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M Mobley
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May 23, 2018
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
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Noah Yetter
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May 25, 2018
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Lakewood, CO
· Joined Jul 2015
· Points: 105
Just to pile on another foolish question: why do we not use thread locker? Certainly not Red Loctite (needs heat to loosen), but it seems like Blue or even Purple would help avoid nuts loosening while still allowing the bolt to be removed non-destructively if necessary.
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eli poss
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May 25, 2018
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
Noah Yetter wrote: Just to pile on another foolish question: why do we not use thread locker? Certainly not Red Loctite (needs heat to loosen), but it seems like Blue or even Purple would help avoid nuts loosening while still allowing the bolt to be removed non-destructively if necessary. Because we're cheap and lazy and it's not our problem. Honestly, though, I don't know why more people don't use it when placing wedge bolts.
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Nick Drake
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May 25, 2018
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Kent, WA
· Joined Jan 2015
· Points: 651
Noah Yetter wrote: Just to pile on another foolish question: why do we not use thread locker? Certainly not Red Loctite (needs heat to loosen), but it seems like Blue or even Purple would help avoid nuts loosening while still allowing the bolt to be removed non-destructively if necessary. I've used green before, it has similar properties to blue but is to designed to wick into the root of threads of a fastener that has already been assembled and torqued already.
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Darren Mabe
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May 26, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2002
· Points: 3,669
Noah Yetter wrote: Just to pile on another foolish question: why do we not use thread locker? Certainly not Red Loctite (needs heat to loosen), but it seems like Blue or even Purple would help avoid nuts loosening while still allowing the bolt to be removed non-destructively if necessary. I use the red from time to time. Or lock nuts.
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Kelley Gilleran
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May 26, 2018
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Meadow Vista
· Joined Sep 2012
· Points: 2,851
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Bago Fun
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May 27, 2018
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Littleton, CO
· Joined Jul 2017
· Points: 20
Flagging a loose bolt atop Playin' Hookie at Creek Side in Clear Creek. Right bolt on top anchor. Finger tightened and will return with wrench when I can unless someon beats me to it.
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Dave Holliday
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May 27, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Feb 2003
· Points: 1,023
Darren Mabe wrote: It's 2018. Bring a wrench with you when you go climbing. Snug up those loose nuts. Do your part and don't post a "heads up" for some one else to do it. While you're at it, stewards-in-training could also bring some quicklinks and old biners to spruce up lower-off anchors. Pack out litter. Pick up after your dog. Etc. Thanks! A few weeks ago I was climbing in Dream Canyon and got to an anchor with a rap ring on one bolt and a single quicklink on the other. Since the rope would get super-twisted on the descent, I added a biner to the quicklink. We came back to that anchor a little later after finishing another pitch and the biner was gone. Someone had snagged it a little more than an hour after I placed it.
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eli poss
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May 27, 2018
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Durango, CO
· Joined May 2014
· Points: 525
Dave Holliday wrote: A few weeks ago I was climbing in Dream Canyon and got to an anchor with a rap ring on one bolt and a single quicklink on the other. Since the rope would get super-twisted on the descent, I added a biner to the quicklink. We came back to that anchor a little later after finishing another pitch and the biner was gone. Someone had snagged it a little more than an hour after I placed it. Probably newbies who didn't understand and thought it was booty.
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Max Supertramp
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May 27, 2018
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2008
· Points: 95
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Mark E Dixon
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May 27, 2018
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Possunt, nec posse videntur
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 984
Max Supertramp wrote: no but that was booty. Is that a confession?
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M Mobley
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May 27, 2018
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
Mark E Dixon wrote: Is that a confession? Probably just busting the master of obvious' balls, just a guess
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Alex R
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May 27, 2018
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Golden
· Joined May 2015
· Points: 228
My idea on avoiding the overtightening was to carry a 4" crescent wrench. Is this the sweet spot torque wise? I already carry a standard multitool, is tightening with pliers enough torque? There are multitools built around crescent wrenches, has anyone used one that works well for climbing?
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