New and Experienced Climbers over 51

Lori Milas wrote: I'm reading the book "Play On"... and just wanting to share that the book is out, and it's pretty incredible for anyone interested in the newest science on aging and performance (and great health).  Many posts ago we talked about being dismissed by doctors who really only understand aging as a disease process.  There is an EXPECTATION of ailments, decline in health and strength, and onset of diseases.  My doctors (both my Primary and Endocrinologist) just don't know what to do with my interest in how to increase muscle mass, endurance, and climb taller mountains.  I think I mentioned that she suggested a 'fall prevention class', for seniors ...      

There is a great fitness group, Mountain Tactical... that has dozens of programs for climbing, mountaineering etc.  In response to my inquiry "At 65 you're outside the age range for most our stuff - I'm afraid it would be too intense."   So there is a real assumption made about "people over 51"... personally, it's offensive. 

Last night at the gym I crossed a plateau and it shocked me.  I got up and over an opening move that had eluded me for a month... and easily got up 3 10c's (even if they are 'really' 10 a's... I'll go with their rating).  My point is, we apparently can heal, grow muscle, strengthen tendons, improve balance, and basically Play On for some forseeable future.  Good to know.  Right now I'm focused on bone broth, for those bones, skin, nails and tendons.  (Kettle and Fire, at Whole Foods or Amazon).

I googled Mountain Tactical and it looked somewhat extreme to me. Maybe there's a middle ground between it and Ageless Grace.   

I'm curious about that opening move you got. Was it because you've gotten stronger or did you just figure out a better approach? For me, it's usually the latter.

Lori, have you watched these videos from Garmin? They seem pretty straightforward. 

​https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkIwE1NhUVY​​​

Carl Schneider wrote: I'm starting to get obsessed with trad climbing. Spent the evening watching YouTube videos on trad climbing and setting up anchors while idly playing with my cams etc.
I think I may be transitioning from a boulderer to a tradder.
It's very butterflyesque.

I don't know about you but I really enjoy the puzzle-solving aspect of trad. I like how all the various systems work together and the constant challenge of balancing simplicity with effectiveness. 

For you, Carl! Just placed when I was walking around, but, stay tuned!

Best, Helen

wendy weiss wrote:

I googled Mountain Tactical and it looked somewhat extreme to me. Maybe there's a middle ground between it and Ageless Grace.   

I'm curious about that opening move you got. Was it because you've gotten stronger or did you just figure out a better approach? For me, it's usually the latter.

Wendy, it’s a stinker! Perhaps I’ll get a picture of it tomorrow.  For sure I’m getting stronger.  I also discovered that I had to get through those first three holds quickly and dynamically because they slope.  And yes, I think this is one of those where experimentation and rehearsal helps. The whole route is graded a 10b but I watched numerous people give up on those first moves.

Señor Arroz wrote:

The hand cracks at my gym are all overhanging, too. I haven't found that to be such an issue, though. What I've learned from the basically splitter gym cracks is similar to what you're talking about; It's important to carefully calibrate how deep or shallow you place your foot in the crack or else serious pain happens. We've also got a couple good finger cracks at my gym that have taught me a lot about careful ringlocks and other finger jams. 

Overhangs and ringlocks.....I'm so not there yet! :) I think on my next lesson later this month I'll ask about those.

Lori Milas wrote:

Wendy, it’s a stinker! Perhaps I’ll get a picture of it tomorrow.  For sure I’m getting stronger.  I also discovered that I had to get through those first three holds quickly and dynamically because they slope.  And yes, I think this is one of those where experimentation and rehearsal helps. The whole route is graded a 10b but I watched numerous people give up on those first moves.

Lori, moving fast is definitely helpful on hard bits! Figure out what you're going to do (or try, at least), from a rest just before. Then, just go for it. For me, dithering is fatal on an overhang or roof! Usually it's just a few moves to something you can catch your breath on. Usually you have something doable everywhere a draw is hung, so there's that!

Best, Helen

Old lady H wrote:

Lori, moving fast is definitely helpful on hard bits! Figure out what you're going to do (or try, at least), from a rest just before. Then, just go for it. For me, dithering is fatal on an overhang or roof! Usually it's just a few moves to something you can catch your breath on. Usually you have something doable everywhere a draw is hung, so there's that!

Best, Helen

I agree 100%.  Just the other day I was doing a trad climb and got to a small roof where I couldn't see the next holds.  Had to make sure I rested as I was working out two things (1) what I thought of my last piece of protection and (2) how I was going to do the move.  Also, make sure you actually rest on the rest.  Don't just stop, make sure it really is a rest :-)

Old lady H wrote:

Lori, moving fast is definitely helpful on hard bits! Figure out what you're going to do (or try, at least), from a rest just before. Then, just go for it. For me, dithering is fatal on an overhang or roof! Usually it's just a few moves to something you can catch your breath on. Usually you have something doable everywhere a draw is hung, so there's that!

Best, Helen

Oh Helen... I sort of like to saunter and think about things for awhile when I’m on a miserable overhanging clutch.  (It’s true. I’m learning to get a move on while there is still a move to make.)

This is a pic that showed up on my FB feed today, taken In 1991 in Clear Canyon. Knowing we have climbers here who were there and climbing all these years is hard to imagine. They can say “bitd”. 
But I see this picture as a different sort of inspiration.  Friends (and myself) who are caught up in politics, job, health and sometimes broken heart, it’s easy to forget that there is a larger life possible.  “Go do something astonishing. Do what you can with what you have and it will be magnificent.”   

https://cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/59097.jpg

Hmmmm.....this beauty (above) was posted in another thread. "Trepidatious", indeed!

