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Eric Knapp
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Aug 14, 2018
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Washington, DC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 50
Yup, that happened. An unplanned bivy on the bottom of crux pitch on the casual route, some call it the Yellow Wall bivy.
We bailed off the squeeze chimney (it was nightfall with no headlamps.) If anyone found a Green Metolius Master Cam on that pitch AS WELL as a BD #2 and #3 on the Yellow wall, I would be ecstatic to have them back.
Thanks!
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Mitch Friedeman
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Aug 14, 2018
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Dec 2015
· Points: 70
Hmm I'm no ethics expert but that kind of sounds like fair booty to me. You should at least compensate them if someone tries to return your stuff.
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Pete Vastyan
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Aug 15, 2018
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Lafayette, CO
· Joined Nov 2016
· Points: 0
Did you guys get a late start or run into a big hang up? Headed up there next week and just curious
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Eric Knapp
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Aug 15, 2018
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Washington, DC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 50
Both in a sense. We didn't start our approach from our bivy around Chasm Lake until about 545-6. THEN there was quite a hang up on the start of the Casual Route even after we passed a party free soloing up the North Chimney. We were bumping into and waiting behind the parties in front of us all day. That and leaving our headlamps at our bivy (not the best idea) caused us to have to make a bivy on the wall at the ledge just before the Crux pitch.
My advice? If you aren't prepared to bivy, climb in the dark, or send entire route, rap at the top of the traverse pitch. There is tat available to make it down I'm fairly certain (although we didn't take that rap route.)
Best luck, it's a great climb unless you unexpectedly bivy...in which case it sucked ass.
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Pete Vastyan
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Aug 15, 2018
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Lafayette, CO
· Joined Nov 2016
· Points: 0
Eric, thanks for the insight. I guess you got a true alpine experience out of this route though!
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Jericho H
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Aug 18, 2018
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Buena Vista, CO
· Joined May 2018
· Points: 90
I just have to comment cause were friends but this is gold lol
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Wylie
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Aug 18, 2018
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Bishop, CA
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 46
That gear is called booty my man. It's one of the perks of trad climbing. Don't worry, in time you'll make up for it by finding other people's abandoned gear.
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Mark Westfall
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Aug 19, 2018
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Denver
· Joined Feb 2017
· Points: 0
Someone shit their pants and left their underwear full of shit on route. Was that you boys?
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Max Supertramp
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Aug 19, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 95
you weren't by any chance the group of five that required ranger escort to descend the glacier after the bail, were you?
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Tony B
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Aug 20, 2018
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Around Boulder, CO
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 24,690
Good luck getting your gear back. And good luck with people who can't tell the difference between asking if someone who is willing to give gear back and expecting it. And as for all the other stuff- bivy stuff, crowds, passing people int eh chimney, pooped pants, etc.. Well, Thinks for reminding me why I avoid the Diamond like the plague these days. Sounds like it's as nightmarishly crowded as I'd imagined.
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Eric Knapp
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Aug 20, 2018
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Washington, DC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 50
Carlos Danger and Max Supertramp -> No to both. Please tell me someone didn't shit their pants and people didn't get escorted off the glacier cause that's fucking hilarious.
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Albert C
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Aug 20, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Aug 2015
· Points: 5
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.
Rectum?! Damn near killed um! Did you make any poopsicles?
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Eric Knapp
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Aug 20, 2018
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Washington, DC
· Joined Feb 2016
· Points: 50
Albert- was it you or me that went full on Kermit the frog voice when cruxing on Long John Wall in Eldo? I think your exact phrase was “I blindly slam dunked that number 3....”
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