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Personal Safety

Original Post
Lynn lmallach@sbcglobal.net · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 0

I've been using a prusik cord of 6ml on a leg of my top rope anchor as personal safety while a set the anchor. To set up - I attach the leg to tree tie, tie a figure eight on a bite, and attach my prusik between the tree and the figure eight to minimize the fall.
Thus works really well and I am able to tie the master point, equalize , while on the safety.  It's extremely efficient for me. 

I was informed this may not be safe.

Thoughts and comments.

 

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 908

Yeah. Rewrite that so people can understand it. Maybe a photo.

“You attach the leg to a tree tie?!”
  Wtf is that.
Tradiban · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 11,610
Lynn lmallach@sbcglobal.net wrote: I've been using a prusik cord of 6ml on a leg of my top rope anchor as personal safety while a set the anchor. To set up - I attach the leg to tree tie, tie a figure eight on a bite, and attach my prusik between the tree and the figure eight to minimize the fall.
Thus works really well and I am able to tie the master point, equalize , while on the safety.  It's extremely efficient for me. 

I was informed this may not be safe.

Thoughts and comments.

 

Is the system closed that your prusik is on? Meaning, is there an end to the rope that your prusik is on? Like it would slip off? That ain't safe but if you are clipped between two "legs" of an anchor you are fine.

Was there an explanation as to why someone thought it was unsafe?

Climb On · · Everywhere · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 0

Is this another one of those made today spam accounts?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

Don't let any slack develop and you should be OK.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Why would a tree wear a tie?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

It sounds like your only connection point while setting the tr anchor is your connection to the prussic.

Though probably fine, I can see how someone might cringe at a single point like that. .
A similar concept is what is taught by the amga where you start at the tree by giving yourself a “tail” of your anchor rope that will reach from the tree to the edge.Then you start the anchor as normal from the tree. This allows you to attach yourself to the rope via a grigri or whatever else you want to use that will grab the rope safely. You’ll be on a stronger safety connection and have the same level (if not more) convenience
James Lee · · Mobile, AL · Joined Mar 2017 · Points: 35

A fairly standard method is to slap a draw onto one of the bolts, clip in, and get your belay to take if needed, then build your anchor. You are still on belay throughout the whole process. Your way sounds a little convoluted.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0
James Lee wrote: A fairly standard method is to slap a draw onto one of the bolts, clip in, and get your belay to take if needed, then build your anchor. You are still on belay throughout the whole process. Your way sounds a little convoluted.

Sounds like he is setting a top rope not leading anything so I don't think your method is very useful. Without pictures his text is hard to completely understand but it sounds like he is anchoring to a tree as a safety to get down and setup a bolted anchor maybe. I know areas where getting to bolted face anchors requires really scetchy reaches over an edge which I will always PAS into somehow as a safety before I do anything else but if the anchor is in a bad enough location I have used trees or gear anchors to get down to them.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

So are you attaching to the line via an actual Prussik knot, and that’s your sole connection to the anchor?

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043

We'll see if OP comes back. 

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

elanor's been drinkin' again....

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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