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Climbing sans-helmet

Original Post
Fernando Cal · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30

Why do some people opt to not wear helmets, especially when leading on trad? Does the extra weight of the helmet throw the balance off? Is it hard to sink hands in cracks with a helmet? I don't get it, maybe that's why I can't lead anything past moderates. Can a no-helmet-wearing-climber chime in? 

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

No, this won't be controversial. Not at all.

stephen arsenault · · Wolfeboro, NH · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 72

Depends on when you started climbing. I've been climbing over 50 years and nobody wore a helmet back then except on big alpine routes. It's simply a matter of individual choice. Leave it at that.

NegativeK · · Nevada · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 40

Climbing is risky. We all -- even gym top ropers -- either choose to acknowledge the risk or pretend it won't affect us.

People who don't wear helmets just draw that line in a different place.

Fernando Cal · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30

maybe if helmets came with mohawks they would be cool...like this guy

Mike-Mayhem · · North Bend, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 70

Never wear a helmet on off width lol

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0

Only time I don't wear mine is in squeeze chimneys.  Can't turn my head otherwise.

Gummy F · · Akron, OH · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 2,643

Fernando Cal wrote:Why do some people opt to not wear helmets, especially when leading on trad? Does the extra weight of the helmet throw the balance off? Is it hard to sink hands in cracks with a helmet? I don't get it, maybe that's why I can't lead anything past moderates. Can a no-helmet-wearing-climber chime in?

The reason some people don't wear helmets is the same reason people opt to free solo, as opposed to using a rope. It is a matter of comfort, it may be irresponsible, but so is lead climbing. The safest kind of climber is the one who doesn't climb. It is all risk tolerance.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

Almost nobody wore a helmet, except on alpine routes, until around the early 2000s.  I climbed for about a decade before I even owned one.  Now I wear one anytime I'm leading anything outdoors.  

Somehow they caught on, I think because they look less dorky.

Fernando Cal · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30
Mae Rae wrote: Almost nobody wore a helmet, except on alpine routes, until around the early 2000s.  I climbed for about a decade before I even owned one.  Now I wear one anytime I'm leading anything outdoors.  

Somehow they caught on, I think because they look less dorky.

I still think majority of helmets look dorky; it depends on your head shape and hair style too (ladies). I personally don't like the sound and feeling of free-falling rocks or carabiners hitting my helmet, but better than the alternative. 

Chalk in the Wind · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 3

They mess up my hair.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0

Why do you feel the need to preach?  Guised (thinly) as a question.

Ira OMC · · Hardwick, VT · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 730

Obviously, you look cooler without one. More practically, your brain gets fried on hot days inside of the head cooker.

That said, I kinda feel naked without one after consistently wearing one for the last few years. It's like wearing a seatbelt , once you are in the habit you just put it on whether you really need it or not 

Roots · · Wherever I am · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

I wear helmet for trad, alpine class 4 or higher, and while on ice...

F Loyd · · Kennewick, WA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 808

Is a helmet more important for the climber or belayer? 

Fernando Cal · · SLC, UT · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 30

i think most replies are from people that wear helmets or typically wear helmets except when climbing offwidths. And im not trying to preach (Eric), just looking for input of climbers that chose to tie in and use protection but no helmet (bouldering and free solo climbers excluded). What is the decision making process that dictates, "ehh i dont need this"?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

If I'm single-pitch climbing, I don't care if my partner wears a helmet. That's their call.

If I'm multipitch climbing, I would prefer my partner wear a helmet, as an injured partner could cause both of us to be stranded and need rescue.

Shane F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 1

Why don't we see people wearing helmets in the gym or while bouldering? It is all about perceived risk and personal choice. Climbing as a whole is about personal risk assessment. I wear a helmet when leading but rarely if I am on top rope. I prefer that my belayers wear a helmet when leading but not when I am on top rope. Multipitch routes generally merit a helmet due to the nature of the beast in my opinion. That being said, I don't feel like anyone choosing to go sans helmet is going to change my experience in any of these situations, it is their choice.

Eliot Augusto · · Lafayette, CO · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 60

It depends on the objective. My decision making for wearing a helmet is entirely judged by the likelihood that something is going to come down from above and hit me. There are only a handful of climbing helmets that are rated for side impact, and my personal preference pushes me to go for a helmet which has the highest top-down impact rating. When I purchased my helmet the best top-down impact rating didn't have any side impact rating. I've had several fist size rocks and ice chunks hit my head with a helmet on, and no need for replacement. That durability appeals to me more than the side impact rating of the soft foam helmets that are good for 1 collision or so. Maybe my information is outdated, but I haven't had an issue so far.

With the above in mind, I decide based on the area I'm going to and in general the activity. If it is well traveled sport, I'll almost never wear it. If it is trad cragging, then it depends on where. If it is trad adventure climbing, always. If it is sport adventure climbing, always.

FWIW The last time I debated about wearing my helmet I was hit in the head with a rock, and I decided not to wear it. That was a Class 3 hike/scramble.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

Whatevs, man. If you wear a helmet, just be sure it looks really ugly. Make it your style.

I prefer not to wear a helmet toproping, however. Forget that noise, man.

I also just ate half a container of Safeway guacamole. That's how I roll, dog.

Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Fernando Cal wrote: Why do some people opt to not wear helmets, especially when leading on trad? Does the extra weight of the helmet throw the balance off? Is it hard to sink hands in cracks with a helmet? I don't get it, maybe that's why I can't lead anything past moderates. Can a no-helmet-wearing-climber chime in? 

Ya know all those people that smoke cigarettes despite the millions of warnings that it will definitely kill you? It's kind of like that.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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