toward the outside of the slot and will gain just a bit of extra chest room.  The previous posting was correct.  It will be tight and feel pretty confining in the tightest part of the slot.  Using your inhaling and exhaling breath cycle really helps your upward progress (exhale=collapsing your chest a bit so you can push upward, then inhaling=expanding your chest and "locking" yourself in the slot, repeat that cycle many, many times and you will climb the slot).  Its being patient--using this breathing cycle means you are moving an inch or two at a time during the tightest part of the slot.  I hope this helps and good luck!
Cheers,
Bob Loomis, Spokane, WA.

I'm 5'9 140. Fit fine. My partner is much larger. Broad shouldered and thick chested (aka actually strong). He squeezed through the slot, and with a full rack as well (nice planning). Granted, I wouldn't describe his experience as enjoyable (though watching it certainly was), but if he fit through with all the stuff, then I think most anyone can get through the thing. 

You'll fit.

SpokaneBob wrote: Using your inhaling and exhaling breath cycle really helps your upward progress (exhale=collapsing your chest a bit so you can push upward, then inhaling=expanding your chest and "locking" yourself in the slot, repeat that cycle many, many times and you will climb the slot.

Love it!  Will look forward to his section on 'chest jamming' in John Long's next book ...

The Crux is getting into the chimney. Tight polished hands then work chicken wings ip until your feet get purchase. Once in the chimney it's totally easy. Relax and move whenever you see fit. Take your time and enjoy the shade.

My partner hung his CamelBak and helmet to follow it. I probably took my helmet off too. I can't remember.

Didn't Dean Potter solo it? He was a fairly big guy for an elite climber. If he fit, ropeless and unconcerned, I imagine you are fine.

Pretty sure Largo didn't fit. I was always terrified of the thing so don't know.

Hermann Wing famous strongman beefcake of the 80's from Mexico always had to do it on the outside (couldn't lead it).

He was the guy who did 5.12 thin hands and refused to ever jam thumbs down kind of stronk.

Keenan Waeschle wrote: You'll fit.

Yup.

Will I fit? (6'3, 190 pounds)

5’7” 120lbs...will I just slide out?

This makes me almost have a panic attack just thinking about "not fitting."

i don't think a circumference of the chest is a good measurement. Shouldn't the measurement be taken from the sternum to the spine with a linear measurement, aka Anterior to Posterior?  I'm not sure if I would have fit. I'll measure it soon. When I did it, I ended up swinging out on TR to do the lieback, I wish there were good bolts to lead that safely.

My buddy who led after I backed off had done this boulder a bunch and said it was a great simulator. You live like 20 minutes away, so you will know if you’ll fit or not. 

It’s gotten “roomier” every time for me. And I haven’t gotten smaller. It’s all in your head.

Jon Rhoderick wrote: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/113434018/510-squeeze-chimney
My buddy who led after I backed off had done this boulder a bunch and said it was a great simulator. You live like 20 minutes away, so you will know if you’ll fit or not. 

I'm on the north side of the lake, so more like an hour and twenty minutes, but I'll give it a shot. Walked by that one many times. Thanks for the info.

I just measured my chest anterior to posterior at 8 5/8 inches.  I maybe could squeeze another 1/8 so call it 8.5 inches.  I tried before and couldn't do it, but am not sure if that was lack of skill or my body style.  Hopefully I will try it again sometime soon.  Anyone know what the actual slot measures?

Anyone?

Stop worrying and just go on the outside. It's only a few feet of laybacking until you can get knee jams and it looks like it would protect reasonably well with a 6. For reference I am pretty thick chested and can no longer fit through the narrows on stecke-salathe, although I used to be able to.

I want to say that it's most likely just in your head and with the right technique and attitude, you can get through it.... But then pffff, who am I to say? I've only witnessed half a dozen male partners through the slot, sized from M to XL (by my estimate).

Linked here is an animation (thus not embeddable on MP): Harding Slot Training Beta. Yes, you can!

dindolino32 wrote: I just measured my chest anterior to posterior at 8 5/8 inches.  I maybe could squeeze another 1/8 so call it 8.5 inches.  I tried before and couldn't do it, but am not sure if that was lack of skill or my body style.  Hopefully I will try it again sometime soon.  Anyone know what the actual slot measures?

I've wriggled through the slot a couple of times, it was a while ago but I've not changed size or shape significantly since. I'm 5'9" and 158lbs. Chest front-back distance will be the limiting factor and I measure ~8 1/2 inches breathing out fully and 9 inches breathing in. I had a little space to spare. There used to be a couple of posts in the courtyard of Yosemite Lodge which you could try squeezing between as a trial run, they were much tighter than the slot.

Keenan Waeschle wrote: You'll fit.

I think so too

Mei (pronounced as May) wrote: I want to say that it's most likely just in your head and with the right technique and attitude, you can get through it.... But then pffff, who am I to say? I've only witnessed half a dozen male partners through the slot, sized from M to XL (by my estimate).

Linked here is an animation (thus not embeddable on MP): Harding Slot Training Beta. Yes, you can!