Edelrid Canary 8.6 Single Rope

Hey Tom! I wish I could give you better advice regarding durability---but I've only had my Canary a few weeks....handles very nicely, super svelte.....I wish Edelrid imported the other color (they make an orange version in Europe), so I could rock both cords when leading for two followers.....but I digress!

I'll definitely let you know how the Canary wears....for what it's worth, another 10% sheath content over the Opera (51g/m vs. 47g/m for the Opera) seems like it will dramatically increase durability.....perhaps less of a concern if you're using them as ice lines.....

But I'll keep in touch and let you know....Rob 

kck wrote:

Are these sub 9 mm ropes burly enough to work routes with? What do you (asking everyone) use them for?

I use Decathlon Edge 8.9mm 80m for everything sport. When it wores out I just cut 10' or so. It is long enough to survive half a dozen those shortenings and it is cheap as shit so it is no brainier (but a bit of environment impact shame) to get another one as the current rope becomes too short.

Hi Tom! I’ve used the 50m Canary for easy alpine ridges in Austria/Germany and am very pleased with the rope. Definitely feels more stiff than my Mammut but also more durable. After much deliberation, I chose it over the Mammut Serenity because of the higher sheath percentage. Still to find out how well it holds up but I am positive so far. 

I have the Edelrid Boa and I've been thrilled with it so I'll always give a +1 for Edelrid. That being said I'd get the heeby jeebies whipping on that dental floss. I'm sure it's great and lightweight as hell but personally I'd have durability concerns getting that thing on a single rope.

Thx for all the feedback folks!!

Everywhere I've looked for info, there were only words of praise for Genesis' durability (and Mammut's in genera, which I`m aware of, having a mammut rope myself). As for the Canary, other than the ones here, there weren't many reviews out there, which I guess has to do with it being rather "new". However, I think I'll go for the latter because of the extra versatility it offers, being single rope as well.

On this regard, from what I've seen so far, the rope is unique. All the other <9 triple rated ropes I've heard about, have a smaller sheath ratio (35%ish), mainly because they need to make space for a core strong enough to meet single rope standard. At this point is where the Canary is one of a kind: it does meet such standard while still keeping a large sheath proportion (47%), and everything in just 8.6mm. Since the model wasn't released long ago, guess it'll take some years to see its results on the field, though from your feedback and others I read..so far so good

BTW, Jozsef, which Mammut rope model do you refer to, when saying the Canary is stiffer?

And yeah, I agree it may look as a dental floss when used as a single rope. But guess that single rope rating is meant to be used in particular alpine conditions, and not for working a route on the crag.

Tom, it's a Zopa 9.7mm, definitely much softer, also a great rope. 

someone did a review of sub 9mm ropes recently,  which included swift and canary

http://blacksheepadventuresports.com/2018/10/13/comparison-review-sub-9mm-climbing-ropes/

any longer term updates on durability guys?

Hi Senders, I'm currently in Vegas, climbing on the Canary daily....so far so very good! Did Frigid Aire Buttress today, which requires double-rope rappels, so we took the Canary and an Edelrid Apus 9.7mm half rope.....belayed them both with a MegaJul and performed well. Used the Canary yesterday as well, will spend the remainder of the week using it....more soon. 

Home from Vegass....great week out there with the Canary (triple rated), as well as an Edelrid Swift Eco 9.8 (triple rated) and Edelrid Apus 7.9mm (half/twin)...

Did DOWT, some sport-wanking, Cookie Monster to Cat in the Hat, short-roped some guests a bit (not a ton)....photo'd the Canary after the week and impressed with how it came thru. I tried to photo the only fuzziness I could find, which wasn't much at all. Check it out. I was obviously careful with the ropes all week, check out the pics. The Canary's 47% sheath percentage seems worth the extra 3g/m compared to the Beal Opera 8.5mm single. Loving the rope--probably 50 pitches on it so far. 

Paired the Canary with the Edelrid Apus 7.9mm (half-twin) for Dream...works nicely...normally I would've had the matched Apus, but I was at my weight limit for luggage! Ditched one of the twin/half ropes so I could bring a 70. Now, what would be even nicer than matched Apus cords....the Skimmer---lightest half rope in the world, 7.1mm---mega svelte! Next time. 

