Bailing in the middle of a runout / down-climbing slab ?

Situation:
 - far enough above the last piece that a fall would be unpleasant
 - not confident in being able to down-climb
 - don't like what lies ahead (no protection for a while, not easy)

Historically I go for it - even though continuing makes a longer fall possible, I feel less likely to fall climbing up than down.  Is there a better way (short of bailing at the first non-down-climbable move) ?

In particular, can one get good enough at down-climbing slab that the gap between one's up- and down-climbing slab ability becomes small (1-2 letter grades) ?

Yur gonna die!

Time to stick clip.

I don't know about you, but I magically become a stronger climber when I'm bailing down slab. What was so hard going up is now much easier on the way down! Fear is a helluva drug.

If gunning it isn't a good option (decided on a case by case basis) then communicate with your belayer, hopefully there's a good running or launch path for the belayer to run away from the wall upon. Downclimb until the inevitable slip and hope your belayer can pull in enough slack while running to keep you out of as much danger as possible. Biggest issue will be not hyperextending your foot on an edge or smallish bulge. I like to climb slab with a small 10L pack with a water bladder in it, take a fall and turn the horror into a waterslide. 

 - far enough above the last piece that a fall would be unpleasant
 - don't like what lies ahead (no protection for a while, not easy)

In particular, can one get good enough at down-climbing slab that the gap between one's up- and down-climbing slab ability becomes small (1-2 letter grades) ?

The two conditions listed above are the definition of R-rated climbing.  Slab, by it's nature, is tenuous. My approach to R-rated slab is to go up with the expectation of not falling.  Down-climbing doesn't enter into the mindset. I think that mindset would be self-defeating.  For some reason, even though we know in advance that we may not like what lies ahead, we decide to start up anyway.    When I was doing a lot of slab climbing, my approach to R-rated routes was to generally stick to ones at grades I was almost universally onsighting.  This doesn't mean they weren't scary.  

I have experienced the exact scenario you describe twice when I did make the decision to downclimb.  One time I was successful, which was good because I would have decked from about 40 feet up (I missed a bolt).  One time I was not successful, and decked and was quite injured (the crux was right at my limit and before the first bolt, I had misread the topo).

if going for it is your 'only' option, at some point you are probably going to eat a big shitburger.  you may want to hone up on your downclimbing if you are planning on climbing scary routes...

This is why you take the bolt gun or hand drill with you.

ViperScale . wrote: This is why you take the bolt gun or hand drill with you.

LOL.  Try poking a hole when you can barely stand on the slope.

Gunkiemike wrote:

LOL.  Try poking a hole when you can barely stand on the slope.

Where's that? Looks neat.

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Where's that? Looks neat.

Looks like skidmarks if you bail

Jake Jones wrote:

Looks like NC or NH.

I was thinking the same thing. Could be any of a dozen or more areas around WNC... but it probably isn't (doesn't look familiar).

Practice downclimbing in your gym training, it works wonders with your regular climbing ability as well as makes the occasional downclimb n bail alot easier.  When I'm focusing on endurance training at my gym I will get on an easier route on autobelay and just do laps up and down over and over.

Set up a toprope and try it out? Either work on it to get better or see how it goes so you know in the future. Downclimbing is supposed to put more weight on hour feet so could potentially work out ok on slab even if it's harder to place the feet as good.

Ah, might as well jump
(Jump)
Might as well jump
Go ahead an' jump (jump)
Go ahead and jump

David Kerkeslager wrote:

Where's that? Looks neat.

It's in the Adirondacks. Friction climbing at Sugarloaf.

FA was put up, onsight rope solo drilling at stances

Proper way to do things. 

Honestly this is a situation you shouldn't be in.  

This question makes me nervous. 

Great question we have probably all pondered.
I don’t remember the quote exactly, or even who said it, but someone back in the ‘60’s or 70’s noted that down climbing will get you out of more difficult situations than any other skill.
 In mountaineering situations, down climbing is often much faster and safer than rappelling (often
from questionable anchors in debris filled gullies.) Moreover, we often make short down climbing moves even during ascents.
People can mean different things when they refer
to “slab climbing,” and I will assume you mean friction slabs. I think that you can improve your skill at almost anything with practice. Practice on top rope first. Try it in the gym (no friction slabs in my gym), then outside. I think you will find that down climbing improves your skill going down, but also going up.