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New Speed Record on The Naked Edge

Matt Lawry · · Louisville, CO · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 396
nicelegs wrote: After a certain point, what is the point?
When you take a step back and look at the sport...excuse me, "lifestyle" that we all enjoy so much, it is funny how arbitrary the whole thing is. Of course there is an easier way to the top on the backside. Who gives a shit if humans are capable of 5.16, which is on a qualitative measuring scale that wasn't meant to exceed 5.9? I think the "psh, big deal" attitude can be applied to rock climbing as a whole.

If you feel accomplished by completing what you set out to achieve, cool beans. If others can draw inspiration from your achievements, share!

Now, I agree that once success is measured in mere seconds....perhaps it is time to find another challenge to conquer, but if you are having fun...why not?
Brad G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 2,610

I realize people like to argue and debate on the internet and maybe it's easy to take someone the wrong way. In person I'm sure we would all get along great. Scott and I enjoy this pointless race for a few reasons that I'll list out.

1.The Naked Edge is one of our favorite climbs and I don't mind doing the route over and over again.
2.We enjoy the light and fast style that provides an excellent workout.
3. It's fun coming up with new ideas on how to make the climb go faster.
4. Doing The Edge fast allows more time to do other fun climbs in the park.
5. It's awesome having a friendly competition with Jason and Stephan.

Posting on the internet about mere seconds being shaved off is probably not the best idea and I'm sorry if it sounded stupid or braggy. I do agree with MattL in that you can apply nicelegs's opinion to just about any sport. Doing The Naked Edge fast provides us with enjoyment and a sense of accomplishment and I respect that not everyone would feel the same way.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Nah, it's fine to brag a bit. All climbing is pointless. Heck, all life is pointless. As long as you guys are having fun.

But I really wanna see this Traxion setup...

good pro · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 25

Wow the weather must be bad, nihilism infesting an amazing feat of grace

Brad G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 2,610

We have a Duck on the first pitch anchor and a mini traxion on the anchor above the bombay chimney.Scott has the devices preset through the rope and quickly clips them into the anchor. I unclip them and leave them on the rope until I untie at the top.

J. Thompson · · denver, co · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,425
nicelegs wrote: After a certain point, what is the point?
Simple answer.

Its FUN!

They are having fun doing it.
I'm having fun Hearing about it! (Scott next time let me know, I'd love to watch!)
Again, It's FUN!

I've taken some speed laps on some things, nothing even close to this, and I can tell you that there is a whole other element to it. I think everyone should try it at whatever level they are climbing at. You'll learn a ton about being efficient and it will start to apply to other aspects of your climbing. Your "what's possible" will change. You'll get fitter and, god damn it, it's FUN!

Congrats guys! You keep blowing my mind with this stuff!

-josh
Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

In most cases records are really about mouth masturbation. But if you are having fun and not spraying too much, who cares? Given the key word/phrases posted:

enjoy this pointless race

favorite climbs

We enjoy

It's fun

other fun climbs

having a friendly

I'd say they are having fun and not spraying too much (seems like others are doing plenty of that). As for the point - when it comes to climbing there is no point and that is the point.

Stefan Griebel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 330

Great job Brad and Scott! That is just amazing.

This is definitely not a "pointless race" for me. In fact, it is the most fun climbing in Eldo I've had in years! The Naked Edge is sooo awesome and I don't think I'll ever get sick of it. I never thought I'd be the one speed climbing it, but after doing it a few times as one continuous pitch, it is just so much fun that it has become addicting.

Personally, I love how it has turned into both a real climbing + fitness endeavor. Scrambling in the Flatirons is a blast and a killer cardio workout too, but man, you just can't beat doing some *real* climbing and getting a lung-busting workout at the same time. Even if Jason and I can't get it below 25 minutes, we're still gonna try just because it is so damn fun!

It's funny - people ask me if I get out climbing much these days since I have 3 young kids, and the answer is always, "Well, not really." But in retrospect, it's only "not really" in terms of absolute time. But in terms of guidebook pitches? Thank God for speed climbing the Edge! :-)

Cheers,
Stefan

Jeff G · · Colorado · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,098

I think it's so awesome that these guys are doing this! Nice job!
And, of course, it's all pointless. It's climbing.
I guess Mr. Nicelegs doesn't get the whole climbing game if he can't figure this one out.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,705
nicelegs wrote: After a certain point, what is the point? To do the edge under an hour is a truly incredible feat, to do it under :45 is even more amazing. At what point though does it stop being climbing and it turns into a recital for rehearsed moves.
Hmmm... I have a goal for myself this fall and what's the point?
To motivate me to get out and do something that pushes me.
It's always easier not to train TODAY or RIGHT NOW.
But if I want to make my goal (all flatirons routes in the roach book) by the snow and closures, I have to get up at 5am and climb before work, jog in and jog out, climb when the weather is a little poor, etc.
So why the goal? Will it matter when the entire book is done?
I don't know - but I quit paying for PT on my knee and it's getting a lot stronger and my cardio is also getting better.