Inspired by another post, I weighed a brand new Edelrid Canary 8.6mm 70m rope. It is 4115g. I didn't measure it's actual length, but if it's actually 70m, that's 59g/m. If it actually measured 75m, and it that's way too generous, that would still be 55g/m. It specs at 51g/m, which should be 3570g for 70m.

Anonymous wrote:

I'm not sure you want to buy another belay device (vs a rope that works) but, doesn't the GriGri Plus and new GriGri (2019) get down to 8.5? That's what I remember seeing in a review video, anyway. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116379166/omg-should-i-buy-the-new-grigri

I was just reading this thread, and hearing how the Serenity 8.7 works in the Grigri 2 pretty well? I just bought a Serenity 8.7, and was thinking about getting the new Grigri and/or the Grigri+ because of the 8.5 minimum rating versus the Grigri 2, which I currently have. The Grigri 2 is rated minimum 8.9. This thread is stating from a general consensus to not worry about the Serenity 8.7 in the Grigri 2, it works pretty well. I suppose I’m not gonna pony up for the new Grigri. But, the new one has a bit more safety factor w the thinner threads. Anyone else want to upgrade to the new Grigri? Thoughts? 

Any recent usage updates on the Canary?

I find that a low mile petzl reverseo works well with the skinnys(opera) . When the device gets worn save it for fatter ropes. 

I think the weight specs on many small ropes are wrong. Buyer beware.

So far, so good with the Canary....bunch of days guiding with it and some short-roping. The 47% sheath percentage seems like it's proving very durable. I begged Edelrid for the other color (orange), but they don't import it. Damn! Trailing two of these while guiding 2:1 would be great....I'm loving the Canary....wish I had it in a 70, as it'd be an awesome Vegas rope. I have their Swift in a 70, which is abso phenomenal, too......

coppolillo wrote: So far, so good with the Canary....bunch of days guiding with it and some short-roping. The 47% sheath percentage seems like it's proving very durable. I begged Edelrid for the other color (orange), but they don't import it. Damn! Trailing two of these while guiding 2:1 would be great....I'm loving the Canary....wish I had it in a 70, as it'd be an awesome Vegas rope. I have their Swift in a 70, which is abso phenomenal, too......

Edelrid rep says they will be importing a second color on the Canary to the states - I believe 2020 but I can't remember what they said now (plus I'm also remembering them saying bright pink - but we talked about a lot of stuff so we might be mis-remembering).

I used the Canary in the Winds and the Black Hills and I love it. Feels pretty durable and feeds nicely. Definitely recommended.

Finally a rope light enough for your next single pitch multi pitch: exxpozed.com/edelrid-canary…;

yes, the second color is pink...and yes it's awesome............and......i'm a fucking idiot because.......my Canary was still in awesome shape, after 2.5 weeks of guiding on it in september over here in chamonix.........so we just moved into a new house and i left my rope on the floor of the new garage...and guess what, our heating is via an oil boiler. fucking oil residue on the floor and it picked up oil spots all over the rope. fuck me. i gotta retire the thing.........

that said, i'll be getting a new green and a new pink for ice/rock........best rope i've ever owned. totally fantastic. i'll prob get a 40m for alpine stuff too, next summer.

great rope, idiot owner. RC!

coppolillo wrote: yes, the second color is pink...and yes it's awesome............and......i'm a fucking idiot because.......my Canary was still in awesome shape, after 2.5 weeks of guiding on it in september over here in chamonix.........so we just moved into a new house and i left my rope on the floor of the new garage...and guess what, our heating is via an oil boiler. fucking oil residue on the floor and it picked up oil spots all over the rope. fuck me. i gotta retire the thing.........

that said, i'll be getting a new green and a new pink for ice/rock........best rope i've ever owned. totally fantastic. i'll prob get a 40m for alpine stuff too, next summer.

great rope, idiot owner. RC!

I’ve got a new in package green canary I’d sell for a real good deal. Hit me up in a PM if you’re interested. 

This summer I climbed about 25 pitches on alpine granite with two friends (both following at the same time on separate ropes). We used a brand new 70m dry Edelrid Canary and a brand new 70 m dry Mammut Serenity. Without a doubt, the sheath of the Edelrid Canary wears out more quickly.

Both were green so we dubbed them "dirty" and "clean", but perhaps better names would be "fuzzy" and "smooth." All my other ropes are Mammut, which I will likely stick with in the future.