Lori, Lori, Lori.....sitting around in the middle of a climb?!?

Harumph.

Best, H.

Lori Milas wrote:

So, using that poor little lake, Lower Lola Montez, as my learning challenge... here's what I want the GPS to do:

1) Tell me where I have been after a long hike on an unknown trail--and what's further on up ahead.  

Easing into it I need a bit more information.  What model GPS do you have?  You may have mentioned it but I'm too lazy to go back through the 1000 posts to dig it out. 

What maps are loaded on your GPS?

Do you want to know where you have been while you are still hiking or when you get home and can plot it out on the computer?

What program are you using to look at the files on your GPS?

Old lady H wrote: https://cdn2.apstatic.com/forum/59097.jpg

Hmmmm.....this beauty (above) was posted in another thread. "Trepidatious", indeed!

Lori, Lori, Lori.....sitting around in the middle of a climb?!?

Harumph.

Best, H.

Oh Helen! That is a fabulous picture on your link. Let’s go do that! But looking at the background reminds me of how much I loved to water ski and miss it. Water has always been such an important part of my life that friends of mine wonder how I chose climbing. I’ll admit it’s the one limiting factor ever living in Joshua Tree...there aren’t many lakes. 

Yes, the art of resting during a climb. I call what you are doing a “nap”.   Trying to learn to be fully present during a rest...to consciously recover before moving on can really change the outcome of a climb. The empty spaces are important..,
Love your pictures Helen! You belong on that mountain. 

Dallas R wrote:

Easing into it I need a bit more information.  What model GPS do you have?  You may have mentioned it but I'm too lazy to go back through the 1000 posts to dig it out. 

What maps are loaded on your GPS?

Do you want to know where you have been while you are still hiking or when you get home and can plot it out on the computer?

What program are you using to look at the files on your GPS?

Dallas.... you are very sweet and generous to want to help.  You, and others, have contributed a lot to my attempts to navigate, and thank you.  I think right now I'm going to try to assemble the information I have, and what you all have given me, and work with it.  I hope to spend some time just locally with a compass.  I'm even wondering if my local junior college might have a semester class in map, compass and GPS... I think I need about that much time to absorb it all.  Joshua Tree has a one-day desert navigation class... that could also be fun.  

Thank you so much!  Really... the most unexpectedly generous and helpful group here.  Heartwarming...     

Lori Milas wrote:

I think right now I'm going to try to assemble the information I have,

It's not hard, just time consuming.  Happy trails!

I was able to manage the first few moves of the climb at the gym that had totally eluded me before.  And then I did it several more times, so it is a true 'send'...     The rest of the climb was fairly easy, up until the last few moves.  However, watching Ryan demonstrate for me, I could see him lean in far to the right, smear far to the left... to swing into those moves. Lots of hips.  (I should mention that the problem for me was that the left hold was a sloper... it looked great, it wasn't.)  
What a fun sport.  I don't know if I would ever encounter such moves outside climbing until well into the 11's and 12's... which I may never see.  But this was a nice feeling.  

I dunno.  No reason except to say EYE CANDY.     Can I share a little joy?  

Bump!

Lori Milas wrote: I was able to manage the first few moves of the climb at the gym that had totally eluded me before.  And then I did it several more times, so it is a true 'send'...     The rest of the climb was fairly easy, up until the last few moves.  However, watching Ryan demonstrate for me, I could see him lean in far to the right, smear far to the left... to swing into those moves. Lots of hips.  (I should mention that the problem for me was that the left hold was a sloper... it looked great, it wasn't.)  
What a fun sport.  I don't know if I would ever encounter such moves outside climbing until well into the 11's and 12's... which I may never see.  But this was a nice feeling.  

Funny you would say that about not using those moves until higher grades. Last weekend I was struggling to start a 5.9 outside. The first move off the ground seemed FAR harder than a 5.9 move. Then I stuck a high left foot in a tiny pocket and side-pulled really hard on a left hand hold with my weight all the way right. Suddenly my center of gravity went up and my right hand easily caught the handhold that had previously eluded me when I was trying to go straight up.

So, longwinded way of saying you won't have to wait for that to be useful.

Señor Arroz wrote:

Funny you would say that about not using those moves until higher grades. Last weekend I was struggling to start a 5.9 outside. The first move off the ground seemed FAR harder than a 5.9 move. Then I stuck a high left foot in a tiny pocket and side-pulled really hard on a left hand hold with my weight all the way right. Suddenly my center of gravity went up and my right hand easily caught the handhold that had previously eluded me when I was trying to go straight up.

So, longwinded way of saying you won't have to wait for that to be useful.

Thanks, Senor.  I seem to remember a few climbs at Joshua Tree where it was the first few moves that were so difficult.  One, in fact, that Nelson couldn't get up and over.  I think it would be helpful to bring a tall ladder.    

Lori Milas wrote:

Thanks, Senor.  I seem to remember a few climbs at Joshua Tree where it was the first few moves that were so difficult.  One, in fact, that Nelson couldn't get up and over.  I think it would be helpful to bring a tall ladder.    

I always find getting started on J-Tree slab to be the hardest thing. Once you're in motion you just keep going. But getting onto that first starting move often seems impossible.