.............

John Barritt wrote:

I would donate but.....

1. I'm not a local
2. I think some of the bolt money may go to the purple sticky.

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/114002745/do-you-get-intoxicated-before-climbing

Just sayin'..... ;)

Oh man, I was just joking about the hippy getting a job but I guess there was some merit to my comment. At least weed is super cheap in OR, at least thats what I hear

A lot of motivation for putting up new routes is personal satisfaction and dare I say it “Legacy “. Real Community service is better served by replacing suspect hardware and anchours, trail building and crag clean up.

To quote me good friend Todd Gordon, “ climbers are like smokers, we will always find money for smokes or in the case of climbers ,bolts” 

I’ve been poor and wealthy with little time, neither situation ever stopped me from putting up new routes, I just love the process of turning a vision into a climb.

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Actually just took down my last havest a little over a month ago.. actually have killer bud for sale if you need.. $100 oz’s of Sour Diesel indoor.. get at me 

God bless America!

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Actually just took down my last havest a little over a month ago.. actually have killer bud for sale if you need.. $100 oz’s of Sour Diesel indoor.. get at me 

Soooo, you're selling hydro for $100 a lid......AND getting people to buy your bolts for you......

Winning....... ;)

As someone who spends a majority of his free time establishing new routes I applaud the effort of crowd funding. It gives me hope. Just this winter I have dropped over 2 grand in hardware that I will never get back but all the folks who climb the routes for the next x amount of years will reap the benefits. If you feel good about supporting your local developers then do it. If not then stop whining. These folks put in a lot of hard work and often ego has little to do with it.

Hey George, I will let the cat out of the bag in the spring or fall. Not a super crag with most of the routes under 60' but fun none the less. I look forward to sharing it once the routes are safe. There will be tons of development left but at least there will be a nice concentration of clean well protected lines to gain interest in the remaining lines. Peace

Ps: we haven't had a chance to red point a single route yet because we are always selfishly bolting :)

Well, I met Chris once climbing on some local choss outside Ashland, OR and he was a solid dude. 

I'll contribute to your campaign Chris as long as when I swing through Smith you take me on a tour of some of your routes! And looks I still have your number from a long time ago!

- Matt 

Chris Hatzai wrote:

And to Gdavis, i wrote you an email trying to reason with you but i guess that didnt get through to you so i guess i reiterate what i wrote to you in email on here, after paging through the 800+ routes of 5.10 or EASIER you have ticked on your account, i suggested your time being better well spent trying to get stronger rather than talking a bunch of shit on the internet. I suggested he try a hang board and not the key board to work out those scrawny little fingers of his.. 

Yeah it was a doucher point to make, pointing out how hard the guy doesnt climb. Sorry, 2 days of internet bashing was all i was able to handle.

If you view my posts as "bashing"  you need thick skin. I had points I discussed with you and I stuck to the points I had made and it appears others share my sentiment.

I'm actually a nice guy, sorry I don't use the email function here. You can email me at gregdotdavis@gmail.com. I am not an anonymous internet troll I am active in the climbing community locally and love to discuss ethics and climbing. I don't take things very personally however so any barbs won't get through ;) I don't ever care about how hard I climb, or how hard others climb, I care about climbing. Honestly, read through my posts in order. I was pretty agreeable, first asking for clarification and then giving my input. I think that my point of view is out-dated, and I've spent a few days thinking about it and I guess I'm just old-school and my ideas are bunk. These things happen, but thats why we have discussions. I still don't think I would ever use gofundme for something not serious but  now I see people are using it for pretty much anything and I hadn't considered that.

GDavis wrote:

Putting up well protected safe routes specifically for the masses - you're even getting paid to do it like a setter ;)

Chris is the only one actively crowd funding at smith for first ascents and the only person I know who has crowd funded for first ascents at smith. There's a lot of new routes going up by other developers in the same old school style they used to be; self funded with legit spacings between bolts when safe. I personally hate seeing new routes go up at Smith that are clip ups. If your to scared to take any risk, maybe the gym is a good spot for you. Definitely not smith rock. It's a joke to take as much of the excitement out of climbing for pleasing the masses. That's why gyms exist. 

 I enjoy Smith Rock for the heady sport climbing crag it is and would like to see "new school ethics" not be brought into every route here. Just make it safe enough to climb.

Well Alan, change comes from within. Sounds like you need to start bolting your own routes or become a land manager.

Alan Collins wrote:

 I enjoy Smith Rock for the heady sport climbing crag it is and would like to see "new school ethics" not be brought into every route here. Just make it safe enough to climb.

"Heady sport climbing"  haha

"Safe enough" There is this far out concept, it's called subjectivity. Unless, of course, you mean that you won't hit the ground at any given point.

And now you can plainly see the joy of funding your own bolting projects where no one really has a say so in what and how you do things. :-D

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Yeah normal Smith Rock bolting style can seem pretty spaced compared to other areas in the country. This is because the majority of those classic routes are on dead vert to slightly slabby walls with seemingly featureless walls. This allows for huge run outs with big exciting, but not dangerous falls. The walls were starting to develop seem to be more featured with more blockier shapes and some of the lines we’ve developed this past year seem to meander from side to side a bit. This is because the rock we're developing is what was past over from prior route developers. Were picking through the scraps and sometimes the line needs to navigate around or sometimes through bad rock. Both of these instances, we are now deeming needing more bolts. We would rather put a bolt every 5’ through a questionable section, as opposed to the “old school” way of thinking of, if there’s big hold or it’s an easy section, run it out no matter what. Considering though how frail freshly cleaned holds can be, id rather slam in another bolt rather than risking a climber’s safety. That’s what we meant by new school bolting. If we can run it out and keep it exciting by Smith Rock standards (CLEAN FALLS) im all about it, but if it isnt safe, no matter if it’s 5.9 section on a 5.12 route, it’s getting a bolt added. 

Please wait for code word parsing to complete...

Hmm...nothing funnier than watching the evolutionary effects of forty years of plastic gym climbing on outdoor climbing on real rock. Now it's only a matter of time before insane "old school" sport routes (now there's an oxymoron) are retrobolted to more thoughtful new school bolt spacing because there's absolutely no reason why outdoor climbing on real rock shouldn't be a more accurate emulation of the perfection that is indoor climbing. Hell, maybe we'll even see a renaissance of bolt-on holds at Smith. And, of course, don't forget: safety is paramount. 

GDavis wrote:

Me too, I would like someone to pay for gas and my burrito as well. I would not say no to any payments for my outdoor activities.

If someone else is riding in your car., maybe they should chip in for gas.

If I clip a bolt, why would I mind chipping in for it if I have some spare cash?  You don't want to? No problem; climb on.

Not my thing, I go to Smith on occasion, but I'm trad climbing when I do.

thomas ellis wrote:

Ps: we haven't had a chance to red point a single route yet because we are always selfishly bolting :)

Sounds like you're more into bolting and 'developing' than climbing if that's the case.

Chris Hatzai wrote:

Hah ok dude... thanks for your great input as you stitch up your gear routes

Works both ways, feel free to lead any of my routes, none of them are stitchable.

Healyje wrote:

Not my thing, I go to Smith on occasion, but I'm trad climbing when I do.

Translation:  I just wanted to offer my derision in any way that I can.  

Damn, you got me!

Healyje wrote:

, feel free to lead any of my routes, none of them are stitchable.

OH SNAP YOU JUST GOT HEALYJE'D RIGHT IN THE YOU-KNOW-WHAT!!!1!