Alex Megos sends 5.15c

Alex Megos sent a long-time sharma project Perfecto mundo (5.15c) becoming the 3rd person to climb the grade and the 2nd person to FA the grade.

Wicked!

Here is him on the route a few weeks ago

​Perfecto Mundo​​​

I can't help but notice that the cheer of encouragement in the 2016 vid of Sharma was the Spanish "venga!" whereas the cheer in this 2018 vid of Megos is the French "allez!" Do you think this was the difference that made the send possible? Could it be that "allez" is the door that will open truly next-level sport climbing? To test, I plan to have my 12yo yell various forms of international encouragement at me tonight while I work my V5 gym project. It's going to be rad. I'll let you know how it goes.

People keep yelling "verga" at me while I climb. I really like the feeling of support. Definitely helps for the send...

Xan Calonne wrote: People keep yelling "verga" at me while I climb. I really like the feeling of support. Definitely helps for the send...

It's not encouragement.

It's a THREAT

Terrible climber. Did you see what he did on the 3rd, 4th and a few other bolts???? He clipped over his head which is the number one thing you should never do.

Wow, pretty wild foot sequence between 1:10-1:30

https://www.climbing.com/news/interview-alex-megos-on-sending-chris-sharmas-perfecto-mundo-5-15c-project/

You all know the difference between “venga” and “verga”, right? One little letter makes all the difference. And, yes, an amazing send!

P.S. Yes, my last name in Spanish has an interesting meaning, too. And I hear it all the time out on the crag: “Joder! Como pica esta vía!” 

ViperScale . wrote: Terrible climber. Did you see what he did on the 3rd, 4th and a few other bolts???? He clipped over his head which is the number one thing you should never do.

uh huhhhh..... whatever you say...

climberish wrote:

uh huhhhh..... whatever you say...

Whoooosh

Xan Calonne wrote: People keep yelling "verga" at me while I climb. I really like the feeling of support. Definitely helps for the send...

Maybe they were yelling "vergo" because that's what your belayer was using- as way to urge you not to fall on a twice-recalled death machine.

Daniel Joder wrote: You all know the difference between “venga” and “verga”, right? One little letter makes all the difference. And, yes, an amazing send!

We were definitely joking.

Very cool to see an uncut video of top level climbing.  

Vaughn wrote: Wow, pretty wild foot sequence between 1:10-1:30

Yeah, it looks like he wants to clip/mini rest from that pocket with his right, but then needs to be in it left handed to move up, so he does some serious tick tacking and almost downclimbing to swap his hands. Super rad.

Garth Sundem wrote: I can't help but notice that the cheer of encouragement in the 2016 vid of Sharma was the Spanish "venga!" whereas the cheer in this 2018 vid of Megos is the French "allez!" Do you think this was the difference that made the send possible? Could it be that "allez" is the door that will open truly next-level sport climbing? To test, I plan to have my 12yo yell various forms of international encouragement at me tonight while I work my V5 gym project. It's going to be rad. I'll let you know how it goes.

Everyone knows your V5 proj is a soft V3.  Stick with "venga" ;)

I’m surprised Adam Ondra hasn’t gotten on it - would be interesting to see how it compares with Silence.  Assuming his proposed grade of 15.d holds, this should theoretically be a touch easier, but both look impossibly hard to me.

amarius wrote: climbing.com/news/interview…

Thanks for posting this interview. I was surprised he said he wasn't interested in climbing in Flatanger since it isn't his style. Although if your goal is to climb hard it makes sense that you would selectively choose routes/areas that are your style. 

John L wrote:

Thanks for posting this interview. I was surprised he said he wasn't interested in climbing in Flatanger since it isn't his style. Although if your goal is to climb hard it makes sense that you would selectively choose routes/areas that are your style. 

its kinda a bummer he's "not" interested... being that hes one of the only ones that could confirm 5.15d

Big B wrote:

its kinda a bummer he's "not" interested... being that hes one of the only ones that could confirm 5.15d

when the sample size is so small. is it even confirmable?

seems like it just comes down to biological differences at that point on how slightly easier/harder something feels when there's only a single digit number of people who've seriously attempted it.

J Squared wrote:

when the sample size is so small. is it even confirmable?

seems like it just comes down to biological differences at that point on how slightly easier/harder something feels when there's only a single digit number of people who've seriously attempted it.

Very true at anything 15+ rated there is no way to really call something an a,b,c, or d. Not enough humans on the planet that can climb it to confirm that small of a difference and it just not being that one climber's body fits it better.