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Edelrid Canary 8.6 Single Rope


Original Post
Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

Any beta testers had a chance to use this rope and have any input on handling and durability? I've never used an Edelrid rope. It is listed as having a sheath percentage of 47-48% vs the 37% Beal Opera 8.5 and the 38% Mammut Serenity 8.7. That is very appealing to me. I have used the Beal Opera extensively in the past and found that it wore out quicker than acceptable for me, and it didn't work very well with a GriGri2. The Mammut Serenity ropes I've used have done much MUCH better in every regard, and it remains my go to rope for just about everything I do.

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

I love that Serenity, too...but generally use Edelrid cords...haven’t used the Canary yet...psyched to check it out. I love their Swift, 8.9, durable like the Serenity...handles well, hoping the Canary is a lighter, but similar handling version! Let me know if you get a Canary...

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I haven't used it yet, but Tendon is coming out with the Master 8.6 next year. It is the rope that Adam Ondra sent Silence (5.15d) with. I'm trying to find out the sheath percentage for it. 

kck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 85

Are these sub 9 mm ropes burly enough to work routes with? What do you (asking everyone) use them for?

Kyle Elliott · · Everett, WA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 580
kck wrote:

Are these sub 9 mm ropes burly enough to work routes with? What do you (asking everyone) use them for?

I wouldn't. I use 9.8-10.2mm for working routes. 

Different brand than the OP posted obviously but this is on Sterling rope's page for their 9mm


"Due to the Nano's small diameter, it is recommended that it only be used by experienced climbers and belayers and NOT for top-roping or working of routes. It is critical that proper belay devices be used and extreme caution should be taken."

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

I agree with Kyle. Though I do know some smaller climbers ~125 lbs. that work routes on 9mm. They go through ropes more quickly than most do, but they also work at gear shops and get employee pricing so they don't worry too much about durability. For me 6'3" and 200 lbs. I trust these thin ropes, but I'm not working routes with them. They get reserved for redpoint attempts or a route I'm thinking I have a good shot at onsighting. They are also great for alpine routes where you want to save weight and pack space. Awesome pricing on ropes onredcanyonropes.com


Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

I use the Serenity 8.7 for typical trad and ice. I use a Mammut Revelation 9.2 for working routes/sport. I weigh 168-175 depending on how badly I have to poop. I want the Canary for trad, but if it turns out to be durable, I don’t see why I wouldn’t use it for working routes, especially if it works with a Grigri2 (the 8.7 Serenity does, the 8.5 Opera doesn’t).

Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 845

Anyone use the Canary 8.6 yet? I'm thinking of grabbing one for a sending/alpine rope once my Sterling Nano 9 dies but am on the fence after trashing that rope a bit quicker than hoped.

Conor Mark · · Asheville, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 670

Are the weight savings with these ropes noticeable? Seems like the equivalent of my bmx friends who would remove spokes from their wheels so save weight. 

And how does it affect your digits boinking and hauling yoursef back to a draw? As an arborist my fingers feel worked ascending 11mm line that has a think hand all day compared to when I use a coworker’s 13mm line.  

Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 845

It's 50g/m. That's pretty damn light, and adds up over 70m. My intended use case for a rope like this is climbing at my limit(not working a route), or alpine climbing, where the weight of the rope on an approach matters, but likely won't be weighting the rope except on rappel. 

Brian Abram · · Celo, NC · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 478

Yeah I used it a bit before I stopped climbing due to injury this year. First, the way Edelrid coils their rope is second to none. It literally has a hole in the cardboard wrap that says “pull here” and you just pull it into a pile. No unrolling. No knots. Perfect. I could buy another Edelrid just for that. Even better than Mammut.

The rope feels fat 8.6. A Beal Opera 8.5 doesn’t work in a GriGri. A Mammut Serenity 8.7 does. It feels more similar to the Serenity. 

I haven’t used it enough to comment on its durability


climber pat · · Las Cruces, NM · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 215
kck wrote:

Are these sub 9 mm ropes burly enough to work routes with? What do you (asking everyone) use them for?

I use a mammut serenity for trad climbing. 

Christopher Smith · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 0
Brian Abram wrote:

I weigh 168-175 depending on how badly I have to poop.

7 lbs fluctuation?  Dude you're full of shit lol.

Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 845

Welp, looks like I'll be buying a 8.6 Canary shortly, I'll report back once I've beat on it a bit. 


It's kind of funny, I distinctly remember making fun of sub 10mm ropes when I started climbing not all that long ago. 

Daniel Chambo · · Chapel Hill, NC · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 60

Also curious to hear about handling and durability of this rope.  On paper it looks pretty sweet.  

Guy H. · · Fort Collins CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 7,372
Trevor. wrote:

It's 50g/m. That's pretty damn light, and adds up over 70m. My intended use case for a rope like this is climbing at my limit(not working a route), or alpine climbing, where the weight of the rope on an approach matters, but likely won't be weighting the rope except on rappel. 

The Canary is listed as 51g/m, which is only 1g/m lighter than a 9mm Nano.  I am not sure I would trade the weight of a couple biners for the increased risk of belay accident.

rkrum · · Here and there · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40
Guy H. wrote:

The Canary is listed as 51g/m, which is only 1g/m lighter than a 9mm Nano.  I am not sure I would trade the weight of a couple biners for the increased risk of belay accident.

I wouldn't be surprised if the canary is more durable than the nano, as it appears to be much denser and has a more substantial sheath. The nano is one of the least durable ropes I have ever owned.

Trevor. · · Boise, ID · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 845
Guy H. wrote:

The Canary is listed as 51g/m, which is only 1g/m lighter than a 9mm Nano.  I am not sure I would trade the weight of a couple biners for the increased risk of belay accident.

I now have both. The Canary is the superior rope in seemingly all regards. MUCH tougher sheath, ever so slightly lighter, and generally better hand to the rope. Despite being spec'd as being thinner than the nano 9, it's got roughly the same amount of substance to it, but more concentrated in the sheath, which makes it seem surprisingly durable. I haven't had issues with it being too thin and hard to handle, granted I only use it with assisted locking devices as one probably should with super skinny lines. 

Jay J · · Euelss · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

Wow, that's a pricey rope!  
If I had one of them, I'd probably baby the thing and only use when nothing else would do.  

coppolillo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 70

happy to hear that Canary is doing well! i might just have to pick one up! Edelrid also making an "Eco 8.9 Swift," passes the dry treatment, no PVCs, made of reclaimed fibers from their production process---i've loved my 8.9mm Swifts in the past, so the Eco sounds rad....

Tom Vil · · Unknown Hometown · Joined 9 days ago · Points: 0

Any other feedbacks about the Edelrid Canary 8.6?

I'm planning on buying a half rope, so my initial bet was going for the classic Mammut Genesis 8.5, but when browsing I came across the Canary, and because of a sale, I can buy either for roughly the same price. It's triple rated, so it's on the league of Serenity, Switft and the like. But even then, comparing it side by side with the Genesis (or even the Kestrels), other than having 2-3 extra g/m, the Canary seems same or better in almost every aspect, and durable as well (sheath 47%). And being triple rated!

Does it make sense for using it as a main half rope? Any feedbacks from experience using ti? Or any comments about durability?

Thx in advance!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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