It's kinda cool that none of my pals bugs me about "what's the point?" stuff, they just come out with me to climb even if it includes runout, obscure, and dirty routes. And they ask me how that knee is doing... and I tell them "better."

Hope that's cool enough for everyone.
Sometimes you need a goal to push yourself a little.
Sometimes friendly competition is that goal.
Or maybe it's something completely different for these folks, but they are supportive of each other and having fun.

So who am I to say that they are doing it wrong?
Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

Better than sitting on the couch for sure.

Sometimes we need goals to drive us, or we are type A goal setters.

i say whatever gets you out.

Ben Walburn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 680

Haters will hate. Nice job guys.

Stefan Griebel · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 330

Just reminiscing about being really fit for an Edge speed lap, and thought I'd add the bridge-to-bridge FKT progression history to this old thread...

1980s, Bob Horan & Skip Guerin (barefoot!!?!) 45 min, ascent only.
1990s, Michael Gilbert & Rob Slater, 1h 30m CTC.
2006-09-06, Bob Rotert & Dave Vaughn, 1h 22m CTC.
2010-12-??, Scott Bennett & Blake Harrington, 1h 13m (fastest non-simul climbing).
2012-05-??, Stefan Griebel & Jason Wells, 49m 44s (simul-climbing now).
2013-01-??, Scott Bennett & Brad Gobright, 44m 00s.
2014-04-09, Stefan Griebel & Jason Wells, 40m 36s.
2014-04-22, Stefan & Jason, 35m 01s.
2014-06-09, Scott & Brad, 29m 53s.
2014-08-15, Stefan & Jason, 26m 33s.
2014-09-24, Scott & Brad, 26m 16s.
2014-10-08, Scott & Brad, 24m 57s.
2015-09-19, Stefan & Jason, 24m 29s (5m 34s to base of P1, 18m 31s both on summit)
2020-05-22, John Ebers and Ben Wilbur, 24m14s (4m40s to base of P1, 18m11s both on summit)

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 154

In a way it's too bad that Brad and Scott stopped doing this.  Brad went off wasting his time with other silly speed records, it seems.

The "what's the point" question makes no sense to me.  What's the point of climbing at all?  It's a huge athletic challenge in so many dimensions... difficulty, gear, style, and yes speed.  What's the point of running the Pike's Peak Marathon, or doing Everest fast, or the Nose speed record?  Or going for any of the big FKTs out there?  It's all just rehearsed moves, right?

I don't know about others, but I get super psyched by Stefan and Jason (and Scott and Brad) doing this iconic climb with such mastery.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,705
John RB wrote: In a way it's too bad that Brad and Scott stopped doing this.  Brad went off wasting his time with other silly speed records, it seems.

Brad also got injured on a different adventure and was kind of forced to take some time off in Jan 2016.  Not sure if that mattered or if he was already done with attempts at The Edge. 

John RB · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 154
Tony B wrote:

Brad also got injured on a different adventure and was kind of forced to take some time off in Jan 2016.  Not sure if that mattered or if he was already done with attempts at The Edge. 

Brad talks about it a little during his enormocast convo.  https://content.blubrry.com/enormocast/Enormo111BradGobright.mp3

Go to 50 min mark and listen for a few... TL;DR: he doesn't live in Boulder anymore, and he hates that the approach/descent are part of the record, but maybe he'll go for it again at some point.

He also forgets the name "Griebel."  (Unforgivable!)

One thing that's clear from listening to Brad and seeing his videos... no matter how much attention this guy gets or how famous he becomes, he'll never be a douchebag.  It's just not in him.
Ben Walburn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 680

Somebody was bound to get hurt doing this (running down the east slabs), it's good they stopped. They're good guys the both of them (can't speak for the other nefarious individuals as I don't know them) and it would be a shame to loose somebody over these shenanigans however impressive they may be. Hat's of to all of you for the amazing athleticism.    

blakeherrington · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 1,113

I do think there's a way toward (safer) races on these sorts of speed attempts, assuming some ground rules can be set up and agreed on:

  1. Don't include the descents (which, in the case of the naked edge meant racing unroped down 4th class slabs where a slip would be fatal)
  2. Require some minimum amount of protection be clipped per pitch, so as to prevent an evolution towards psuedo free-soloing. 
The speed record for the Nose already follows rule #1. Not following rule #2 has resulted in some tragic injuries and a recent 100' fall on the part of Tommy Caldwell. Stay safe and have fun out there!
WadeM · · Auburn, Ca · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 481

Love that history post, thanks Stefan!

We hit 32 mins the other day but will have to wait till fall for more attempts!

Going fast on that thing is so much fun!

Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

Someone (Tony Bubb?) up-thread mentioned the goal to climb all of the Flatirons. Here’s the visual tick list:

And here’s the Excel Spreadsheet for it: Flatirons Tick List
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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